L170 No Cab Heat

[chevblazer18]

I have a L170 skid steer with the heated cab. I dont get any heat in the cab, so i took a look at the water valve to make sure it was opening. The valve is working and also took the heater core off and flushed it. Nothing is plugged that i can find. Also the fuild level is fine. One of the lines will get hot going up to the heater core and the other isnt getting hot. So it feels like its not flowing through. I was wondering if anyone else is having this issue? also the engine is not overheating so its not the water pump. Could it be so much air in the hoses? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Tazza]

You may need a restrictor to make the coolant flow through the heater core, i don't know how its setup in your machine but the Kubota engines have a by-pass hose, you remove it and put the heater core in place of the hose. Coolant constantly flows through this hose. I know other systems you need to restrict the flow so the coolant will take the path of least resistance, your heater core!
I'm sure another member will tell you what needs to be done.
Some heater cores have a one way valve, ensure its not as simple as it being hooked up wrong.

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

Along the left side of the headliner there is a cable that runs from the temperature controller to a valve up inside the heater box behind the cab. The cable may be disconnected or the pivot point on the valve is broken off. There is a louvered cover on the left side of the heater box that you may be able to see/reach the valve from.

 

[chevblazer18]

Along the left side of the headliner there is a cable that runs from the temperature controller to a valve up inside the heater box behind the cab. The cable may be disconnected or the pivot point on the valve is broken off. There is a louvered cover on the left side of the heater box that you may be able to see/reach the valve from.

I have the valve in the heater box disconnected and i am manually opening the valve by hand, since i thought the valve was not working. This is not a aftermarket add one, its the factory cab heat unit. I am thinking the water pump is just not that strong and is going. Also, i did take it in to the shop for the parking brake not working. Does anyone know if they would of had to tip the cab to get at the parking brake and had to disconnect the heater lines going up to the heater core on top? so maybe they would of hooked the lines back up wrong and i will just need to swap the two lines. does anyone know how the lines should be hooked up in what order from the water pump? this is a 2006 L170 unit, so it is pretty new still.

 

[chevblazer18]

I have the valve in the heater box disconnected and i am manually opening the valve by hand, since i thought the valve was not working. This is not a aftermarket add one, its the factory cab heat unit. I am thinking the water pump is just not that strong and is going. Also, i did take it in to the shop for the parking brake not working. Does anyone know if they would of had to tip the cab to get at the parking brake and had to disconnect the heater lines going up to the heater core on top? so maybe they would of hooked the lines back up wrong and i will just need to swap the two lines. does anyone know how the lines should be hooked up in what order from the water pump? this is a 2006 L170 unit, so it is pretty new still.

I finally got alot of the guy that fixed the parking brake and found out that he did disconnect the heater lines going up to the heater. We are thinking there is just air in the lines. Does anyone know how to get the air out of the lines? Any input would be appreciated.

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

I finally got alot of the guy that fixed the parking brake and found out that he did disconnect the heater lines going up to the heater. We are thinking there is just air in the lines. Does anyone know how to get the air out of the lines? Any input would be appreciated.

I don't think the guy was being straight with you on waht he did. A heat excnhager is not something that withsatnd having huge amounts of air in--it shouldn't but it can without any issues other than not transferring heat as well if it did not.
What happens when you remove both lines at the heat exchanger? If you do, attach a piece of garden hose to one inlet and none to other. Blow in the hose and feel the other outlet for any air. You shouldn't feel much backpressure. If you do, there's a blockage. Use compressed air to blow out anything in there. Try testing again.
If all is good, next test the actual heater hoses for restrictions.
How long were the lines to/at the heat excnager left open? Could insects have nestes in there? It happened to my dump truck brake lines.
I know you say you manually operate the heat valve--why? The cable control should operate just fine. I'm thinking internally the valve is doing its job but something outside the valve indicates it's working when it's not.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I don't think the guy was being straight with you on waht he did. A heat excnhager is not something that withsatnd having huge amounts of air in--it shouldn't but it can without any issues other than not transferring heat as well if it did not.
What happens when you remove both lines at the heat exchanger? If you do, attach a piece of garden hose to one inlet and none to other. Blow in the hose and feel the other outlet for any air. You shouldn't feel much backpressure. If you do, there's a blockage. Use compressed air to blow out anything in there. Try testing again.
If all is good, next test the actual heater hoses for restrictions.
How long were the lines to/at the heat excnager left open? Could insects have nestes in there? It happened to my dump truck brake lines.
I know you say you manually operate the heat valve--why? The cable control should operate just fine. I'm thinking internally the valve is doing its job but something outside the valve indicates it's working when it's not.

There is a bleed screw up on the heater core, flat screw driver, you need to let the air out of the system at the high point so it will begin. to circulate again. 5minute job, had to do this when I installed the heater on my 160
Ken

 

[chevblazer18]

There is a bleed screw up on the heater core, flat screw driver, you need to let the air out of the system at the high point so it will begin. to circulate again. 5minute job, had to do this when I installed the heater on my 160
Ken

I finally got the water up to the heater core. I did bleed the air out and also clamped the one hose going to the oil cooler, to force the water up to the heater core. So it was air that was in the line. Thanks again for all the comments and input in fixing my machine.

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

I finally got the water up to the heater core. I did bleed the air out and also clamped the one hose going to the oil cooler, to force the water up to the heater core. So it was air that was in the line. Thanks again for all the comments and input in fixing my machine.

WOW! Up til now I've never been wrong--well, okay ONCE I was mistaken. LOL
Glad to hear you got it fixed.
Now if I could only find a way to keep my arse from talking...(scratching my head).