Crankshaft inspection lx885

[briguy98]

Well I guess the dealer was right my crankshaft was going. I now have a knocking sound. I raised the machine and have bucket up in the air. I have to take fuel tank off to get to the oil pan. Can someone guide me through this?

 

[Mike10]

There are two brackets holding the tank in place. The rear one is right below the filler spout and is held in place with two bolts. The other bracket is at the front of the tank. Flip the seat up and you should be able to see it. If you can pump the fuel out of the tank. remove the filler spout and hoses going into the tank. remove the sender wires. To get the tank out the rear of the tank needs to go down. You might see if you can access the bolts by just lowering the rear of the tank slightly. If not then you will need to raise the back of the loader high so the tank can be lowered enough to remove.

 

[briguy98]

There are two brackets holding the tank in place. The rear one is right below the filler spout and is held in place with two bolts. The other bracket is at the front of the tank. Flip the seat up and you should be able to see it. If you can pump the fuel out of the tank. remove the filler spout and hoses going into the tank. remove the sender wires. To get the tank out the rear of the tank needs to go down. You might see if you can access the bolts by just lowering the rear of the tank slightly. If not then you will need to raise the back of the loader high so the tank can be lowered enough to remove.

Thank you for your response. I will be starting this project this afternoon. After the oil pan is removed, can I pull the crank or does that involve engine removal and teardown?

 

[Mike10]

Thank you for your response. I will be starting this project this afternoon. After the oil pan is removed, can I pull the crank or does that involve engine removal and teardown?

Not to say you can not do it with the engine in place, but it would be difficult and take more time then removing the engine. Either way the hydro pumps, gear case, and flywheel will need to be removed. When you remove the gearcase you remove the rear engine mount support so you will need to support the back of the engine. At front you will need to remove the timing cover which requires removing the radiator, cooler and rear hood assy. So basically you are down to only the two, front of engine, motor mounts and any wiring and fuel lines in order to remove the engine. If you pull the engine you will not need to remove the fuel tank.

 

[briguy98]

Not to say you can not do it with the engine in place, but it would be difficult and take more time then removing the engine. Either way the hydro pumps, gear case, and flywheel will need to be removed. When you remove the gearcase you remove the rear engine mount support so you will need to support the back of the engine. At front you will need to remove the timing cover which requires removing the radiator, cooler and rear hood assy. So basically you are down to only the two, front of engine, motor mounts and any wiring and fuel lines in order to remove the engine. If you pull the engine you will not need to remove the fuel tank.

I am going to pull the engine. Does anyone have step by step instructions to pulling the engine and replacing the crankshaft? PICS would be nice since this is my first time pulling one.

 

[Mike10]

I am going to pull the engine. Does anyone have step by step instructions to pulling the engine and replacing the crankshaft? PICS would be nice since this is my first time pulling one.

Service manuals would be your best bet and money well spent. You can get an engine service manual from New Holland for about 80.00 or complete service manual for about 350.00.

 

[briguy98]

Service manuals would be your best bet and money well spent. You can get an engine service manual from New Holland for about 80.00 or complete service manual for about 350.00.

I have to replace the crankshaft and need to find a remanufactured or used one. I am in PA and was hoping to get one close by but already know that may be impossible. I also would like to know how to get the crankshaft back in if none of the alignment marks lign up? The crank was broken in 3 different places, none of the bearings show any wear, the engine still ran. Still can't understand how that could happen. Never ran it low on oil.

 

[Tazza]

I have to replace the crankshaft and need to find a remanufactured or used one. I am in PA and was hoping to get one close by but already know that may be impossible. I also would like to know how to get the crankshaft back in if none of the alignment marks lign up? The crank was broken in 3 different places, none of the bearings show any wear, the engine still ran. Still can't understand how that could happen. Never ran it low on oil.

If it was run low on oil, the bearings would spin. I guess it could have been a flaw allowing it to break, even the thrust bearings i guess could allow it to slap around and fail? Ensure there is no end play when you get your new crank installed.
Have you priced one from the dealer? Last time i got a quote on NH engine stuff, the crank was about 2k..... That's from in Australia too. Hopefully it won't be that bad for you.

