Gehl 4625 leak

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jlbart

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I generally try to pump the oil out through the front couplers first, but you will always spill some when you open a system up. Any updates on the fix?
Wonder what could be done to keep moisture and dirt away from the plugs. If it freeze where you are, that wet mud is going to push with a tremendous force and should be cleaned out prior to freeze up. Even just sitting and rusting is not vary good.
Ken
How do you pump oil out through front couplers? I dropped the pump off for an estimate on Monday 4/16/12. At that time, the guy told me it would probably be a week before he could get to it ( had quite a few railroad jacks to overhaul). I called today and he said he'd get to it tomorrow. The reason theere was moisture under the pump is because the previous owner did not take care of it. No reason to have that much dirt/oil/etc build up in the pump area. The bottom plate was bent just enough to scoop up dirt; I've fixed that. I'm in Nebraska, so it definately freezes.
 

Tazza

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How do you pump oil out through front couplers? I dropped the pump off for an estimate on Monday 4/16/12. At that time, the guy told me it would probably be a week before he could get to it ( had quite a few railroad jacks to overhaul). I called today and he said he'd get to it tomorrow. The reason theere was moisture under the pump is because the previous owner did not take care of it. No reason to have that much dirt/oil/etc build up in the pump area. The bottom plate was bent just enough to scoop up dirt; I've fixed that. I'm in Nebraska, so it definately freezes.
What Ken means is to run the machine at idle and use the aux hydraulics to pump the oil out of the system, as much as it can at least. I do the same. Crack a hose to my bucket and put it in a drum and pump the oil out till it spits, turn the machine off.
It won't get it all, but it gets most of it.
 
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jlbart

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What Ken means is to run the machine at idle and use the aux hydraulics to pump the oil out of the system, as much as it can at least. I do the same. Crack a hose to my bucket and put it in a drum and pump the oil out till it spits, turn the machine off.
It won't get it all, but it gets most of it.
In the picture below, bottom part of the knuckle screws into the hydraulic motor; the other goes to a 3/4" hose which connects to the tandem hydraulic pump. I may have a leak from that seal, but I'm not sure, it might be from the 3/4" hose - can't tell. Question is can that black seal be replaced or do I have to replace the whole knuckle? The seal does not want to slip over the threads - it's in it's own channel. Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App
 

Tazza

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In the picture below, bottom part of the knuckle screws into the hydraulic motor; the other goes to a 3/4" hose which connects to the tandem hydraulic pump. I may have a leak from that seal, but I'm not sure, it might be from the 3/4" hose - can't tell. Question is can that black seal be replaced or do I have to replace the whole knuckle? The seal does not want to slip over the threads - it's in it's own channel.
Sure can replace the O ring. It should be round, i believe they are called and ORB fitting, if you take the sample to a seal shop, new ones will be only a few cents each.
 
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jlbart

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Sure can replace the O ring. It should be round, i believe they are called and ORB fitting, if you take the sample to a seal shop, new ones will be only a few cents each.
Well it's done. The local hydraulic shop replaced the o-rings and did a pressure test on the tandem pump. They also drilled out a broken cap screw that broke when I removed the auxilary port (see picture previous post). Everything checked out fine. They charged $200. I was happy to pay it for two reasons. First, I didn't want to try and drill out that broken cap scres and possibly ruin the pump. Second, I wanted a pressure test on the pump. I also replaced the o-rings on the hose fittings. My next step will be to convert from Gehl attach to universal quick attach.
 
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jlbart

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You shouldn't have to bleed it. These systems are not like brakes, air will get out over time. Depending on how airated the oil gets, it may take a few days.
What i do is run it, drive it around lift and tilt avoiding bottoming out the cylinders, shut it down over night. This allows the bubbles in the tank to settls out. Do the same the next day, and the next till it runs well.
There is no avoiding loosing oil, i figure while its pouring out, it will not allow any crud in to cause damage.
Two items learned: First, it took 7 gallons of hydraulic oil to fill the system after changing out the dual tandem pump. I should have just drained the oil - would have saved money and created less of a mess. Second, there were no bleeding problems. I filled the resivour with fluid, started the motor and all worked fine. I did let it idle for a couple minutes.
 

Tazza

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Two items learned: First, it took 7 gallons of hydraulic oil to fill the system after changing out the dual tandem pump. I should have just drained the oil - would have saved money and created less of a mess. Second, there were no bleeding problems. I filled the resivour with fluid, started the motor and all worked fine. I did let it idle for a couple minutes.
The other way of looking at it is you replaced the oil, i'm sure it was needed.
The price seems pretty good. Drilling broken screws isn't too hard if you have a drill press and patience, even better if you have done it before.
With the test, you know that it's all going to be good too.
 
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jlbart

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The other way of looking at it is you replaced the oil, i'm sure it was needed.
The price seems pretty good. Drilling broken screws isn't too hard if you have a drill press and patience, even better if you have done it before.
With the test, you know that it's all going to be good too.
He said he drilled out the screw and put a sleeve like thing in the hold to replace the threads in the pump. Guess that way the new screw is the same size as original. Can't remember what he called the sleeve.
 

Tazza

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He said he drilled out the screw and put a sleeve like thing in the hold to replace the threads in the pump. Guess that way the new screw is the same size as original. Can't remember what he called the sleeve.
Was it a helicoil?
You drill and tap a larger thread, then screw the helicoil in that takes the thread back to the original size. Very simple, but they sure do cost a lot....
 
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jlbart

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Was it a helicoil?
You drill and tap a larger thread, then screw the helicoil in that takes the thread back to the original size. Very simple, but they sure do cost a lot....
Yes, that is what was called. Thanks for spurring my memory. Well, it was included in the $200 cost, so I'm not sure what it cost for just the helicoil. It sounds like a neat idea.
 

Tazza

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Yes, that is what was called. Thanks for spurring my memory. Well, it was included in the $200 cost, so I'm not sure what it cost for just the helicoil. It sounds like a neat idea.
They are expensive if you need to buy the kit, but they would have already had the kit. They are very clever indeed.
 
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