Diagnostic code 78-74

[Iowa Dave]

2005 T-190. Code is for "door/transport lock-open/active". Was up working inside switch panel upper left hand side of cab that has A/C, wipers/fan/ cig lighter in it. Added another 12V power plug using keyed hot wire that was not being used for anything--it was in a White plastic "triple" plug that must be used for options I don't have. Now I get the code mentioned above. When I try to use machine, the wood "door" shows up on the screen and the the lift and tilt valve light flashes, and lift and tilt don't work. If I unplug the wire going to the door latch that has the safety switch on it, the code goes away and all functions work (but it would be possible to wreck the door as then I have no safety interlock). My machine has gold pkg, with foot pedals only. Did I fry something somewhere? There don't appear to be any fuses blown down under cover between your legs. Are there fuses somewhere else? What is usually the problem when code 78-84 shows up? Thanks in advance

 

[thetool]

That's interesting.....
I would try disconnecting the battery negative terminal, wait a couple minutes, reconnect and see if that cleared it.
If that dosen't work, you may need to get your controller re-programmed. They should try to scrub the controller as much as they can, by unplugging it right after "clearing memory". They'll know what that means, and it's ammo for you to ask in the event they tell you you need a new controller. If they're decent, they should be happy to do this right on your trailer in their yard. Buy them donuts....=).
Now you know, though, that you can't really just tap into anything up under the dash. Anytime you have a controller involved it can lead to problems like these.
Any 12v taps in the harness(there are a few) will have a black-plastic shrouded spade connector, and will be either red for live or orange for keyed power, and the wire will be single.
Good Luck.

 

[Fishfiles]

That's interesting.....
I would try disconnecting the battery negative terminal, wait a couple minutes, reconnect and see if that cleared it.
If that dosen't work, you may need to get your controller re-programmed. They should try to scrub the controller as much as they can, by unplugging it right after "clearing memory". They'll know what that means, and it's ammo for you to ask in the event they tell you you need a new controller. If they're decent, they should be happy to do this right on your trailer in their yard. Buy them donuts....=).
Now you know, though, that you can't really just tap into anything up under the dash. Anytime you have a controller involved it can lead to problems like these.
Any 12v taps in the harness(there are a few) will have a black-plastic shrouded spade connector, and will be either red for live or orange for keyed power, and the wire will be single.
Good Luck.

Tool ,I don't know if it is a smoke screen put up by the dealer or what but down here the dealer won't scrub a controller , they say only a factory rep has the authority to scrub and if they were to be caught doing it then it could be bad for them , maybe it's just your wording of scrub thats off , refresh or reboot might fit better

 

[thetool]

Tool ,I don't know if it is a smoke screen put up by the dealer or what but down here the dealer won't scrub a controller , they say only a factory rep has the authority to scrub and if they were to be caught doing it then it could be bad for them , maybe it's just your wording of scrub thats off , refresh or reboot might fit better

If they just reload what's already there, or over-write with an updated version, that may not clear something like this.
If they plug in, and hit "update", the computer goes through a little routine whre it will say "clearing memory", then go into "updating".
If you unplug right after "clearing memory", this scrubs the controller of all but the hours and stored codes. Then you have more of an empty slate to load the program onto.
It has worked for me in the past on quirky issues, which sounds like that is what this one may be.
You are correct in that only a DSR can completely scrub a controller(legally).....=).

 

[Fishfiles]

If they just reload what's already there, or over-write with an updated version, that may not clear something like this.
If they plug in, and hit "update", the computer goes through a little routine whre it will say "clearing memory", then go into "updating".
If you unplug right after "clearing memory", this scrubs the controller of all but the hours and stored codes. Then you have more of an empty slate to load the program onto.
It has worked for me in the past on quirky issues, which sounds like that is what this one may be.
You are correct in that only a DSR can completely scrub a controller(legally).....=).

I have been bite a couple of times with something they called a hard code , and discribed it as a code that went off so many times that it wouldn't clear or it just stays constant , have you ever experienced that before I'll have to try what you are saying to clear it before replacing the controller , if I come acrosss that one again ,

 

[Iowa Dave]

If they just reload what's already there, or over-write with an updated version, that may not clear something like this.
If they plug in, and hit "update", the computer goes through a little routine whre it will say "clearing memory", then go into "updating".
If you unplug right after "clearing memory", this scrubs the controller of all but the hours and stored codes. Then you have more of an empty slate to load the program onto.
It has worked for me in the past on quirky issues, which sounds like that is what this one may be.
You are correct in that only a DSR can completely scrub a controller(legally).....=).

Unhooking neg batt cable didn't work. I won't have this machine near dealer for prob a few weeks--but I'll let you know how it turns out, or may ask for more advice. What do I do if they tell me I need a new controller?? Another thing. This T-190 has 580 hrs on it. To change the oil in the track motors, do I have to do like the service manual says and remove the tracks and sprockets? Too bad you are so far away, "tool", I'd have you do it! I have been around long enough to know that the service manual isn't always right. Any help appreciated--need to keep busy when it is COLD outside!! Once I get the T-190 serviced, I have a 753G with its own set of issues. Need to be ready for next season! Thanks again!!

 

[thetool]

Unhooking neg batt cable didn't work. I won't have this machine near dealer for prob a few weeks--but I'll let you know how it turns out, or may ask for more advice. What do I do if they tell me I need a new controller?? Another thing. This T-190 has 580 hrs on it. To change the oil in the track motors, do I have to do like the service manual says and remove the tracks and sprockets? Too bad you are so far away, "tool", I'd have you do it! I have been around long enough to know that the service manual isn't always right. Any help appreciated--need to keep busy when it is COLD outside!! Once I get the T-190 serviced, I have a 753G with its own set of issues. Need to be ready for next season! Thanks again!!

Unfortunatley you do need to remove the tracks to change the hub oil on a T180/190.
If they tell you you need a new controller after they "kinda" scrub it with the method I mentioned, or if they can scrub it completely, before reloading the software, then they're most likely right. A new controller is pricey, I would ask myself if I could live without the door latch sensor.
A new cab door is pricey too. It's all pricey.......=).

 

[siduramaxde]

Unfortunatley you do need to remove the tracks to change the hub oil on a T180/190.
If they tell you you need a new controller after they "kinda" scrub it with the method I mentioned, or if they can scrub it completely, before reloading the software, then they're most likely right. A new controller is pricey, I would ask myself if I could live without the door latch sensor.
A new cab door is pricey too. It's all pricey.......=).

My T200 doesn't have the door sensor that your T190 does. However, I'm very aware that if the door is left open it could be knocked off. I'm not sure if all the doors come off the same as mine but mine just lifts up and comes off the hinges. To prevent the door from becoming damaged from being open while operating the machine I simply removed the strong arm that holds the door open. Now the door will always close and the only way it will stay open is to hold it open.

 

[Kelly]

It sounds like the door isn't shut. There is a magnet in the striker mounted to the RH side of the cab that makes the switch in the latch. Make sure the door is getting shut all the way, maybe try putting a magnet against the sensor to see if the code goes away. Otherwise do what everybody else does and just leave it unplugged.