Gehl HL3000 input shaft Anyone know of used parts?

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XSleeper

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Apr 30, 2014
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So during the cold snap I was clearing the driveway with my newly repowered skidsteer, and the hydraulics simply quit. SUDDENLY. Not good. Worked fine when I took it out of the garage but it didn't like the below 0 temps and quit after about 20 minutes of work. I haven't taken it apart yet, but the input shaft appears to rattle around a little as the engine idles, so it seems likely that f I take it apart I'm going to find that the input shaft and input gear are probably stripped and bearings and seals shot. I'm assuming these parts are non-existant since an internet search turns up nothing except for the 2 bearings. Parts manual: https://midtnequipment.com/content/gehl-parts-manuals/Skid-Loader/previous-models/HL3000-Skid-Loader-Parts-Manual-901939.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjRgPTr2vzuAhVOG80KHXXiCwoQFjAAegQIARAC&usg=AOvVaw3y1e99AiRDydZ3uinclVGS The parts that I suspect of being shot are on page 8 of the parts manual: 603159 (found), 603169 and 603170. Any source for these parts? And a related question, does anyone know of a junked HL3000 that is being parted out?
 

Tazza

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It may be a situation that you need to get in there and see what is damaged and if it can be welded back up. I assume you think the shaft has broken inside the pump? It's possible someone could weld it up and could do the job, but then again, it could break again
You said you re-powered it, did you go a lot over the HP rating with the motor you replaced the old one with?
 
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XSleeper

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Apr 30, 2014
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It may be a situation that you need to get in there and see what is damaged and if it can be welded back up. I assume you think the shaft has broken inside the pump? It's possible someone could weld it up and could do the job, but then again, it could break again
You said you re-powered it, did you go a lot over the HP rating with the motor you replaced the old one with?
I didn't even know it was possible to weld/ repair them? Would i take it to a machinist? Here is a photo of the schematic: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fwk7frmrCk93YNxx7 Yes, repowered it with a similar HP engine. Old Onan NHCV 22 HP -> New Honda GX690 22 HP.
 

Tazza

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I didn't even know it was possible to weld/ repair them? Would i take it to a machinist? Here is a photo of the schematic: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fwk7frmrCk93YNxx7 Yes, repowered it with a similar HP engine. Old Onan NHCV 22 HP -> New Honda GX690 22 HP.
Just about anything can be repaired, it just depends on if the person that looks at it is willing to have a go. The best person to do repairs on stuff like this is the "old timers" They have the knowledge of different ways to get the job done.
That shaft doesn't seem too complex, but sadly to get one custom built will take time, and time = money...
 
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XSleeper

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Just about anything can be repaired, it just depends on if the person that looks at it is willing to have a go. The best person to do repairs on stuff like this is the "old timers" They have the knowledge of different ways to get the job done.
That shaft doesn't seem too complex, but sadly to get one custom built will take time, and time = money...
Hey, I wanted to post back... I finally had time to pull the engine today and it ended up being something simple. The key had wiggled its way out of the driveshaft jaw coupling! So this should have dawned on me when I took it apart the first time: The keyway was loose when I took it apart the first time (when I pulled the old Onan engine to put in the new Honda engine.) But what I didn't think of doing was to replace those Allen set screws. The loose keyway rattling around had flattened the tips of the set screws out so that they weren't putting good pressure on the key and shaft. And I also should have run a tap in and out of the coupler jaw to make sure those threads were clean so that it would be very easy to tighten the set screws. PLUS, I had replaced the rubber Lovejoy L225 spider with a new one that has a hollow center. (The original one had a solid center, which is what prevented the key from completely falling out the last time.) It also explains why the loose key left a dent in the old spider. So mystery solved/disaster averted. Thanks for your help. I think before next winter I will be getting a magnetic heater to slap onto the back door to help keep the hydraulic fluid warm in the winter.
 

Tazza

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Hey, I wanted to post back... I finally had time to pull the engine today and it ended up being something simple. The key had wiggled its way out of the driveshaft jaw coupling! So this should have dawned on me when I took it apart the first time: The keyway was loose when I took it apart the first time (when I pulled the old Onan engine to put in the new Honda engine.) But what I didn't think of doing was to replace those Allen set screws. The loose keyway rattling around had flattened the tips of the set screws out so that they weren't putting good pressure on the key and shaft. And I also should have run a tap in and out of the coupler jaw to make sure those threads were clean so that it would be very easy to tighten the set screws. PLUS, I had replaced the rubber Lovejoy L225 spider with a new one that has a hollow center. (The original one had a solid center, which is what prevented the key from completely falling out the last time.) It also explains why the loose key left a dent in the old spider. So mystery solved/disaster averted. Thanks for your help. I think before next winter I will be getting a magnetic heater to slap onto the back door to help keep the hydraulic fluid warm in the winter.
Glad it was such an easy fix, you said the key was a bit loose, i'd like for it to be tightened up. Has the loose key damaged the key way? It may be a good idea to get the keyway widened a little to make it tight and install a larger key when you get time to do it.
A little extra time spent now, will save possible damage later on.
Enjoy getting some use out of your machine
 
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XSleeper

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Apr 30, 2014
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Glad it was such an easy fix, you said the key was a bit loose, i'd like for it to be tightened up. Has the loose key damaged the key way? It may be a good idea to get the keyway widened a little to make it tight and install a larger key when you get time to do it.
A little extra time spent now, will save possible damage later on.
Enjoy getting some use out of your machine
Only the last 1/8" of the keyway was damaged. The key is 1 1/2" long, so i think it will be okay. With the new set screws and clean threads I'm certain that it is tight this time. Thank you for all your replies!
 

foton

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Mar 1, 2018
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Only the last 1/8" of the keyway was damaged. The key is 1 1/2" long, so i think it will be okay. With the new set screws and clean threads I'm certain that it is tight this time. Thank you for all your replies!
I would recheck the torque on it after you run it a while, if it even a bit loosens up any I would go with some lock-tite.
 
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