just bought my first M600

[6brnorma]

Well then, seeing as I'm a quarter inch too narrow. That might be the issue. What's a belt run?

Last one I bought was $110.00

 

[eboucher.6]

Last one I bought was $110.00

Well, I suppose it could be worse. On the bright side. Minus a clutch adjustment needed. I had it out an about today. The hydraulics seem to work strong. And they work smooth. The tractor muffler I put on keeps it somewhat quiet. She still had a random mild backfire. And a surging that happened when it was idling for a while. But smoothed out with added choke. I also learned it dosent turn very easily on dry pavement. All in all I'm pleased with it so far.

 

[eboucher.6]

Well, I suppose it could be worse. On the bright side. Minus a clutch adjustment needed. I had it out an about today. The hydraulics seem to work strong. And they work smooth. The tractor muffler I put on keeps it somewhat quiet. She still had a random mild backfire. And a surging that happened when it was idling for a while. But smoothed out with added choke. I also learned it dosent turn very easily on dry pavement. All in all I'm pleased with it so far.

Status update - I picked up my belt to the tune of 120 dollars. Holy hell was that a pain to install. Everything came out nice, nothing was stuck. But it was a tight fit. The speed control works great, also picked up some steel to make a new bucket.

 

[eboucher.6]

Status update - I picked up my belt to the tune of 120 dollars. Holy hell was that a pain to install. Everything came out nice, nothing was stuck. But it was a tight fit. The speed control works great, also picked up some steel to make a new bucket.

status update : the upright supports on the back are in the process of getting welded up, and next on the list is to weld up the patch in the fuel tank. a new bucket is in the works as the first one was in sorry shape. I picked up some stock to machine some new bushings and pins for the whole machine. I figured making custom bushings for everything would be the easiest route to go. my question for the day, the variable sheave has some pretty hefty spacers on it that keep it from closing too much. would it to be far fetched to say cut the spacers down a little to gain some more speed out of it? and by a little I mean turning them down a hair at a time to get a desired speed. thoughts?

 

[alchemysa]

Took me a minute to figure out what you have. You have a set up that I have never worked with……it came on a few 600-610…..has the stationary mounted variable speed sheave rather then the 'roto-swivel' assembly. I got one once with a "basket-case" bobcat I bought but tossed it all and replaced it with the more common assembly. Sorry, I'm not going to be much/any help with this one.

" Took me a minute to figure out what you have. You have a set up that I have never worked with……it came on a few 600-610…..has the stationary mounted variable speed sheave rather then the 'roto-swivel' assembly. "
I also have the 'stationary sheave' as you call it. I haven't had much chance yet to work on my machine yet but I've been all over the parts manual and can see 'variable speed circuitry' with a roto swivel thingy. Well I dont have that, and I guess i dont have a variable speed valve either.
So, what does this roto swivel gizmo do and what am I missing out on by not having one?

 

[eboucher.6]

" Took me a minute to figure out what you have. You have a set up that I have never worked with……it came on a few 600-610…..has the stationary mounted variable speed sheave rather then the 'roto-swivel' assembly. "
I also have the 'stationary sheave' as you call it. I haven't had much chance yet to work on my machine yet but I've been all over the parts manual and can see 'variable speed circuitry' with a roto swivel thingy. Well I dont have that, and I guess i dont have a variable speed valve either.
So, what does this roto swivel gizmo do and what am I missing out on by not having one?

I think you mis understood what I was saying. where the roto swivel attaches to the machine. there are 2 tabs on the machine it bolts to. so you put the outer half of the sheave on, ( drive sheave) followed by the roto swivel cylinder. that whole unit bolts down to the side of the machine. where it bolts to the machine I have two spacers that are roughly 3/4 of an inch. the manual states to make sure to install any spacers that were removed during belt replacement. my question is, can I shorten these spacers with out causing any issues. it would essentially just make the belt ride higher on the drive sheave and force it further into the driven sheave giving me slightly less torque at low range and more speed in high. does anyone have any measurement on the thickness of their spacers? ill will provide picture when I can.

 

[eboucher.6]

I think you mis understood what I was saying. where the roto swivel attaches to the machine. there are 2 tabs on the machine it bolts to. so you put the outer half of the sheave on, ( drive sheave) followed by the roto swivel cylinder. that whole unit bolts down to the side of the machine. where it bolts to the machine I have two spacers that are roughly 3/4 of an inch. the manual states to make sure to install any spacers that were removed during belt replacement. my question is, can I shorten these spacers with out causing any issues. it would essentially just make the belt ride higher on the drive sheave and force it further into the driven sheave giving me slightly less torque at low range and more speed in high. does anyone have any measurement on the thickness of their spacers? ill will provide picture when I can.

Hi guys, I am happy to say that the machine is up and running. last weekend I ended up moving 23 tons of crushed blue stone with her is she worked well. there are a few issues that need attention though. one being there is a little bit of cylinder drift, but I am almost positive I nicked a seal when I installed them... the second issue being the right side clutches are not as responsive as the left side. i adjusted them but they still seem off. they will bite and hold but you really need to lean on the stick. when i removed the clutch covers they all had il in them except the rear right hand one, ( as you sit in the seat, the right side forward clutch.) as 3 have oil in them and this one does not, is it possible it is not getting oiled? any thoughts? also, when and if it comes to a full clutch replacement, is it just the material that is between the two clutch plates that is replaced or is it all of the components?

 

[6brnorma]

Hi guys, I am happy to say that the machine is up and running. last weekend I ended up moving 23 tons of crushed blue stone with her is she worked well. there are a few issues that need attention though. one being there is a little bit of cylinder drift, but I am almost positive I nicked a seal when I installed them... the second issue being the right side clutches are not as responsive as the left side. i adjusted them but they still seem off. they will bite and hold but you really need to lean on the stick. when i removed the clutch covers they all had il in them except the rear right hand one, ( as you sit in the seat, the right side forward clutch.) as 3 have oil in them and this one does not, is it possible it is not getting oiled? any thoughts? also, when and if it comes to a full clutch replacement, is it just the material that is between the two clutch plates that is replaced or is it all of the components?

Hopefully it is only the clutch linings (material between the plates)…….but honestly if you are really having to crank on the handles to get a response you may have already been metal to metal and will likely have bearings and clutch plate damage as well. Hope not!……..don't wait to look into that……it doesn't get better.

 

[eboucher.6]

Hopefully it is only the clutch linings (material between the plates)…….but honestly if you are really having to crank on the handles to get a response you may have already been metal to metal and will likely have bearings and clutch plate damage as well. Hope not!……..don't wait to look into that……it doesn't get better.

im sure it can be a worse job that what I have done already, but how much of a pain is the clutch replacement? is it a simple disassembly? also, any comment on the oil being found in 3 of the 4 caps? is that a sign 1 is not being oiled? possibly a blocked line. and I should have not worded it that way, it is responsive. but the left site grabs nice and hold strong. right right side feels like a weak clutch.

 

[6brnorma]

im sure it can be a worse job that what I have done already, but how much of a pain is the clutch replacement? is it a simple disassembly? also, any comment on the oil being found in 3 of the 4 caps? is that a sign 1 is not being oiled? possibly a blocked line. and I should have not worded it that way, it is responsive. but the left site grabs nice and hold strong. right right side feels like a weak clutch.

Oil in the cups is comforting to see but certainly not necessary……when you finish work on the clutches, start it up and visually insure each spindle is oiling correctly prior to replacing the panel. Clutch work is very easy……pull two tires, two caps, inspection panel and primary drive chain……you're there. I have too pull tires because we use the largest tire that will fit on the machine.