 

[CASE 1840]

I have to replace the crankshaft and need to find a remanufactured or used one. I am in PA and was hoping to get one close by but already know that may be impossible. I also would like to know how to get the crankshaft back in if none of the alignment marks lign up? The crank was broken in 3 different places, none of the bearings show any wear, the engine still ran. Still can't understand how that could happen. Never ran it low on oil.

" I also would like to know how to get the crankshaft back in if none of the alignment marks lign up? " .. . .. . . There will be marks on the timing gear.. . . . . " The crank was broken in 3 different places, none of the bearings show any wear, the engine still ran. Still can't understand how that could happen. Never ran it low on oil. " . .. . . The bearings are going to be destroyed. When the crank breaks it now wobbles in the main bearings causing them to get rolled over on the edges. . . . . . The connecting rod bearings are also going to be damaged due to the same effect. Run long enough the rods them selves will be damaged on the sides.. . . . Crankshafts are drilled from the main crank journals to the rod crank journals. Oil flows from the main bearings to the rod bearings through these holes. When the crank breaks oil is now bleed back to the oil pan. This causes a drop in oil pressure.. . . . There are 3 parts to a main or rod bearing system. The crankshaft journal, the bearing insert and the bearing bore where the bearing insert is installed. If any of these have a problem the bearings will be damaged. In general, the clearance ( oil space ) between the bearing insert and crank journal is anywhere from .001 " to .003 depending on the engine. Too much clearance and the oil does not have a chance to form a hydrodynamic wedge and the two surfaces rub rather than float. . . . . . . To change the crank the motor must be removed, then pump drive gear, starter, flywheel, bell housing, front pulley, front cover( with injector pump ) and plate. Then the rod caps can be removed as well as the main caps. These caps_MUST_ be marked and go back exactly how they came off otherwise the bearing bore will no longer be round causing a bearing failure.. . . . Everything must be extreemly clean, any grit will cause a failure. Oily is OK if the oil is new and clean... . . Why did the crank fail? Sometimes it is from a small bad spot in the forging that does not show up many hours down the road. If it was very bad from the factory, it would have broken very early in the life of the machine. My question is. " Does this machine see lots of ramming into things, slam throtle acceleration, slamming the controls forard and backwards or running the enigne at a speed where it vibrates badly? " Shock loads are not good for parts and each time something sees a high shock load it puts the part that much closer to failure. . . . Also the design on the pump drive in this machine cause the crank to be side loaded. This constantly flexes the rear of the crank. If things are slammed, a heavy side load is applied to the crank.. . . Given what I've read in your posts, changing the crank by your self will likely result in a bearing failure soon after the motor is put back together. Either have someone there that has build motors before or take the enigne to someone to replace the crank. What ever you do, when the fixed engine is first started, let it build oil pressure before pushing the throttle faster otherwise the bearings will be damaged.. . . There is a lot more to changing the crank than I've gotten into today but, this should give you a start. .. I've typed in paragraphs but sometime this board compresses everyting into one block.

 

[CASE 1840]

" I also would like to know how to get the crankshaft back in if none of the alignment marks lign up? " .. . .. . . There will be marks on the timing gear.. . . . . " The crank was broken in 3 different places, none of the bearings show any wear, the engine still ran. Still can't understand how that could happen. Never ran it low on oil. " . .. . . The bearings are going to be destroyed. When the crank breaks it now wobbles in the main bearings causing them to get rolled over on the edges. . . . . . The connecting rod bearings are also going to be damaged due to the same effect. Run long enough the rods them selves will be damaged on the sides.. . . . Crankshafts are drilled from the main crank journals to the rod crank journals. Oil flows from the main bearings to the rod bearings through these holes. When the crank breaks oil is now bleed back to the oil pan. This causes a drop in oil pressure.. . . . There are 3 parts to a main or rod bearing system. The crankshaft journal, the bearing insert and the bearing bore where the bearing insert is installed. If any of these have a problem the bearings will be damaged. In general, the clearance ( oil space ) between the bearing insert and crank journal is anywhere from .001 " to .003 depending on the engine. Too much clearance and the oil does not have a chance to form a hydrodynamic wedge and the two surfaces rub rather than float. . . . . . . To change the crank the motor must be removed, then pump drive gear, starter, flywheel, bell housing, front pulley, front cover( with injector pump ) and plate. Then the rod caps can be removed as well as the main caps. These caps_MUST_ be marked and go back exactly how they came off otherwise the bearing bore will no longer be round causing a bearing failure.. . . . Everything must be extreemly clean, any grit will cause a failure. Oily is OK if the oil is new and clean... . . Why did the crank fail? Sometimes it is from a small bad spot in the forging that does not show up many hours down the road. If it was very bad from the factory, it would have broken very early in the life of the machine. My question is. " Does this machine see lots of ramming into things, slam throtle acceleration, slamming the controls forard and backwards or running the enigne at a speed where it vibrates badly? " Shock loads are not good for parts and each time something sees a high shock load it puts the part that much closer to failure. . . . Also the design on the pump drive in this machine cause the crank to be side loaded. This constantly flexes the rear of the crank. If things are slammed, a heavy side load is applied to the crank.. . . Given what I've read in your posts, changing the crank by your self will likely result in a bearing failure soon after the motor is put back together. Either have someone there that has build motors before or take the enigne to someone to replace the crank. What ever you do, when the fixed engine is first started, let it build oil pressure before pushing the throttle faster otherwise the bearings will be damaged.. . . There is a lot more to changing the crank than I've gotten into today but, this should give you a start. .. I've typed in paragraphs but sometime this board compresses everyting into one block.

