HL 2500 saved from junk yard - now need parts

[M1782t]

Newbie here, I have never worked on one, but couldn't let the metal monkeys cut it up. The final drives on the right side are pretty bad shape. I can get bearings, build up and turn the shafts back to original dimensions to fit the bearings. The splines are another matter, they are down to 1.343 OD (should be 1.375), the sprockets have spline collers welded (poorly) to them which are even worse. Gehl dealer says no parts available, so contemplating turning the splines to 1.125, put in a keyway and getting smooth bore sprockets and broaching keyways. This would give a shoulder to torque the sprockets to which would stop the sprockets from wandering and the bearing adjustment would be like an old JD with shims. Any one else had to cross this bridge? Also these right side axle housings are 3 5/16 OD on the inboard side and they have grease fittings on the outside. The left side axle housings are 3 11/16 OD and have no grease fittings. Which ones are right and are there later models still available that interchange? thanks.

 

[Tazza]

I like your broaching idea, but how hard is the sprocket? if it's really hard, you may have fun broaching it......
Gotta take pictures of this.
I'm with you on not wanting to see it go for scrap, everything can be repaired, it just depends if it is cost effective. As you sound to have the gear at hand to machine it, it just may live again!

 

[Grzes]

This is a tough call. Sometimes getting a user or part manual for older models is difficult if not impossible, not to mention parts. As far as changing from spline to keyway, it might work, but I wouldn't expect it to last as long as the spline would. In general, the spline system (even though the splines are smaller comparing to a keyway) provides better and tighter fit than the keyway and in general lasts longer . Being an engineer with some mechanical engineering background, I can only say that if it was originally designed for a spline, there was definitely a reason behind that. The driving system gets some significant stresses. Look at the size of the chain in the chain case and you'll figure that out. It might be the case that you will spend time and money on that modification, and it won't last too long. Couple years ago we bought a used farm lawn mower. The cutting disc shafts had keyways. We rebuilt them with making sure everything was tight (I mean man tight...). After two seasons of mowing about 100 acres the keys were close to be shut. We finally sold that mower and acquired another one, with the splines this time. It lasts until today and it doesn't show any wear and tear. Going back to the shop: I would probably try to find a spline collet (maybe MaccMaster, Grainger) and machine the shaft to its dimensions. You may need to harden a bit the materials (after machining of course) to "increase" the grade of your parts. It is all doable and sounds like you have right machines and skills. It will take slightly more time but might be worthwhile at the end of the day. Anyway, kudos to you for determination. Don't disappear and keep us posted with the outcome.

 

[golfaddict]

This is a tough call. Sometimes getting a user or part manual for older models is difficult if not impossible, not to mention parts. As far as changing from spline to keyway, it might work, but I wouldn't expect it to last as long as the spline would. In general, the spline system (even though the splines are smaller comparing to a keyway) provides better and tighter fit than the keyway and in general lasts longer . Being an engineer with some mechanical engineering background, I can only say that if it was originally designed for a spline, there was definitely a reason behind that. The driving system gets some significant stresses. Look at the size of the chain in the chain case and you'll figure that out. It might be the case that you will spend time and money on that modification, and it won't last too long. Couple years ago we bought a used farm lawn mower. The cutting disc shafts had keyways. We rebuilt them with making sure everything was tight (I mean man tight...). After two seasons of mowing about 100 acres the keys were close to be shut. We finally sold that mower and acquired another one, with the splines this time. It lasts until today and it doesn't show any wear and tear. Going back to the shop: I would probably try to find a spline collet (maybe MaccMaster, Grainger) and machine the shaft to its dimensions. You may need to harden a bit the materials (after machining of course) to "increase" the grade of your parts. It is all doable and sounds like you have right machines and skills. It will take slightly more time but might be worthwhile at the end of the day. Anyway, kudos to you for determination. Don't disappear and keep us posted with the outcome.

www.hawkinsequipment.com has a PDF of the parts manual for the 2500. I replaced the engine in mine last summer with the 24HP Honda kit. It works good but I haven't got a reliable throttle figured out yet. I'm trying to see what I can do about my leaking hydro-motors also. Parts are difficult to find.

