General hydraulic cylinder question. Bent rod

[TreadLightly]

Seems the most active part of the forum, that's why I've posted here. I've bent my lift rods at near full extension and am wondering if the pistons have hurt the inside walls of the cylinder. Just looking for feedback since I won't be disassembling till tomorrow. I'd post a picture but I don't see here how to do so. band is just about 22°..pretty serious also, does anyone have experience with ordering aftermarket hydraulic assemblies from him Surplus or whatever?

 

[farmshop]

We have bent tilt rams pretty bad and the piston and tube has been ok. As long as it hasn't been run for long period of time after they bent. Only way to be certain is disassemble and inspect. The head is aluminum so the hole could be egged also

 

[rjitreeman0909]

Sounds like you intend to buy replacement cylinders. There is at least one other option. Any well supplied hydraulic shop will have replacement rod stock and the ability to thread the end as well as cut off the pivot bushing end and weld onto the new rod. Have done this on a couple of cylinders. Also have had to go the route of finding a replacement when a severely bent rod split the cast iron end cap. As a result, buying a semi universal replacement cylinder was the only viable option since OEM only sells a complete cylinder with an expects delivery of 8 to 12 weeks at a part cost exceeding $400 plus shipping from England. Still had to cut and weld the pivot bushing as well as the European fittings. Still took 2 weeks to accomplish and develop a new respect for equipment damage risk abatement. Let us know how you proceed.

 

[Tazza]

Sounds like you intend to buy replacement cylinders. There is at least one other option. Any well supplied hydraulic shop will have replacement rod stock and the ability to thread the end as well as cut off the pivot bushing end and weld onto the new rod. Have done this on a couple of cylinders. Also have had to go the route of finding a replacement when a severely bent rod split the cast iron end cap. As a result, buying a semi universal replacement cylinder was the only viable option since OEM only sells a complete cylinder with an expects delivery of 8 to 12 weeks at a part cost exceeding $400 plus shipping from England. Still had to cut and weld the pivot bushing as well as the European fittings. Still took 2 weeks to accomplish and develop a new respect for equipment damage risk abatement. Let us know how you proceed.

I have had bent rods that damaged the gland, but the cylinder was ok. Most of the time the cylinders will be ok, but the gland or piston have been damaged. If you bend the rod, but don't retract it, you can simply replace teh rod and the gland and piston will be good.

 

[JDWY]

I have had bent rods that damaged the gland, but the cylinder was ok. Most of the time the cylinders will be ok, but the gland or piston have been damaged. If you bend the rod, but don't retract it, you can simply replace teh rod and the gland and piston will be good.

Depending on the rod diameter and severity of the bend, we had a high tonnage press at our truck shop and we were able to straighten rods now and then. We padded the contact surfaces so we didn't damage the hard chrome. Point being, you might talk to a few machine shops in your area and see what they say.

 

[Tazza]

Depending on the rod diameter and severity of the bend, we had a high tonnage press at our truck shop and we were able to straighten rods now and then. We padded the contact surfaces so we didn't damage the hard chrome. Point being, you might talk to a few machine shops in your area and see what they say.

This does work too. My dad and I straightened a rod for a crane of his with a hydraulic press and lump of wood to protect the rod. We didn't get it perfect, but we did get it real close and it has been working great for quite a few years without any leaks.

 

[TreadLightly]

Sounds like you intend to buy replacement cylinders. There is at least one other option. Any well supplied hydraulic shop will have replacement rod stock and the ability to thread the end as well as cut off the pivot bushing end and weld onto the new rod. Have done this on a couple of cylinders. Also have had to go the route of finding a replacement when a severely bent rod split the cast iron end cap. As a result, buying a semi universal replacement cylinder was the only viable option since OEM only sells a complete cylinder with an expects delivery of 8 to 12 weeks at a part cost exceeding $400 plus shipping from England. Still had to cut and weld the pivot bushing as well as the European fittings. Still took 2 weeks to accomplish and develop a new respect for equipment damage risk abatement. Let us know how you proceed.

I did buy replacement cylinders because I didn't know what I was gonna have to replace and everything seemed a little seized up. Now I'm wondering what I have to do to bleed the air out of them after the installation I'm not sure how to go about that. Can anybody give me an advice?

 

[Tazza]

I did buy replacement cylinders because I didn't know what I was gonna have to replace and everything seemed a little seized up. Now I'm wondering what I have to do to bleed the air out of them after the installation I'm not sure how to go about that. Can anybody give me an advice?

No bleeding needed, just run it, it will purge on it's own in time.