Error FOA

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robmints

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Hi all. I am getting an FOA error. I am not getting power to the solenoids. I have checked the solenoids and they read 18 ohms. I have good continuity to ground from the black wire. I do not have good continuity on the pk/ltbl wire between the switch and terminal 3 on the eic. it is kind of fuzzy and does not ping the meter. I bought the manual off tradebit and it has wiring diagrams of most of the curcuits but not the boom/bucket solenoids and I do not want to cut all the wrapping off the harness to see where the wire goes. Where does the wire go between the time it leaves the solenoid and gets to the eic? Either the wire is bad (mouse maybe) or I'm losing connection in a switch or relay someplace but I can't find where it goes. I can see that whole section of harness except where it goes behind the back window (took the fender and headliner bracket off) and it all looks perfect. If I run a wire from power to the solenoids everything works perfectly except for the error, and solenoids have been taken out and look fine and function fine.
Many thanks for the help.
 

jerry

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Unplug the seat belt switch at the seat belt and check for power there, put a jumper on the wires to bypass the belt switch . The diagram I have shows the wire going from the solenoids to the hyd solenoid output on the #3 Spot on eic but I know the seatbelt switch and the underseat switch have to be closed to make the circuit to the solenoids. If the underseat switch does not make then the seatbelt does not get power.
 
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robmints

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Unplug the seat belt switch at the seat belt and check for power there, put a jumper on the wires to bypass the belt switch . The diagram I have shows the wire going from the solenoids to the hyd solenoid output on the #3 Spot on eic but I know the seatbelt switch and the underseat switch have to be closed to make the circuit to the solenoids. If the underseat switch does not make then the seatbelt does not get power.
Thanks very much Jerry. I will check those two switches. I did not look to them because all the other interlock stuff worked fine as far as starting the machine and the seat chime when you get up or unlock. But I will check them. and Thank You for checking you diagram. I am also going to remove th rear window so I can see the whole harness. I hate mice. They get in everything. I think they are living off the decon I am feeding them. The only evedence I saw of them in this machine was in the head liner where there was an active nest. But I have looked carefully every place I can see and see no other evidence or damage. The whole harness is in perfect codition and I do not want to cut it to investigate this gremlin. I will run another wire on the outside of the run though if that wire is still a problem. Oh yea.
Do I need to clear the FOA fault for any repair to take effect or will it stop faulting on it's own. Sorry for the dumb question but I've never had a fault before.
Thanks again.
 

jerry

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Thanks very much Jerry. I will check those two switches. I did not look to them because all the other interlock stuff worked fine as far as starting the machine and the seat chime when you get up or unlock. But I will check them. and Thank You for checking you diagram. I am also going to remove th rear window so I can see the whole harness. I hate mice. They get in everything. I think they are living off the decon I am feeding them. The only evedence I saw of them in this machine was in the head liner where there was an active nest. But I have looked carefully every place I can see and see no other evidence or damage. The whole harness is in perfect codition and I do not want to cut it to investigate this gremlin. I will run another wire on the outside of the run though if that wire is still a problem. Oh yea.
Do I need to clear the FOA fault for any repair to take effect or will it stop faulting on it's own. Sorry for the dumb question but I've never had a fault before.
Thanks again.
How old and what size is your machine? I have a feeling it may be more advanced than my 1999. On mine 02 is output circuit to fuel solenoid has shorted or failed. If it will start in the run position I guess the seat /seatbelt switches must be ok. When you had the eic out was there 12v output from the #3 spot to the solenoid wire? The run /service switches do fail too, if there is 12v at the eic output follow that down. Maybe better help will show up here if the thread is kept going.
 

jerry

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How old and what size is your machine? I have a feeling it may be more advanced than my 1999. On mine 02 is output circuit to fuel solenoid has shorted or failed. If it will start in the run position I guess the seat /seatbelt switches must be ok. When you had the eic out was there 12v output from the #3 spot to the solenoid wire? The run /service switches do fail too, if there is 12v at the eic output follow that down. Maybe better help will show up here if the thread is kept going.
Mice are a problem here too, they carry off more than they eat of the decon. I won't say they work but I put two of those electronic mouse repellers in the garage a couple of years ago and I think I have considerably fewer mice there.
 
