Sorry…..that wasn't a very complete response. The canister can spin independent of the pipe inside of it, so you still must have a wrench on the square/hex portion to loosen it……that part MUST break free to remove the filter. I had my son run the 'strap' wrench while I used a monster pipe wrench to break one free……..they can be a tough nut.
alright, That's The Info I needed. I was not sure if tell end piece spun separately from the canister. And yes she's been sitting for near 12 years
Hi All, I need some advise. I rebuild all the cylinders and I put new seals on the control valves. everything seemed to go ok. I replaced the mail suction feed line to the filter, again, all went well. I fired up the machine and watched it pull oil through the new hose ( I replaced it with a industrial clear hose). here's where I need help. I know the pump is working at least a little as it drew in fresh oil. when I go to use the speed adjustment it just wines, doesn't mater what direction you push it in. it dosent sound like its coming from the pump though. is it possible its just bleeding out air and that's what im hearing? as a side note, I don't see the sheave move at all. is there a way to test to see if its stuck? any help would be appreciated.
You mentioned before that your machine has not been functioning in quite some time………my guess is the variable speed valve needs to be removed and rebuilt. Sounds like something you are capable of doing rather easily. It is a PITA to remove this valve……held on by only three nuts but one for sure requires 'crows feet' and nimble fingers to get to.
One more thing…….the hydraulics guys on here will need to jump in. You mentioned that you used clear tube for your suction tube to the hydraulic reservoir. I once used a tube that was not intended for 'hydraulic suction' line in that specific spot and it failed on me in rather short order. Hope you did not make my same mistake.
when you say the variable speed valve, are you speaking of the control valve? or do you mean the hydraulic actuator that the sheave is attached to? as far as the clear tubing is concerned, what type did you use that failed? the tubing I replaced it with is defined in the link as being chemical resistant and it is a fairly heavy wall tubing. thoughts?http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25114&catid=736
and to clarify furthermore, by the variable speed sheave, are we talking about the one with the big spring on it, or the one attached to the motor?
The valve is mounted on the side wall to your left as you set in the machine with the handle to change the speed. Parts manual refers to it as the "variable speed valve". The sheave you need to look at is the one mounted on the jackshaft and has the large spring. Manual refers to it as the "Driven Sheave" The tubing is where we need someone with hydraulics experience. I just know that when I had the problem the man at the hydraulics shop told me that I had used hose that was not designed for hydraulic fluid and that had caused premature failure of the hose.
Hello, Following your thread closely as I am also a new owner of a M 610. I'm just getting started on mine but glad to see folks here are willing to help!
Good luck with your machine.
So, here's a really random question.. does anyone have the dimensions for the main drive belt on the 600? Looking at the machine today it looking like the sheave is actually maxed out as far as it will close. But the best it still at the bottom. Anyone who can provide a width and length would be appreciatedHello, Following your thread closely as I am also a new owner of a M 610. I'm just getting started on mine but glad to see folks here are willing to help!
Book I have says PT# 6515271 ….. 1 13/16 X 61.6 Outside Circumference
That can't possibly be correct……let me do some more digging.
Well…….have an older manual that says pt#6515271 is 1 13/16 X 62 1/2 and also a pt#6504510 at 1 13/16 X 58 1/2 for even older serial number 444s and 500s. Both say to replace the belt if it wears to 1 11/16 or less. I can usually read the part number on my belts so my advice would be to verify the part number (6515271 in your case) insure it is at least 1 11/16 wide and you should be good. If it is bottomed out, all operators manuals suggest bumping up the variable speed sheave to take the slack out for operation.
how does one " bump up" the sheave? i havent delved into the witchcraft that is that part of the machine yet...
If at it's slowest speed, the belt does not make enough contact to drive the machine, you should "bump up" (or slightly close the variable speed sheave) to take out the slack so you can operate the bobcat.
Alright, so here's the deal. I have the control valve for the speed. It feeds into a 4 port ( 2 in 2 out block) and had one hose going from that block to the sheave. I removed the hose and it had a lot of pressure built up behind it. I can pull and push the sheave in and out a bit by hand. Yet it still won't open and close on its own... thoughts?
Took me a minute to figure out what you have. You have a set up that I have never worked with……it came on a few 600-610…..has the stationary mounted variable speed sheave rather then the 'roto-swivel' assembly. I got one once with a "basket-case" bobcat I bought but tossed it all and replaced it with the more common assembly. Sorry, I'm not going to be much/any help with this one.
I'll take pictures of what I have. And if you could post a pic of the root swivel devil magic I'd appreciate it. I also think the belt is the issue. I measured it at an inch an 9. I know people stated it's suposedly to be a minimum of an inch and 11, but what's it supposed to be new?
1 13/16
Well then, seeing as I'm a quarter inch too narrow. That might be the issue. What's a belt run?
