Do I need a new computer for T200?

[siduramaxde]

My 2002 T200 will not start and I have traced the problem to the fuel solenoid not getting power. The problem started intermittently and has progressed to not working at all which leads me to believe it is the computer. I was thinking it would have been a broken wire but all the wire is confirmed good. I have constant power to the fuel pull relay but I do not get switched power to the relay from the computer. If I use a jumper wire to the relay the solenoid works fine. I tried to bypass the wire from the computer that sends 12v to the fuel pull relay but then the computer won't allow the starter to crank. I have checked and there are no codes. If I remove my computer, can they test it at the dealer? How much is a new computer? Are 863, 873 computers the same as T200 computers?

 

[Tazza]

Start by checking the relay to the pull coil. If you still aren't getting any power there your problem is further back.
If that is the only problem you are having, you can wire the pull coil to your starter motor. When the starter cranks, the pull coil will energize. When it starts and you let the key go, the pull coil will stop and it will be held in place by the hold coil that you have stated works. This is how i wired up my 743s fuel shut off solenoid.

 

[siduramaxde]

Start by checking the relay to the pull coil. If you still aren't getting any power there your problem is further back.
If that is the only problem you are having, you can wire the pull coil to your starter motor. When the starter cranks, the pull coil will energize. When it starts and you let the key go, the pull coil will stop and it will be held in place by the hold coil that you have stated works. This is how i wired up my 743s fuel shut off solenoid.

The relay is good. There are four wires to the relay. A constant hot (12v), a ground, a wire that gets 12v when the key is on, and the wire that goes to the fuel solenoid. All the wires are good with no shorts as confirmed with a ohm meter. The problem is that the wire that should get 12v with the key on is not getting 12v. This wire can be traced all the way to the computer. the computer is not putting out any voltage to this wire, thus the relay will not switch to allow the fuel solenoid to operate. Bypassing the wire does not work because somehow the computer knows when this wire is disconnected and will not allow the starter to crank. On the Deutz motor the fuel pull solenoid must be energized any time the engine is running. I am not aware of a hold coil. Wiring it up to the starter will not work.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

The relay is good. There are four wires to the relay. A constant hot (12v), a ground, a wire that gets 12v when the key is on, and the wire that goes to the fuel solenoid. All the wires are good with no shorts as confirmed with a ohm meter. The problem is that the wire that should get 12v with the key on is not getting 12v. This wire can be traced all the way to the computer. the computer is not putting out any voltage to this wire, thus the relay will not switch to allow the fuel solenoid to operate. Bypassing the wire does not work because somehow the computer knows when this wire is disconnected and will not allow the starter to crank. On the Deutz motor the fuel pull solenoid must be energized any time the engine is running. I am not aware of a hold coil. Wiring it up to the starter will not work.

in the automotive world they call a tap test. in the heavey equip world its the hammer test. smack the outside of unit wher controoler mounts, / take a look at controller if its non potted(snap together lids) instead of heat sink material. if non pot probally need new one, go ahead an open it takes about 5 screwdrivers if you see a milky white substance, built up, youre probally going to need new, /dealer install only needs programed/ once you start bypassing it never ends. do it once do it right ,buy the what codes? are active/

 

[siduramaxde]

in the automotive world they call a tap test. in the heavey equip world its the hammer test. smack the outside of unit wher controoler mounts, / take a look at controller if its non potted(snap together lids) instead of heat sink material. if non pot probally need new one, go ahead an open it takes about 5 screwdrivers if you see a milky white substance, built up, youre probally going to need new, /dealer install only needs programed/ once you start bypassing it never ends. do it once do it right ,buy the what codes? are active/

Any idea on how much a new computer is?

 

[siduramaxde]

Any idea on how much a new computer is?

and I have already had the computer apart hoping to find a bad solder joint but no luck. My computer snaps apart and then the circuit board looks like they smeared clear silicone on it. I can see it now....the computer is going to cost $1000.00 USD and the only thing wrong with the old one is probably a resistor or diode that cost $0.10 at radio shack. That crap makes me mad as heck.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

and I have already had the computer apart hoping to find a bad solder joint but no luck. My computer snaps apart and then the circuit board looks like they smeared clear silicone on it. I can see it now....the computer is going to cost $1000.00 USD and the only thing wrong with the old one is probably a resistor or diode that cost $0.10 at radio shack. That crap makes me mad as heck.

i got no answer other than install new. will last life of unit, i feel it man. was i correct in the milky white? and yes it has be programmed. one thing to consider before letting this ruin youre day is has she paid her way? has incoome exceeded output, tough row to hoe but that is the reality, the reason i knew it snapped apart is i thought about reparing to .no joy. its called parristic whatever in geek talk, i have found no fix ,closer inspection will reveal threads under silicon shortin. and to all please keep in mind that my shared experiances could get me in deep kimchi, im glad to share but in leagleisea this is just an opinion and any or no means does it reflect on my employer or afflitetes. doubt that covers my butt but its out there.

 

[Tazza]

i got no answer other than install new. will last life of unit, i feel it man. was i correct in the milky white? and yes it has be programmed. one thing to consider before letting this ruin youre day is has she paid her way? has incoome exceeded output, tough row to hoe but that is the reality, the reason i knew it snapped apart is i thought about reparing to .no joy. its called parristic whatever in geek talk, i have found no fix ,closer inspection will reveal threads under silicon shortin. and to all please keep in mind that my shared experiances could get me in deep kimchi, im glad to share but in leagleisea this is just an opinion and any or no means does it reflect on my employer or afflitetes. doubt that covers my butt but its out there.