I've typed in paragraphs but sometime this board compresses everyting into one block.
" I also would like to know how to get the crankshaft back in if none of the alignment marks lign up? " .. . ........................................................................................................................................... . . There will be marks on the timing gear.. . . . . ........................................................................" The crank was broken in 3 different places, none of the bearings show any wear, the engine still ran. Still can't understand how that could happen. Never ran it low on oil. " . .. ....................................................................................... . The bearings are going to be destroyed. When the crank breaks it now wobbles in the main bearings causing them to get rolled over on the edges. . . . . ................................................................................................ The connecting rod bearings are also going to be damaged due to the same effect. Run long enough the rods them selves will be damaged on the sides.. . . .......................................................................................... Crankshafts are drilled from the main crank journals to the rod crank journals. Oil flows from the main bearings to the rod bearings through these holes. When the crank breaks oil is now bleed back to the oil pan. This causes a drop in oil pressure.. . . ........................................ There are 3 parts to a main or rod bearing system. The crankshaft journal, the bearing insert and the bearing bore where the bearing insert is installed. If any of these have a problem the bearings will be damaged. In general, the clearance ( oil space ) between the bearing insert and crank journal is anywhere from .001 " to .003 depending on the engine. Too much clearance and the oil does not have a chance to form a hydrodynamic wedge and the two surfaces rub rather than float. . . ................................................................................... . . . To change the crank the motor must be removed, then pump drive gear, starter, flywheel, bell housing, front pulley, front cover( with injector pump ) and plate. Then the rod caps can be removed as well as the main caps. These caps_MUST_ be marked and go back exactly how they came off otherwise the bearing bore will no longer be round causing a bearing failure.. . . . Everything must be extreemly clean, any grit will cause a failure. Oily is OK if the oil is new and clean.......................................................................................................................... . . Why did the crank fail? Sometimes it is from a small bad spot in the forging that does not show up many hours down the road. If it was very bad from the factory, it would have broken very early in the life of the machine. My question is. " Does this machine see lots of ramming into things, slam throtle acceleration, slamming the controls forard and backwards or running the enigne at a speed where it vibrates badly? " Shock loads are not good for parts and each time something sees a high shock load it puts the part that much closer to failure. . ................ . Also the design on the pump drive in this machine cause the crank to be side loaded. This constantly flexes the rear of the crank. If things are slammed, a heavy side load is applied to the crank................................................................................................................... . . Given what I've read in your posts, changing the crank by your self will likely result in a bearing failure soon after the motor is put back together. Either have someone there that has build motors before or take the enigne to someone to replace the crank. What ever you do, when the fixed engine is first started, let it build oil pressure before pushing the throttle faster otherwise the bearings will be damaged.. . ...................................................................... There is a lot more to changing the crank than I've gotten into today but, this should give you a start. ............................................................................................................................... I've typed in paragraphs but sometime this board compresses everyting into one block.

