LS170 Oil Pump shaft installation

[dfarmer]

Do I need NH00117 to install oil pump port block? The new to me engine block had the larger oil pump port block, which I pulled out with a slide hammer. Will be installing #SBA 165296132. Is this port block all the same diameter or is it larger where it locates the depth in the block? Do I need the installation tool or can I lineup the ports and press or drive it in? Thanks for the help, I haven't received the new part yet and just trying to plan ahead. Dale

 

[frogfarmer]

They can be pressed in with extreme care but they must be lined up correctly. Some were installed 180 out from the factory and contacted the crank causing a slight knock so they can be installed incorrectly. You would be better off using the tool if you have any reservations but it is doable. The fact you already removed the part means you cant take any critical measurements for point to point alignment to insure the new/old part installs exactly in the right position.

 

[dfarmer]

They can be pressed in with extreme care but they must be lined up correctly. Some were installed 180 out from the factory and contacted the crank causing a slight knock so they can be installed incorrectly. You would be better off using the tool if you have any reservations but it is doable. The fact you already removed the part means you cant take any critical measurements for point to point alignment to insure the new/old part installs exactly in the right position.

Thanks frogfarmer for the response. I have not removed the pump port with the broken shaft from my original engine block. I pulled the larger pump port from the block I am assembling. Looks like the port stands out .713 on my original. I feel confident about getting the oil ports lined up close enough, but the off-centered shaft concerns me. The gear centers on the aluminum port, but the oil pump cover hole has to line up with the pin in the gear cover? My injectors are at Blue Ridge Diesel, thinking when I pick them up since they are a Perkins dealer hopefully they could drive it in for me. Now I need advice with the Hydro pumps. How do you get that crush-ring on the cam plate control shaft to CRUSH. Seems like it is putting too much stress on the ears of the bearing retainer to crush the ring. Bearing race is free in the cap. Looks like it is going to be too tight when I pull it all the way down. How much bearing preload do we need on the bearings, or how much torque should it take to rotate the shaft? Thanks

 

[frogfarmer]

Thanks frogfarmer for the response. I have not removed the pump port with the broken shaft from my original engine block. I pulled the larger pump port from the block I am assembling. Looks like the port stands out .713 on my original. I feel confident about getting the oil ports lined up close enough, but the off-centered shaft concerns me. The gear centers on the aluminum port, but the oil pump cover hole has to line up with the pin in the gear cover? My injectors are at Blue Ridge Diesel, thinking when I pick them up since they are a Perkins dealer hopefully they could drive it in for me. Now I need advice with the Hydro pumps. How do you get that crush-ring on the cam plate control shaft to CRUSH. Seems like it is putting too much stress on the ears of the bearing retainer to crush the ring. Bearing race is free in the cap. Looks like it is going to be too tight when I pull it all the way down. How much bearing preload do we need on the bearings, or how much torque should it take to rotate the shaft? Thanks

The end plate for the pump has a little wiggle room so it will line up with the spring pin in the front cover. Protrusion of the port block is not of critical concern so long as you can shim the end plate and spring to the factory spec. Because you have a measurement I would try to match it but final setup is done with shims under the spring. On the pumps I don't have the specs at hand but have set up several. The plate should not flop around but should move easily. Actual preload on the bearings is low. I would compare the new preload ring to the old one and see how much difference there is. You may have the wrong part or have it installed incorrectly. What failed that you had to replace the preload ring?

 

[dfarmer]

The end plate for the pump has a little wiggle room so it will line up with the spring pin in the front cover. Protrusion of the port block is not of critical concern so long as you can shim the end plate and spring to the factory spec. Because you have a measurement I would try to match it but final setup is done with shims under the spring. On the pumps I don't have the specs at hand but have set up several. The plate should not flop around but should move easily. Actual preload on the bearings is low. I would compare the new preload ring to the old one and see how much difference there is. You may have the wrong part or have it installed incorrectly. What failed that you had to replace the preload ring?

Frogfarmer: I was replacing the control shaft seal and put a speedi-sleeve where it had worn grooves in the shaft. The new Holland repair manual says that a new crush ring must be installed everytime to set proper preload!!! My common sense kept telling me that if I was putting the same components back the crush ring should set the original preload, just as you have since suggested. Found Eaton repair instructions for pump Model 70160 (similar) it says the only time the crush ring is to be replaced is when parts are replaced, then a shim kit must be used. New Holland has it completely wrong. I don't think the ring can be field installed. Thanks for your help and encouragement. My oil pump shaft has not arrived yet.