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robmints

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Mice are a problem here too, they carry off more than they eat of the decon. I won't say they work but I put two of those electronic mouse repellers in the garage a couple of years ago and I think I have considerably fewer mice there.
I never used those repellers because I thought they would drive the dogs nuttier than they are.
It's a 2001 LS170 I'm pretty sure about the year. It is an LS 170 though. It's ser#172869.
I took the pk/ltbl wire loose from the connector to the eic and it does have good continuity to the soleniods, so i'm putting it back together tomorrow afternoon if i don't get rained out. then i'm going to check the seat belt sw and the seat sw and the run service sw and start replacing the cheapest first if i don't find anything wrong. Unless you all point me in another direction. Thanks again for all the help and intrest. I might not be getting anywhere but i feel like i am. Anybody on here sell mail order parts?
 

jerry

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I never used those repellers because I thought they would drive the dogs nuttier than they are.
It's a 2001 LS170 I'm pretty sure about the year. It is an LS 170 though. It's ser#172869.
I took the pk/ltbl wire loose from the connector to the eic and it does have good continuity to the soleniods, so i'm putting it back together tomorrow afternoon if i don't get rained out. then i'm going to check the seat belt sw and the seat sw and the run service sw and start replacing the cheapest first if i don't find anything wrong. Unless you all point me in another direction. Thanks again for all the help and intrest. I might not be getting anywhere but i feel like i am. Anybody on here sell mail order parts?
But is there 12v coming out of the eic to the wire to the solenoids? Do you have the manuals for the machine? I don't think you want to just buy parts as the underseat switch cost me about $24 and the seat belt would have been around $165. Just take your 12v test light and find out where the current stops. Have you run the search on this forum for boom solenoid? There are quite a few posts all the way from a bare wire to bad solenoids. Did it sit for a long time since it was last used? Maybe the solenoids just are stuck. Skidsteerca. posted a link to the service manual a while ago but I can't find it right now. Either he or chips or mllud are pretty up on this problem.
 
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robmints

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But is there 12v coming out of the eic to the wire to the solenoids? Do you have the manuals for the machine? I don't think you want to just buy parts as the underseat switch cost me about $24 and the seat belt would have been around $165. Just take your 12v test light and find out where the current stops. Have you run the search on this forum for boom solenoid? There are quite a few posts all the way from a bare wire to bad solenoids. Did it sit for a long time since it was last used? Maybe the solenoids just are stuck. Skidsteerca. posted a link to the service manual a while ago but I can't find it right now. Either he or chips or mllud are pretty up on this problem.
No when to faults there is not 12v coming out of #3. I bought the $30 tradebit one it is over 1000 pages and as a lot of wiring curcuits but not the one to the boom/bucket. I am going to put a toggle inplace of the seatbelt sw. I did search but was just getting more confused. It sat for about 2 weeks. It does not get used a lot and lives outside. I checked the solenoids with an ohm meter 18 ohms. I took them out, inspected, and checked them for operation. I put them back in and checked them with a 12v wire and they work fine. The capacitor on the back of the eic is not glued down anymore. I'm going to check itand make sure the connections are not cracked and glue it back down to make sure vibration is not doing something funky.
Thanks a lot Jerry, i guess you realize by now you are leading a blind squirrel, i wish you had a better student to work with.
 

jerry

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No when to faults there is not 12v coming out of #3. I bought the $30 tradebit one it is over 1000 pages and as a lot of wiring curcuits but not the one to the boom/bucket. I am going to put a toggle inplace of the seatbelt sw. I did search but was just getting more confused. It sat for about 2 weeks. It does not get used a lot and lives outside. I checked the solenoids with an ohm meter 18 ohms. I took them out, inspected, and checked them for operation. I put them back in and checked them with a 12v wire and they work fine. The capacitor on the back of the eic is not glued down anymore. I'm going to check itand make sure the connections are not cracked and glue it back down to make sure vibration is not doing something funky.
Thanks a lot Jerry, i guess you realize by now you are leading a blind squirrel, i wish you had a better student to work with.
I think in this case it is blind squirrel leading blind squirrel. All I know about these things is what I have picked up here and with problems of my own and I am a slow learner. Check the thread lx665 won't start. It is not the same problem but gives you a idea how the thing works. If your machine will start and the seatbelt light goes off you must be getting 12v to the eic and the seat/seatbelt switches are ok. on the 665 the tan white wire at pin4 delivers 12v to the eic so if it is there and not coming out you may be right in looking at the hyd solenoid output thing at #3. If it is eic problem you could probably run a wire from the seat belt switch to the solenoid so you would still have the safety feature and when ever you buckled the belt the solenoids would release. as it is now you have to turn on the key and buckle the belt to release them, right?
 

jerry

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I think in this case it is blind squirrel leading blind squirrel. All I know about these things is what I have picked up here and with problems of my own and I am a slow learner. Check the thread lx665 won't start. It is not the same problem but gives you a idea how the thing works. If your machine will start and the seatbelt light goes off you must be getting 12v to the eic and the seat/seatbelt switches are ok. on the 665 the tan white wire at pin4 delivers 12v to the eic so if it is there and not coming out you may be right in looking at the hyd solenoid output thing at #3. If it is eic problem you could probably run a wire from the seat belt switch to the solenoid so you would still have the safety feature and when ever you buckled the belt the solenoids would release. as it is now you have to turn on the key and buckle the belt to release them, right?
Excuse me if this is a dumb question but you do know that the service/run switch has to be in run to unlock the hyd solenoids?
 