 

[M1782t]

So far no luck in finding any info about my machine, the junk yard paid cash and no record of the previous owner, so I have to assume that it was junked because the cost of repairs exceeded the worth of it, so I'm proceeding as cheaply as possible. I got the solid gold carb gasket set from Cummins and after going through the carb and straightening out the messed up wiring, the engine runs suprisingly good, however the hydraulic pump sounds pretty bad. The drives seem to work ok however severly out of adjustment do to the linkages being bent really bad. You never know what to expect from a junk yard escapee. The spray metal machine has been out of town on a job so haven't gotten anywhere on the axles yet. I have really wondered why they would use a 21 spline axle, when that is a high speed spline and at top speed the axles will only do about 100 rpm. Also I've worked on a lot of old cats and a single key on the sprockets was the norm and never seen one gone bad. So I have come to the conclusion that the spline has nothing to do with power transmission, rather that it makes the axle/hub/sprocket servicable, i.e. it will come apart easy. Once I make it a smooth shaft with a key, it will seize and take a puller to pull the axle out of the sprocket. Since there is no room on the inside, it will need to be pulled from the outside. I've got big engine sleeve pullers that will do that, but thats not the way it would have been manufactured for the average consumer. So I am going to give it a try, Burdens had the sprockets and weld in hubs for $71 including shipping.

 

[Tazza]

So far no luck in finding any info about my machine, the junk yard paid cash and no record of the previous owner, so I have to assume that it was junked because the cost of repairs exceeded the worth of it, so I'm proceeding as cheaply as possible. I got the solid gold carb gasket set from Cummins and after going through the carb and straightening out the messed up wiring, the engine runs suprisingly good, however the hydraulic pump sounds pretty bad. The drives seem to work ok however severly out of adjustment do to the linkages being bent really bad. You never know what to expect from a junk yard escapee. The spray metal machine has been out of town on a job so haven't gotten anywhere on the axles yet. I have really wondered why they would use a 21 spline axle, when that is a high speed spline and at top speed the axles will only do about 100 rpm. Also I've worked on a lot of old cats and a single key on the sprockets was the norm and never seen one gone bad. So I have come to the conclusion that the spline has nothing to do with power transmission, rather that it makes the axle/hub/sprocket servicable, i.e. it will come apart easy. Once I make it a smooth shaft with a key, it will seize and take a puller to pull the axle out of the sprocket. Since there is no room on the inside, it will need to be pulled from the outside. I've got big engine sleeve pullers that will do that, but thats not the way it would have been manufactured for the average consumer. So I am going to give it a try, Burdens had the sprockets and weld in hubs for $71 including shipping.

I think the splines are just to help take the load, the more surface area the longer it will last. If you are using it for home use, i see no reason why keys won't work, for a time at least.
Good plan going as cheaply as you can for now, once you know its going to work out you can spend a bit more to make it last.
I'd like to bet the pumps are a known brand, so parts if needed would still be available.

 

[Gehl2600helper]

I know where this a part manual an then some. I have 2600 I just rebuilt practically. Both hydro rebuilt, both towers new bearing and seals. One tower rebuilt bottom gear and pin. all new fluid, all new tires and rims. I can answer some of your questions.

 

[M1782t]

I know where this a part manual an then some. I have 2600 I just rebuilt practically. Both hydro rebuilt, both towers new bearing and seals. One tower rebuilt bottom gear and pin. all new fluid, all new tires and rims. I can answer some of your questions.

Thanks for the reply, my right side axles were really bad, I ended up making a new one from scratch and spray metaling the other. The Gehl dealers I talked to were of no help, but it would seem to me that axles, hubs, and idlers from newer models or other manufactures that are still available would fit or at least be usable. My left side is in good shape, but they are not the same as the right side, so someone has replaced them already with something else. In another post you said you had a parts machine, how close are you to NW WI?

 

[Gehl2600helper]

Thanks for the reply, my right side axles were really bad, I ended up making a new one from scratch and spray metaling the other. The Gehl dealers I talked to were of no help, but it would seem to me that axles, hubs, and idlers from newer models or other manufactures that are still available would fit or at least be usable. My left side is in good shape, but they are not the same as the right side, so someone has replaced them already with something else. In another post you said you had a parts machine, how close are you to NW WI?

I do have a parts machine. I am located central wisconsin.

 

[Gehl2600helper]

Thanks for the reply, my right side axles were really bad, I ended up making a new one from scratch and spray metaling the other. The Gehl dealers I talked to were of no help, but it would seem to me that axles, hubs, and idlers from newer models or other manufactures that are still available would fit or at least be usable. My left side is in good shape, but they are not the same as the right side, so someone has replaced them already with something else. In another post you said you had a parts machine, how close are you to NW WI?

It is on wausau CL for information.

 

[Gtabbert]

It is on wausau CL for information.

Hi I am from fond du lac Wisconsin name is Greg Tabbert. I am looking for a output shaft part number 600405. Email is [email protected]. Thank you