I have an LS180 that has a bucket drift problem. The bucket will drift down when there is a load in the bucket, but when you put down pressure on the bucket and pick the front wheels off the ground the bucket holds fine with no drift at all. Whats the best method to troubleshoot this problem.
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Some leak down is normal for this control valve, but to isolate the problem you can;
One way to tell if the cylinder packing is the problem is to slowly feather the bucket pedal to curl the bucket back. If the bucket drifts down significantly instead of curling back than the packing is probably the problem.
You can also lower the bucket to the ground and find JIC plusgs thatt fit the bucket control lines at the control valve. Remove the lines from the control valve and plug the lines and the valve. Raise the boom. If the bucket drifts down then the problem is in the cylinders, if not the control valve is the problem.
If you determine the control valve is the problem it could be just the normal leakage that the valve has. You can remove the circuit relief vavle, this is the plug or valve sticking out the back in line with the bucket lines. Sometimes the orings go bad. You could also have a bad load check valve. This valve is between the two lines for the bucket and usually has a screw driver slot.
One way to tell if the cylinder packing is the problem is to slowly feather the bucket pedal to curl the bucket back. If the bucket drifts down significantly instead of curling back than the packing is probably the problem.
You can also lower the bucket to the ground and find JIC plusgs thatt fit the bucket control lines at the control valve. Remove the lines from the control valve and plug the lines and the valve. Raise the boom. If the bucket drifts down then the problem is in the cylinders, if not the control valve is the problem.
If you determine the control valve is the problem it could be just the normal leakage that the valve has. You can remove the circuit relief vavle, this is the plug or valve sticking out the back in line with the bucket lines. Sometimes the orings go bad. You could also have a bad load check valve. This valve is between the two lines for the bucket and usually has a screw driver slot.
Thanks for the info. One last question. Can you pull the servos off the pumps without removing the pumps? When you first start the machine up, and at low RPM the machine is very jerky. Once the machine warms up it is much better. I have been told the servos are most likely leaking, causing this problem. THanks!
You can remove the servos without removing the pumps but if you do not tip the cab it could be a pain. New servos are almost as much as a rebuilt pump from NH. You might check your charge pressure first to see if that might be the cause of your problem. The servos operate with charge pressure.
Glad you found your problem. What did you find with the blown fuse?
Mike10, I replaced the fuse, and it never acted up again... My bucket drift problem is back....It worked fine for about 10 hours, now its giving me fits. I pulled the plug at the back above the spool, and the O-ring I have replaced on the plug is fine. I had the cylinders rebuilt, so it shouldnt be that. I swaped a lift check valve with the boom, and that didnt change anything.(I only changed the plunger, can the seat ber changed too?) What else could be causing this???
Locate a cap and plug the same size as the line that attaches to the control valve. Lower the bucket to the ground so it is flat on the ground. Remove the line, which goes to the rod end of the cylinder, from the control valve and use the plug to plug it and the cap to cap the control valve. Raise the boom and see if the bucket leaks off. If it does the problem is in the cylinders, if not the problem is in the control valve.
One exception would be if you have a hydraulic face plate. The bucket can bleed off through this valve.
I have seen cylinders that were supposedly rebuilt but the parts used were not original equipment parts and they failed after only a few hours. The new piston seals are probably different from those that came out with the loader. It is a three piece seal and the two side rings must be installed correctly.
I wish I could edit my posts. You can also cap both bucket cylinders at the rod ends instead of at the control valve.
I didnt have time to mess with it further so I dropped it at a local shop to have them take a look. They said they have seen a fair number of tilt cylinders that have failed after rebuild due to assembly errors... Now onto my L785 that stopped dead on me the other night. I think something left go in the pump. Also have a hard starting LS170....It just never ends...
Treekiller66
Active member
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- Dec 22, 2010
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Heres what ive found out over the years with bucket drift. Its always, for me anyhow has been the cylinders. And ive rebult them myself, never lasted to long. Had the dealer rebuild them, Never lasted to long. Had a shop hone it out rebuild and yet again ,never lasted. So i just buy new cylinders and they lasted as long of any. But that is a weak link on the new hollands. Id say around 2000 hours give or take some ,thats the life of them. I also have a 262c cat and (knock on wood) with 8,000 hours and never had any drift, heck aint even blew a hose. So braggin like thats gonna cause me trouble i just know it. But thats what ive found ove rhte years.