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robmints

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Excuse me if this is a dumb question but you do know that the service/run switch has to be in run to unlock the hyd solenoids?
Thanks I will re-read that thread. Yes I did see that service would disable the boom/bucket solenoids. I'm going to the dealer in the AM and getting a service sw and a seat sw. I bypassed the seatbelt and put a tiny bit of tape and a cable tie on the capacitor to keep it from vibrating. The 2 switches are $47 but i can only get there on Sat. and I don't want to burn a week in case i might want to try them. I know one thing, Mother Nature is a woman. 6 weeks ago 50" on snow on the ground, day before yesterday 90+, now It's cold and I need to light the stove and don't feel like being outside in the 20mph wind. I'm going to try again tomorrow sometime to play with it. I'm just glad I found a kind, helpful blind squirrel.
 
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robmints

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Thanks I will re-read that thread. Yes I did see that service would disable the boom/bucket solenoids. I'm going to the dealer in the AM and getting a service sw and a seat sw. I bypassed the seatbelt and put a tiny bit of tape and a cable tie on the capacitor to keep it from vibrating. The 2 switches are $47 but i can only get there on Sat. and I don't want to burn a week in case i might want to try them. I know one thing, Mother Nature is a woman. 6 weeks ago 50" on snow on the ground, day before yesterday 90+, now It's cold and I need to light the stove and don't feel like being outside in the 20mph wind. I'm going to try again tomorrow sometime to play with it. I'm just glad I found a kind, helpful blind squirrel.
I replaced the seat sw and run sw and bypassed the seat belt. Had some odd stuff happen so I got a higher amperage (50amp) seat belt sw and used for a couple of minutes and it seemed ok though I heard one tweet but may have just been backup alarm. but did not have much time. I'll use it some more and let you all know.
 

jerry

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I replaced the seat sw and run sw and bypassed the seat belt. Had some odd stuff happen so I got a higher amperage (50amp) seat belt sw and used for a couple of minutes and it seemed ok though I heard one tweet but may have just been backup alarm. but did not have much time. I'll use it some more and let you all know.
You can unplug the seatbelt sw and put a jumper wire on there to bypass it. You got a higher amperage seat belt sw? Do they make different varieties of them? Of all this I guess I would suspect the service/run switch having a loose terminal. Be sure that your auxillary hyd are not engaged as that could cause strange things also and with all that activity in the cab it could have happened. Hope to hear more positive news.
 

jerry

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You can unplug the seatbelt sw and put a jumper wire on there to bypass it. You got a higher amperage seat belt sw? Do they make different varieties of them? Of all this I guess I would suspect the service/run switch having a loose terminal. Be sure that your auxillary hyd are not engaged as that could cause strange things also and with all that activity in the cab it could have happened. Hope to hear more positive news.
Did you buy the seat belt switch? How much and can you return it if you don't need it? That one was really high for mine so I did not get it and in the end did not need it. I just don't see that being bad if the engine will start and run with the service switch in the run position.
 
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robmints

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Did you buy the seat belt switch? How much and can you return it if you don't need it? That one was really high for mine so I did not get it and in the end did not need it. I just don't see that being bad if the engine will start and run with the service switch in the run position.
I did not buy a new seat belt sw, just put a toggle in. The first toggle was 16 amps and the new toggle is 50. I'm not sure if that has made any difference because i'm not back to that yet. The honeydew list has interupted any progess we may have been making. I'll let you know once I can run it a little.
 
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robmints

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I did not buy a new seat belt sw, just put a toggle in. The first toggle was 16 amps and the new toggle is 50. I'm not sure if that has made any difference because i'm not back to that yet. The honeydew list has interupted any progess we may have been making. I'll let you know once I can run it a little.
The FOA is gone, but for the first couple of minutes whenever I touch the upcurl or boom up pedals the seat belt light and the yellow light to the far left lights. Sometimes the pedals lock sometimes they don't. But I just flip my seat belt toggle and all is well. But it is not correct and I would hate to get stuck with the bucket in the ground. Please, any help would be appreciated.
 
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robmints

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The FOA is gone, but for the first couple of minutes whenever I touch the upcurl or boom up pedals the seat belt light and the yellow light to the far left lights. Sometimes the pedals lock sometimes they don't. But I just flip my seat belt toggle and all is well. But it is not correct and I would hate to get stuck with the bucket in the ground. Please, any help would be appreciated.
Well, I think I may have found part of the problem. Only used it for about 10 min but it was light free. You would never guess. While I was fooling around with the foa I was on a diet at the same time. Believe it or not I'm starting to think the 30 lbs was all that was holding my skinny ass in the seat. Man I hope that is all there is to it.
 
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