If everything else works, hook the solenoid up as i said earlier. It will still shut down when you turn the key off.
That clear varnish is to keep out moisture from the 'extreme' conditions the machines face. It does pretty well, but when something is wrong and you need to replace comonents, its a pain in the butt.

 

[Fishfiles]

If everything else works, hook the solenoid up as i said earlier. It will still shut down when you turn the key off.
That clear varnish is to keep out moisture from the 'extreme' conditions the machines face. It does pretty well, but when something is wrong and you need to replace comonents, its a pain in the butt.

the early model machine where wired just as Tazza said to the starter lug which goes to the armature , the purpose of the pull section of the run kill solinoid is to hold the arm in the run postion till engine oil pressure gets up , then the hold wire gets hot and it holds the arm in the run position , if engine oil pressure drops or temperatures go up the voltage drops and the engine kills --------- I know you say you are not getting any codes but the RPM sensor will cause the hold curcuit to not energize as the computor thinks the engine is running and won't restart , being you say it would not jump out and start , makes me think you have another problem as I have jump them before to get them out the mud , to finish a job till the part got there or to put it on a trailer ------------ you have to be careful jumping one out as if you jump the pull wire you will burn up the solinoid as it can't stand for constant voltage like the hold side the solinoid can

 

[siduramaxde]

the early model machine where wired just as Tazza said to the starter lug which goes to the armature , the purpose of the pull section of the run kill solinoid is to hold the arm in the run postion till engine oil pressure gets up , then the hold wire gets hot and it holds the arm in the run position , if engine oil pressure drops or temperatures go up the voltage drops and the engine kills --------- I know you say you are not getting any codes but the RPM sensor will cause the hold curcuit to not energize as the computor thinks the engine is running and won't restart , being you say it would not jump out and start , makes me think you have another problem as I have jump them before to get them out the mud , to finish a job till the part got there or to put it on a trailer ------------ you have to be careful jumping one out as if you jump the pull wire you will burn up the solinoid as it can't stand for constant voltage like the hold side the solinoid can

I'm not sure if you guys are familiar with the Deutz engine in My T200. There are only 2 wires going to fuel solenoid. one wire for 12v and the other for ground. If I wire it to the starter it will open the solenoid when I crank the starter but it will close the solenoid as soon as I stop cranking the starter. I can bypass it by wiring up another relay to a switched 12v source that is hot when the key is on. This would save me from buying a new computer. However the nice thing about the computer is that it will shut the machine down if it scenes other problems. A new computer is $750USD. Right now I have an old solenoid installed. I sabotaged the old solenoid and removed all the linkage parts from it. This allows me to start the machine but not shut it down. I have to get out of the machine and hold a little lever to stop it.

 

[biggie]

The relay is good. There are four wires to the relay. A constant hot (12v), a ground, a wire that gets 12v when the key is on, and the wire that goes to the fuel solenoid. All the wires are good with no shorts as confirmed with a ohm meter. The problem is that the wire that should get 12v with the key on is not getting 12v. This wire can be traced all the way to the computer. the computer is not putting out any voltage to this wire, thus the relay will not switch to allow the fuel solenoid to operate. Bypassing the wire does not work because somehow the computer knows when this wire is disconnected and will not allow the starter to crank. On the Deutz motor the fuel pull solenoid must be energized any time the engine is running. I am not aware of a hold coil. Wiring it up to the starter will not work.

Check the "bobcat controller"/computer ground wires. If they're good An 873 computer will work in aT200

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

Check the "bobcat controller"/computer ground wires. If they're good An 873 computer will work in aT200

sounds like you are on top of it and have game. so as long we are shade treein (conisedered a nApapa choke cable? to fuel lever as a pro tech i dont hack. but the deutez has a l shut down lever with predrilled holes(as to there application i do not know. not saying any thing except if only issue is shut down there is a shut down lever that appears to manfuctured to accept na mechanical pull cable. or we could fix it right one and done.you should be awre that once shade tree get ahold of it .we have no other option than to bring back to factory spec.as in what once was a hundred bucks is now a thousand? a little harsh i know. keep in mind that shut down solenoid is now around 600.00 the updated one requires you to change some wires if you dont read directions poof 600 up in smoke,

 

[siduramaxde]

sounds like you are on top of it and have game. so as long we are shade treein (conisedered a nApapa choke cable? to fuel lever as a pro tech i dont hack. but the deutez has a l shut down lever with predrilled holes(as to there application i do not know. not saying any thing except if only issue is shut down there is a shut down lever that appears to manfuctured to accept na mechanical pull cable. or we could fix it right one and done.you should be awre that once shade tree get ahold of it .we have no other option than to bring back to factory spec.as in what once was a hundred bucks is now a thousand? a little harsh i know. keep in mind that shut down solenoid is now around 600.00 the updated one requires you to change some wires if you dont read directions poof 600 up in smoke,

I have since bypassed the computer control of the fuel solenoid. All I did was find a wire that was hot with the key on and then ran that wire to the switched side of a relay. All the safety stuff still works because the computer is still hooked up. The only thing the computer doesn't do is operate the fuel solenoid. It works great now. BTW- I did have to get a new Fuel shutoff solenoid about 1 year ago. I got it from a Deutz dealer for about $250 USD....a lot cheaper than the Bobcat dealer.