frustrating tire tread

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xtreem3d

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hi guys, why do all the tires i have seen have deep lugs when brand new but say 500 hours in the middle of the tire goes flat w/ still a good 2" or so lug at the edges of the tire? why don't they make the lugs 2 or 3" deep throughout the width of the tires? AND... can i grind out the center portion of my "mclaren" type tires to put deep grooves back into the center of my tires to maximize the use of them before i recap them? if i can what would i use to grind out the rubber fast? thanks, steve
 

Tazza

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Could you be running the pressure too high? Some style tyres will wear like this as thats just how they are made, i have a few that the centre is bald but has heaps of tread on the outsides.
 

dennisinaz

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Could you be running the pressure too high? Some style tyres will wear like this as thats just how they are made, i have a few that the centre is bald but has heaps of tread on the outsides.
I wish I could get 500 hours out of a set of tires! I have tried 3-4 different brands and designs now. The best tires I have found are a knobby/lug tire called Lifemaster. They run around $160 each for 10/ 16.5s I have bought some cheap ones that are
 
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xtreem3d

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I wish I could get 500 hours out of a set of tires! I have tried 3-4 different brands and designs now. The best tires I have found are a knobby/lug tire called Lifemaster. They run around $160 each for 10/ 16.5s I have bought some cheap ones that are
i just used 500 hours as an example ..the tires i'd like to grind on are the solid tires w/ the holes around the bead, i'm not ready to recap them so i am wanting to know if i can cut the tread back into the tire at the center where it wears out first
 
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xtreem3d

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i just used 500 hours as an example ..the tires i'd like to grind on are the solid tires w/ the holes around the bead, i'm not ready to recap them so i am wanting to know if i can cut the tread back into the tire at the center where it wears out first
tazza...that is my main question...why do they make the tires so the center goes bald but not the outside? why not make the tread 3" deep the full width of the tire and is it o.k to cut them deeper?
 

Tazza

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tazza...that is my main question...why do they make the tires so the center goes bald but not the outside? why not make the tread 3" deep the full width of the tire and is it o.k to cut them deeper?
Its crazy i know, it should be even tread.
I honestly wouldn't do it as there won't be a lot of *meat* under there for you to cut before you burst the tyre. There really isn't much below the lugs till you hit the air space and the tyre is no good.
I know on cars tyres in the old days people used to re-groove them to get more life but its now illegal. They simply used a cutting tool like a wood chisel to cut.
Personally for what i use my machine for bald tyres worked as good as nice new ones. I found my self using the tyres to compact soil and bald ones worked better than new ones. I never found a problem with traction either. I'd just keep using them till you see the canvas (if they run that) and as soon as you see that its time to change them as they will go any time.
 

Earthwerks Unlimited

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Can you even retread one of those solid "air" tires? If not, to extend the little life that is left, when running on pavement I like to spread a little dirt or sand on the spot where I usually spin around. It acts as a lubricant under the tires saving fuel and drivetrain wear and tire wear.
 
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xtreem3d

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Can you even retread one of those solid "air" tires? If not, to extend the little life that is left, when running on pavement I like to spread a little dirt or sand on the spot where I usually spin around. It acts as a lubricant under the tires saving fuel and drivetrain wear and tire wear.
yes they are retreadable..about 200.00 per tire..i also spread something on pavement where i constantly turn
 

mclarenusa.com

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Oct 22, 2007
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Hi xtreem3d,
I just wanted to inform you that we now carry a new line of Nu-Airs called the Nu-Air AT (All-Terrain). These tires have different tread design that allows for maximum tread life on concrete / asphalt while providing tractions in dirt and mud. For those that are using the loader for different types of jobs I recommend the Nu-Air ATs whereas for those that are in dirt and mud I would recommend our original Nu-Air tires. Please let me know if you have any questions on these tires.
Thanks,
www.mclarenusa.com
 

