This is my first post on this site, I have done my research but still cant really get a definite answer on it so I will ask here. I just recently got a 03 New Holland LS180 and popped a hose, and lost all my hydro fluid. So I drained the rest of the system, my question is; is it ok to run ISO AW32 in this thing? I live up in Canada and the thing is operated in about -13F to 85F. I have about 5 hours on the machine with the ISO AW32 in it and seems to be working great. Any advise is greatly apreciated.
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I believe you posted this in the Bobcat forum, but I happen to have quite a bit of experience with NH's and SSL's in general, so I thought I'd respond. Of course your operator's manual is the most for sure place to get this info, but we all know they don't always give you too many options. There are so many oils out there and different variables that it is easy to be conservative in recommendations in this area. In general if you use a clean, good quality (doesn't have to be the most expensive), petroleum based oil in this machine you are most of the way there. I don't think this machine was ready for bio oils, but even they would work fairly well and only shorten the life of components (how much depends on many variables). ISO 32 is a bit lower viscosity (thinner) than most hydraulic systems like your SSL would like to see ideally, but given that you are not operating in excessively hot ambient temperatures this should not be a big deal and will actually be better for those -15°F days. One way to make sure is to watch the hyd temp (easy to do on the NH's as I remember) while working the machine hard for an extended period WITHOUT STOPPING (~ 1 hour will typically do it). Doing this on a hot day will give you the best confidence. Ideally the temp will rise for a while and then level off no matter how long you continue to run it. If it keeps rising seemingly for ever, you could have an issue. I doubt this will be the case. You will probably level off in the 170-180°F range. Of course there is a warning system that will warn you if you get over a certain temp (not sure what this is se at on NH's) and if you get this then you definitely have an issue. Again, probably not the case. I imagine you are safe in your situation especially if you're not running the machine too hard (like most operators). I would tend to recommend ISO 46 or SAE 10W-30 (engine oil) in most cases to be even safer. I wouldn't go draining out your new oil though. Hope this helps.
I must note one other point.... I'm assuming your machine doesn't have a tonne of hours on it given its age. If you get up over 2000 hours or so it is probably best to start erroring on the side of a little thicker oil (ISO 46 or even 68). Maybe this is something to consider at your next oil change.
Thanks for the great replies, I guess I will run this oil for a bit then like you said go to a little thicker oil. Wiered thing is my hydraulic temp never changes from cold, could this be a bad sensor?
Oh one other thing, the system is still slowly bleeding itself, is it ok to top off the aw32 with aw68? to get it a little thicker?
If you use the same type of oil other than the viscosity, there shouldn't be any real problem with mixing the viscosities and this will essentially give you most of the effects of thicker oil. I was thinking these NH's had an actual temp read-out if you select the hydraulic temp in the cluster. However it's been a while since I was around these machines and it may have changed or escaped my memory. It is quite possible that if you don't run the machine too hard, everything is working, but you never make it past the minimum temperature.... If you're only working with a bucket and in short bursts this is quite possible. Running some high demand attachments (flail mower, trencher, cold planer...etc). or roading continuously for a long time will be the main ways you will get a machine like this to really generate some hydraulic heat. Usually for the average user the cooling systems of these machines are rather over sized. It could be interesting to look in the manual and see what "cold" means.... If this means below 100°F, then my comments are probably out of line.
Thanks again for another very informative post. I will buy the same brand oil just aw68 and top it off. According to the manual, the gauge will read cold until it reaches a certain temp (still neeed to find out what that is) then start showing the actual temp reading.
I had the cold reading on my LX885. The temp sensor is in the tank adjacent to the rh drive levers and the linkage pulled the wire off since it is built too tight. I got the wiring baack on but the lever now contacts bare wire and triggers the overheat warning when the drive lever is fully in reverse. Don't know if the newer machine is built the same.
Earthwerks Unlimited
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You should be using 10W-30 motor oil for the hydraulics according to the owners manual. The reason for this is better rust prevention and better resistance to foaming.
skidsteer.ca
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My 160 often show cold in the winter, even plowing snow after coming from a heated shop.
I have a hard time getting it up to 140 even mowing brush in the summer. I for get what temp the cold reading turns to a actual temp, but that sounds normal. It should go to a degree reading after 30 min or moderate work.
Ken
