Bought an M-610 Just Need a Little Help

[Kellen]

As far as the lever go, they will sit at vertical now. I adjusted them so they have about 3.5" of movement each way. I also checked the actuator nuts to make sure they have full contact when put in forward or reverse. They don't always want to return to neutral but unlike before, when I put it in neutral, it will stay there.
I'll check again today, but I believe the variable speed sheave does stay in high when I put it there. I was just out of town for 3 days and when I returned, there was nothing leaking. I think that's a good sign. Really hoping it was just that clutch shaft hydro fitting that needed to be tightened.
I need to pull the drive belt. Was hoping that I could check it for cracks and wear and possible lightly sand the edges if it looked good. The procedure doesn't seem that hard to do but the service manual makes everything seem simple. I think I want to remove the cage though. Don't know if that's a good idea or not but as access to the mechanical stuff is hard already, I hope that will ease the pain a little.

Just went out and ran it for a bit. The variable speed sheave is holding in high. I sat there and observed the valve for a while and did not see any leaks from it. The only place I saw hydraulic oil dripping was from the left rear clutch shaft nut. Looking at the parts diagram, it show it having a washing and a "shakeproof" washer on there. It looks like the lockwasher is pretty chewed up, however it wasn't designed to keep it from leaking so I'm wondering if that hole the shaft goes through is just wallowed out enough to allow a little oil to leak from it. Not sure what I can do to stop that leak. Man I really don't want to pull the cover off again to work on that shaft.

 

[alchemysa]

Just went out and ran it for a bit. The variable speed sheave is holding in high. I sat there and observed the valve for a while and did not see any leaks from it. The only place I saw hydraulic oil dripping was from the left rear clutch shaft nut. Looking at the parts diagram, it show it having a washing and a "shakeproof" washer on there. It looks like the lockwasher is pretty chewed up, however it wasn't designed to keep it from leaking so I'm wondering if that hole the shaft goes through is just wallowed out enough to allow a little oil to leak from it. Not sure what I can do to stop that leak. Man I really don't want to pull the cover off again to work on that shaft.

Kellen ... "As far as the lever go, they will sit at vertical now. I adjusted them so they have about 3.5" of movement each way. I also checked the actuator nuts to make sure they have full contact when put in forward or reverse. "
The clutch actuator nuts have to be adjusted exactly as per the manual. With the lever 4" forward, set the rear nut to full contact, then adjust the front one with a straight edge across the clutch face so that both clutches are in alignment. Do not (as a I tried to do) adjust the front nut by moving the lever 4" backwards and repeating the process.
If you do it the wrong way the assembly will bind against the inner wall, (or something like that). I can't remember exactly what I did or what went wrong but I know now that you have to do it by the book.

 

[Kellen]

Kellen ... "As far as the lever go, they will sit at vertical now. I adjusted them so they have about 3.5" of movement each way. I also checked the actuator nuts to make sure they have full contact when put in forward or reverse. "
The clutch actuator nuts have to be adjusted exactly as per the manual. With the lever 4" forward, set the rear nut to full contact, then adjust the front one with a straight edge across the clutch face so that both clutches are in alignment. Do not (as a I tried to do) adjust the front nut by moving the lever 4" backwards and repeating the process.
If you do it the wrong way the assembly will bind against the inner wall, (or something like that). I can't remember exactly what I did or what went wrong but I know now that you have to do it by the book.

I adjusted them per the manual. I never removed the actuators. Only really had to adjust 1 because I turned the shaft on accident when trying to remove a stuck nut.

 

[gearbox]

I adjusted them per the manual. I never removed the actuators. Only really had to adjust 1 because I turned the shaft on accident when trying to remove a stuck nut.

If your leak is small you can clean our the flinger holes in the outside clutch . There is 3 holes [I think ] just outside the clutch . These get pluged up with grease . The idea is for any oil leak to be sprayed out befor it can get on the belt . Don't be afraid to tear onto the clutch . Just 2 snap rings , there is a small button inside when you pull the oil swivel out . It goes in and to get the O ring past the smap ring you need a deep socket or a piece of pipe or even pvc pipe . Just give it a good smack . It looks a lot harder in the book than it is . I have yet to replace a swivel . Just look out for the 1 little piece .

 

[Kellen]

If your leak is small you can clean our the flinger holes in the outside clutch . There is 3 holes [I think ] just outside the clutch . These get pluged up with grease . The idea is for any oil leak to be sprayed out befor it can get on the belt . Don't be afraid to tear onto the clutch . Just 2 snap rings , there is a small button inside when you pull the oil swivel out . It goes in and to get the O ring past the smap ring you need a deep socket or a piece of pipe or even pvc pipe . Just give it a good smack . It looks a lot harder in the book than it is . I have yet to replace a swivel . Just look out for the 1 little piece .

