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You are not alone, other have use penetrating oil and heat. I had to cut the bucket off mine and cut the pins out...... It was a lot of work, hopefully yours may respond to heat, oil and a soft hammer.
Make sure you use a soft hammer, the pins are hard and can break parts off and hit you... Been there!
Make sure you use a soft hammer, the pins are hard and can break parts off and hit you... Been there!
I think i will try the heat and oil my friend told me to heat the pin until its glowing red. Thanks for the tip of soft hammer i have broken pieces all ready! Wow i never thought anyone would have to cut the bucket off i hope i don't have to do that. Thanks for your help.
You actually want to heat the boss the pin runs through red, not the pin its self. Make the housing expand and hopefully it will budge......
Good luck
skidsteer.ca
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If the torch and big (soft) hammers fails you may want to find someone with a big press that you can put the bucket and QA in. Steady even pressure wins over the hammer every time.
Ken
I wish i thought of that when i did mine..... I have to agree, a large press would work wonders.
Try an automotive ball joint press I've gotten many things out and appart,also might try a b&o hammer after you got red hot.Good luck
TriHonu
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Ask your friends if they have a portable hydraulic unit (Porta-Power or Enerpac Set). I have a couple sets with the attachments shown below. Being able to put some pressure on the pin while you heat it should help a lot. With a large enough set you could probably push the pin in and get the bucket off. You will still have to get the pin out to clean out the pin bores.
I bought my first 10 ton Porta-Power set back in 83. I can't begin to tell you how many times they let me complete a job by putting the force right where I needed it.
There are a number of rental places near me that rent these tools. Check the rental places near you.
bludorbronc
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is it possible to weld a big nut on top of a short piece of pipe and then weld the piece of pipe onto the bucket over the pin and using a bolt in the nut to turn the bolt in and apply force on the pin to help extract. i have done it before , titen the bolt real tite against pin and let sit for awhile or when against it tite hit the head of the bolt with big hammer and titen again, over and over..or maybe a air operated impact driver and let it hammer on the pin awhile.
Tri-Hou , that is a good looking ram pin driver attachment that I could probally find a few uses for ,,,,,,but I don't think it would get in to the wedge pins of a bobtack ---------I am pretty sure there are some threads on this topic ---------- I have only had to cut out a few of the pins before , I think some people hit and heat too much , if you get it too hot and the pin gets hot and swells you ain't did no good , and if you just keep banging on it then it will mushroom ------ I start by taking out the grease fitting on the side the bobtack and digging out all the packed grease , mud , rust with a pick out the hole , this allows me to shoot "Aerokroil"( the best penetrant around ) into the journal , this gets some penetrant to the middle of the pin , also shot it from top and bottom , to drive it I got a heavy duty punch thats about 2 ft long with a slight bow, bend in the middle , take off the linkage and the release lever to get better access , with the bent punch it makes driving it down and out easier as you get a solid hit and the punch lays against the wall and helps keep it lined up , if you got some one around it helps to have a holder and a hitter , vise grips on the punch as a handle helps , you need to use a big hammmer , don't peck at it with a 2 lb ball pen if it is realy stuck , after a few hits and it don't move then go to the heat , as said keep the heat off the pin and on the bore , when hot hit it , if it don't move then don't continuue to beat it up , spray some Kroil on it while it is hot and it will eventually soak in , let it cool all the way down before trying to hit it again , if no good then heat again , after about 3 heat ups and it don't move then I am cutting it out , usually on a pin like that you don't have to cut it all the way , cut in from one side and then the other about and inch and it will relieve a lot of surface area and it may move -------------------------I kind of like the idea of trying to turn it , instead of welding a nut to the pin , what if you used a heavy impact socket to fashion some kind of driver socket that will go over the flat top of the pin , and by using an extension ( which is going to hurt the torque ) and a big impact it might be possible to turn the pin , if the impact don't work then maybe a torgue multiplier
TriHonu
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The saddles screw on to the end of the ram. There are a number of different saddles and driver pins available. I wouldn't take much to get something to push on the end of the pin.
You nailed the biggest problem, which is the amount of surface area of the pin in contact with the pin bore. Once it gets corroded, there is a lot of friction to overcome. If Bobcat made the pins so there was only three rings on the OD that contacted the bore and the rest of the pin was .050 under-size, the pins would be a lot less prone to stick in the bore.
My pins were tight when I bought my loader. It was used for snow removal and was in the salt. I was lucky enough to get the pins moving with a little work. I change attachments so frequently and keep mine over greased. This is another one of those problems that can be prevented with less than a tube of grease if you just take the time to keep your machine lubed.
I have heard of people removing the grease zerks and attaching a Porta-Power pump to the fitting bore and pumping ATF in. The pumps put out 10,000 psi.
I know you can remove mill scale from steel with Muriatic Acid. I wonder if it would cut through the grease and rust?
Thanks everyone for your replies. i might try the portable hydraulic unit but first ill try heat and hammer first Thanks Again.
everyone might think this is a joke but don't knock it till you try it take a bottle of coke a cola or any carbinated soft drink pour or squirt it on like you would penetrating oil and in a few minutes it will be loose. works great on anything rusted nuts bolts.
If only it was that easy.
I see this is an old thread, but I might as well try...
Mine is a 2005 A220, the entire lower part (where the pins go into the bottom) is enclosed. I can't access that area for heat or anything else.
I've put a lot of penetrating oil down the pins, that's about it so far.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Mine is a 2005 A220, the entire lower part (where the pins go into the bottom) is enclosed. I can't access that area for heat or anything else.
I've put a lot of penetrating oil down the pins, that's about it so far.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Soft hammer or use a piece of mild steel rod and smack it from the under side of the bucket.
If you need access, cut the eyes out of the bucket to get it off, then you will have better access to the pins to start beating on them to try and make them move
If you need access, cut the eyes out of the bucket to get it off, then you will have better access to the pins to start beating on them to try and make them move
Thanks for the reply and advice.
I'd been spraying and squirting all kinds of antisieze down the pins for a week or two. pulled the grease zertks and tried cleaning inside as best I could. One last ditch effort before going to the torch... I tied a chain around a large tree, added a 2' pipe to the lever for, well, leverage, and pivoted the skidsteer (knowing I could end up bending the levers, but worth a try), worked on both sides, loud POP, now they move freely. No bending of the levers. Maybe I got lucky, but I'm happy I didn't have to take the torch out.
I'd been spraying and squirting all kinds of antisieze down the pins for a week or two. pulled the grease zertks and tried cleaning inside as best I could. One last ditch effort before going to the torch... I tied a chain around a large tree, added a 2' pipe to the lever for, well, leverage, and pivoted the skidsteer (knowing I could end up bending the levers, but worth a try), worked on both sides, loud POP, now they move freely. No bending of the levers. Maybe I got lucky, but I'm happy I didn't have to take the torch out.