 

[Tazza]

I've typed in paragraphs but sometime this board compresses everyting into one block.
" I also would like to know how to get the crankshaft back in if none of the alignment marks lign up? " .. . ........................................................................................................................................... . . There will be marks on the timing gear.. . . . . ........................................................................" The crank was broken in 3 different places, none of the bearings show any wear, the engine still ran. Still can't understand how that could happen. Never ran it low on oil. " . .. ....................................................................................... . The bearings are going to be destroyed. When the crank breaks it now wobbles in the main bearings causing them to get rolled over on the edges. . . . . ................................................................................................ The connecting rod bearings are also going to be damaged due to the same effect. Run long enough the rods them selves will be damaged on the sides.. . . .......................................................................................... Crankshafts are drilled from the main crank journals to the rod crank journals. Oil flows from the main bearings to the rod bearings through these holes. When the crank breaks oil is now bleed back to the oil pan. This causes a drop in oil pressure.. . . ........................................ There are 3 parts to a main or rod bearing system. The crankshaft journal, the bearing insert and the bearing bore where the bearing insert is installed. If any of these have a problem the bearings will be damaged. In general, the clearance ( oil space ) between the bearing insert and crank journal is anywhere from .001 " to .003 depending on the engine. Too much clearance and the oil does not have a chance to form a hydrodynamic wedge and the two surfaces rub rather than float. . . ................................................................................... . . . To change the crank the motor must be removed, then pump drive gear, starter, flywheel, bell housing, front pulley, front cover( with injector pump ) and plate. Then the rod caps can be removed as well as the main caps. These caps_MUST_ be marked and go back exactly how they came off otherwise the bearing bore will no longer be round causing a bearing failure.. . . . Everything must be extreemly clean, any grit will cause a failure. Oily is OK if the oil is new and clean.......................................................................................................................... . . Why did the crank fail? Sometimes it is from a small bad spot in the forging that does not show up many hours down the road. If it was very bad from the factory, it would have broken very early in the life of the machine. My question is. " Does this machine see lots of ramming into things, slam throtle acceleration, slamming the controls forard and backwards or running the enigne at a speed where it vibrates badly? " Shock loads are not good for parts and each time something sees a high shock load it puts the part that much closer to failure. . ................ . Also the design on the pump drive in this machine cause the crank to be side loaded. This constantly flexes the rear of the crank. If things are slammed, a heavy side load is applied to the crank................................................................................................................... . . Given what I've read in your posts, changing the crank by your self will likely result in a bearing failure soon after the motor is put back together. Either have someone there that has build motors before or take the enigne to someone to replace the crank. What ever you do, when the fixed engine is first started, let it build oil pressure before pushing the throttle faster otherwise the bearings will be damaged.. . ...................................................................... There is a lot more to changing the crank than I've gotten into today but, this should give you a start. ............................................................................................................................... I've typed in paragraphs but sometime this board compresses everyting into one block.

Click your profile, check the box that says use HTML editor free text box, it will format your paragraphs correctly.
I have to agree with all of those points. Especially if you are spending a lot on a new crank, you want to do it right.

 

[briguy98]

Click your profile, check the box that says use HTML editor free text box, it will format your paragraphs correctly.
I have to agree with all of those points. Especially if you are spending a lot on a new crank, you want to do it right.

Wow great response! I know I am a rookie and I appreciate the time you took to explain everything. I took your advice and recruited some friends who have done this before. We still have to find the parts. Does anyone know the company in Missouri that sells after market crankshafts? I found a person who told me that he could get one for $600. I said "great " but I need the bearings as well. He cut me short and told me he would call back but I have not heard back from him. If I do order the crankshaft how do I know which size bearings to order? That may be a stupid question and really put me in novice rankings but this is too important for me to screw up. Lets just say I put all me eggs in one basket and totally could not imagine that I would be at this point begging for help.

 

[Tazza]

Wow great response! I know I am a rookie and I appreciate the time you took to explain everything. I took your advice and recruited some friends who have done this before. We still have to find the parts. Does anyone know the company in Missouri that sells after market crankshafts? I found a person who told me that he could get one for $600. I said "great " but I need the bearings as well. He cut me short and told me he would call back but I have not heard back from him. If I do order the crankshaft how do I know which size bearings to order? That may be a stupid question and really put me in novice rankings but this is too important for me to screw up. Lets just say I put all me eggs in one basket and totally could not imagine that I would be at this point begging for help.

You will only know the bearing size when you get the crank lined up. It depends on if its new or used. If its new, it will take standard bearings. If its used, it should have been ground and it should be marked with what size bearings you will require.