Fishfiles

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Hi xtreem3d,
I just wanted to inform you that we now carry a new line of Nu-Airs called the Nu-Air AT (All-Terrain). These tires have different tread design that allows for maximum tread life on concrete / asphalt while providing tractions in dirt and mud. For those that are using the loader for different types of jobs I recommend the Nu-Air ATs whereas for those that are in dirt and mud I would recommend our original Nu-Air tires. Please let me know if you have any questions on these tires.
Thanks,
www.mclarenusa.com
My favorite tire , which is proven to me is the Toby Sexton aircraft recaps , the plys are 28-32 , the side walls are just as thick , they have a tube in them but will hardly even go flat , when you first get them you have to buy the rims as they are split rims which bolt together , once you have the rims the casings arecapable as long as you don't let the threads get exposed , the local shops charge about $125 to cap the 7series style which uses a A-10 Warthog tire , the 8 series go about $155 and use a F-18 tire , the really good thing about this tires is runnng tracks on top of them , as if you do get a flat I can split the rim with the tracks in place and get the tube out make the repair or relace tube and not even distrub the track, on the side the tire they have a warning , only good to 210 mph landings
 

wings5j

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My favorite tire , which is proven to me is the Toby Sexton aircraft recaps , the plys are 28-32 , the side walls are just as thick , they have a tube in them but will hardly even go flat , when you first get them you have to buy the rims as they are split rims which bolt together , once you have the rims the casings arecapable as long as you don't let the threads get exposed , the local shops charge about $125 to cap the 7series style which uses a A-10 Warthog tire , the 8 series go about $155 and use a F-18 tire , the really good thing about this tires is runnng tracks on top of them , as if you do get a flat I can split the rim with the tracks in place and get the tube out make the repair or relace tube and not even distrub the track, on the side the tire they have a warning , only good to 210 mph landings
If you have plenty of material for regrooving, here is what I would suggest. I don't know if it is still common or not, but large truck tires were often sold as regroovable and this was actually indicated on the side wall. The truck tire shops had a special knife. It was electric and heated up. They cut through the tire like a hot knife through butter. I don't recall the cost, but the tire shop could do all four of your tires in just a few minutes. It might at least be worth a few phone calls. One possible issue might be liability but it won't hurt to ask. John
 
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xtreem3d

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If you have plenty of material for regrooving, here is what I would suggest. I don't know if it is still common or not, but large truck tires were often sold as regroovable and this was actually indicated on the side wall. The truck tire shops had a special knife. It was electric and heated up. They cut through the tire like a hot knife through butter. I don't recall the cost, but the tire shop could do all four of your tires in just a few minutes. It might at least be worth a few phone calls. One possible issue might be liability but it won't hurt to ask. John
thanks great idea !! BIGFOOT's shop is close by, i have seen them re-carve their monster tires , so they should know
 

kelly_b

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thanks great idea !! BIGFOOT's shop is close by, i have seen them re-carve their monster tires , so they should know
Regrooving is a great idea. Didn't think of that one. Thanks to the poster that suggested it. :)
 

wings5j

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Is regrooving the same as recapping?
Earthwerks, In the regrooving process, you are basically following your existing tread pattern and cutting the grooves deeper. In the recapping process they replace all of the surface tread with new. Hope that answers your question. John
 

m610

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Let us know what BIGFOOT has to say and how you make out. Thanks, John
It's funny, I have seen skid steers with tires that looked like aircraft tires, used on a machine set up as a forklift for unloading sod. I prefer bald tires for home use, and would always get the old ones from the local nursery that had worn down smooth. The bald tires don't dig in the grass and if you make a tight turn, the roots don't get torn out.
 

Tazza

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It's funny, I have seen skid steers with tires that looked like aircraft tires, used on a machine set up as a forklift for unloading sod. I prefer bald tires for home use, and would always get the old ones from the local nursery that had worn down smooth. The bald tires don't dig in the grass and if you make a tight turn, the roots don't get torn out.
Thats very true, for home use bald are great! If you have clay or any slick when wet soil it makes things interesting. Even full tread on soft slick clay you will slip and slide. For the price, you can't go past 'em.
 

edwardo

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Aug 6, 2007
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Thats very true, for home use bald are great! If you have clay or any slick when wet soil it makes things interesting. Even full tread on soft slick clay you will slip and slide. For the price, you can't go past 'em.
i've used a wood working router to regroove tires before.It worked very well,but the rubber underneath was pretty thin after.
 
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