Gearbox, thanks for the advice. I'm very familiar with the clutch shaft now so getting to them isn't a big deal. I appreciate the advice about the holes though.
Where my leak was, I noticed that the lock washer was there but there wasn't a lead washer to be found. Rather than order one, I melted down some lead, poured it in a piece of 2" pipe. Was it cooled, I chucked it up in the lathe, put a 7/8" hole in it and then faced it till it was the right thickness. Worked pretty well…that and the black RTV I put on it.
On a different but not unfamiliar note, my right rear axle seals are leaking now. Looking at it, it has the same brass sleeve on it that was on the left rear when I replaced it. I already have some seals and am think I'll just make my own sleeve this time rather than ordering one. The PO said that he had those axles done 2 years ago. Whoever did the work didn't do great with the seals, but if the bearings were replaced 2 years ago, I don't know that I was to spend the money to replace them.
I also spent some time cleaning my drive belt. I have a new one on order but with a little cleaning it is performing better. Not 100% or even 75% but it's more than it was.
One minor thing is that my alternator light isn't going off. I don't think it's charging either. It's a 10SI 3 wire. I tested it with the motor running and was only getting 12.3 volts so a bit less than the 12.5 with it not running. The alt light is hooked up correctly. I unplugged it from the alternator and the light does not come on. Not sure how to troubleshoot this thing yet.

 

[Unicam]

Gearbox, thanks for the advice. I'm very familiar with the clutch shaft now so getting to them isn't a big deal. I appreciate the advice about the holes though.
Where my leak was, I noticed that the lock washer was there but there wasn't a lead washer to be found. Rather than order one, I melted down some lead, poured it in a piece of 2" pipe. Was it cooled, I chucked it up in the lathe, put a 7/8" hole in it and then faced it till it was the right thickness. Worked pretty well…that and the black RTV I put on it.
On a different but not unfamiliar note, my right rear axle seals are leaking now. Looking at it, it has the same brass sleeve on it that was on the left rear when I replaced it. I already have some seals and am think I'll just make my own sleeve this time rather than ordering one. The PO said that he had those axles done 2 years ago. Whoever did the work didn't do great with the seals, but if the bearings were replaced 2 years ago, I don't know that I was to spend the money to replace them.
I also spent some time cleaning my drive belt. I have a new one on order but with a little cleaning it is performing better. Not 100% or even 75% but it's more than it was.
One minor thing is that my alternator light isn't going off. I don't think it's charging either. It's a 10SI 3 wire. I tested it with the motor running and was only getting 12.3 volts so a bit less than the 12.5 with it not running. The alt light is hooked up correctly. I unplugged it from the alternator and the light does not come on. Not sure how to troubleshoot this thing yet.

well you managed to figure out how to post pictures and start new paragraphs.. so you're doing better than I am. well look at that, a new paragraph. i better quit while i'm ahead. I'll conquer adding pictures another time Keep up the good work kellen and post some videos if you took any.

 

[Unicam]

Gearbox, thanks for the advice. I'm very familiar with the clutch shaft now so getting to them isn't a big deal. I appreciate the advice about the holes though.
Where my leak was, I noticed that the lock washer was there but there wasn't a lead washer to be found. Rather than order one, I melted down some lead, poured it in a piece of 2" pipe. Was it cooled, I chucked it up in the lathe, put a 7/8" hole in it and then faced it till it was the right thickness. Worked pretty well…that and the black RTV I put on it.
On a different but not unfamiliar note, my right rear axle seals are leaking now. Looking at it, it has the same brass sleeve on it that was on the left rear when I replaced it. I already have some seals and am think I'll just make my own sleeve this time rather than ordering one. The PO said that he had those axles done 2 years ago. Whoever did the work didn't do great with the seals, but if the bearings were replaced 2 years ago, I don't know that I was to spend the money to replace them.
I also spent some time cleaning my drive belt. I have a new one on order but with a little cleaning it is performing better. Not 100% or even 75% but it's more than it was.
One minor thing is that my alternator light isn't going off. I don't think it's charging either. It's a 10SI 3 wire. I tested it with the motor running and was only getting 12.3 volts so a bit less than the 12.5 with it not running. The alt light is hooked up correctly. I unplugged it from the alternator and the light does not come on. Not sure how to troubleshoot this thing yet.

with regard to your slipping belt. the issue i'm having with mine now is the driven sheave is hogged out on the jackshaft and the bushing is gone, also ate up the pins. this allows the sheave to wobble and provide a very poor surface for belt grip also not allowing proper side force on belt. when you take your belt off inspect the driven sheave bushings for deflection to ensure the sheave is opening squarely. also the 3 nuts provide preload and will add a measure of control as too the opening force required vs belt grip. hopefully this makes sense.