L555 V1902 re/re cylinder liners

[chrisepp]

Hello again, As per the previous post (crank won't turn) I pulled the engine and pistons. They need to be replaced. Upon cleaning the cylinders well they all have grooves where the rings were sitting pretty bad so I will need to replace those. Can I pull/replace those with the engine still mostly assembled though? Anyone done this? (head off, oil pan and pistons/rods removed). Or do I really need to tear down totally and take to a machine shop for that? Thanks, Chris

 

[Ivan]

Don't do that until you check them with a bore guage. If they have deep scratched going from top to bottom t hen yes change them. What you are seing are where the ring rusted to the cyk wall and they look bad because the rigs are a different material than the cyl wall. I bet those marks are less than .002 deep and they can be honed out. Anytime mards such as these are there as long as they go around the wall and not up and down it won't matter that much. Use a ball hone on them as a ball home will stay center in the bore. Youwant a nice cross hatch pattern fom top to bottom.

 

[chrisepp]

Don't do that until you check them with a bore guage. If they have deep scratched going from top to bottom t hen yes change them. What you are seing are where the ring rusted to the cyk wall and they look bad because the rigs are a different material than the cyl wall. I bet those marks are less than .002 deep and they can be honed out. Anytime mards such as these are there as long as they go around the wall and not up and down it won't matter that much. Use a ball hone on them as a ball home will stay center in the bore. Youwant a nice cross hatch pattern fom top to bottom.

I got a 240 grit ball hone for doing these. Would that be too fine to hone that out? I'll have to measure carefully and see if that will still be in spec.

 

[chrisepp]

I got a 240 grit ball hone for doing these. Would that be too fine to hone that out? I'll have to measure carefully and see if that will still be in spec.

So I measured this morning, and the grooves are between .006 .010... so they are really quite deep. I think I'm back to liner replacement... question is, can I do it myself with the crank still in there? Or do I have to do a total teardown and take it to a machine shop?

 

[Ivan]

So I measured this morning, and the grooves are between .006 .010... so they are really quite deep. I think I'm back to liner replacement... question is, can I do it myself with the crank still in there? Or do I have to do a total teardown and take it to a machine shop?

Do you mean the overall groove is .010 deep and if that is it means it only .005 on a side. Hone it and see what you have. If you go the sleeve root yiu will have to tear it all the way done I am guessing. It requires a puller and some of them are frozen in. I am not sure about the ones you have. If you do it your self DO NOT BUMP OR DROP the new sleeve and they will distort very easy. I have changed they one time on a big engine but I was in a shop in Germany and had all the tools to do it

 

[Ivan]

So I measured this morning, and the grooves are between .006 .010... so they are really quite deep. I think I'm back to liner replacement... question is, can I do it myself with the crank still in there? Or do I have to do a total teardown and take it to a machine shop?

One other thin I have atractor here that had the grooves in th ewall like yours and I cou;ld not hone them out. I took it in to a shop to be rebored and they run their hone thru it and the groove still there just not as bad. They told me that it would not hurt that much as the piston slides over it fast But they would rebore it to max Dia if I wanted I told them toleave it and it has worked fine every since for almost 25 years. If you feel better pulling the sleeves do it. That is a lot of money to be putting into an older machine