as its listed in their parts catalog, under tilt cylinders. 2999 and up/ and down, 4000... ect what are these 5 digits, the first or last 5 of my serial?
when a forum is more helpful that the official dealer...It would be the last 5 digits of your S/N.
...and your welcome....
Cheers - SR
so im headed to the dealer again, this time with blown up diagrams and parts lists in had, if all goes well, hopefully Monday ill have a functioning machine. ( I use the word functioning loosely)
Depends on what you're picking up, but…….dealerships have VERY few parts for the M-600 series in stock….most need to be ordered.
Kinda looks like straight coolant could have started to attack the aluminum, especially since it only got to one area. If the whole area was that way, then something could have been flying around in there; such as a spark plug electrode, or something similar to that.
VH4D is an air cooled engine……….
So you mean my hope for cab heat is gone.... damnit
Sorry, at first glance, it looks similar to how coolant can corrode aluminum if n a high enough concentration level. The head can be reconditioned with soda-blasting, though. Such an interesting picture, though.
lift and tilt cylinder seal sets are on order, should be here Monday the latest. I also pulled out the control valves last night to get ready for that rebuild. hopefully those seals will be in by next Friday. I would also like to add, the part number for the lift and tilt cylinders has changed again from what is listed, and they want $54-$56 per seal kit... but, I managed to find them for 20$ a kit on various sites. the laundry list of things is coming to and end. after those items are rebuilt we are down to new hoses, a seat, and one new tire.
This has been a fantastic thread and applaud you on your efforts to bring this M600 back to life. I have both a M500 and a M610 so understand both the challenges and rewards of working on the belt-driven skid steers. I apologize for joining the discussion so late but had not been able to get on this site for about a month. I am in the same boat as you were concerning my fuel supply- I suspect that my fuel pickup tube is broken or clogged because I can also run my machine with an external tank, and have also contemplated once I fixed that to go to an electric fuel pump. I would really appreciate some additional detail/photos on how and where you cut the hole in the tank/frame wall, how you addressed purging vapors during cutting, how you cleaned the tank, how you plumbed the pickup tube, and where you mounted the electric fuel pump. Also I recently started parting out my M500 for another forum member who restored his M500 so would consider pulling additional parts off as needed- the engine is a Koehler so wouldn't help you but my understanding is that the M500, M600 and early M610 have a number of interchangeable parts otherwise. Again, great thread!
i will see if i can pull some better pictures tomorrow of what i have so far, as far as the pick up tube, i have yet to fabricate it but here is the general idea: i am going to drill a hole in the top of the tank, above where the stock pick up is and fit it with a half inch pipe plug. that pipe plug will be drilled and threaded to accept a compression fitting on both sides. by doing this i will be able to thread a length of brake line on one side of the pipe plug. the top of the gas tank will be threaded to accept the plug. this will provide me with a brand new pick up that is removable just in case i cant get all of the rust and junk out of the tank and it gets clogged. the other side of the plug will have a 90 degree pipe fitting with a hose barb that will go to the electric fuel pump that is currently installed.
Sounds like a good plan to me.
I take my seals to the local hydraulic seal shop, they used to be around $25 a set, but have gone up a little more.
my seal kits came in Thursday and Friday. the inner seal on the gland end was a pain on the first one until I figured out a good way to install them, after that it was cake for the other three. the only oring I had an issue with was the hard plastic outer ring on the rod end. I managed to get them on but it wasn't with out a fight. and advice on these seals for the next go around?
Friend of mine drops them in fairly hot water? Then lubes them with hydro oil? I'm not a hydraulics expert but it works for me.
You're talking about the piston seal?
control valves have been re sealed and installed back in the machine. I now have to find a replacement hose for the suction side of the tank to the filter and I should be all set to start it back up again and check for leaks. after this, its a matter of getting new hoses made up, buying a seat and an inner tune for one tire, and putting the alternator back in.
So I have hit a wall. I'm in the process of trying to get the hydraulic filter off and I am just rounding the 1 inch square at the end of the canister. Am I missing something ? Should I attempt to use a chain wrench ? Any suggestions as I'd rather not break something
Sounds like it has been on there a long time. I've had a couple that way. You can use a chain wrench….use it near the end where there is more strength. I use a "strap" wrench as it doesn't damage the canister. Be sure to use some "anti-seize" when you reassemble.
