I recently purchased a Bobcat T300 with about 4,400 hours on it. As part of the pre-purchase inspection we found and brought to the seller's attention that the left side drive control lever did not operate as smoothly as the right. We also noticed the left front idler was worn. Seller said the worn idler was causing it to stutter and possibly the linkage was slightly out of adjustment. The idler was replaced and the linkage adjusted. The drive control is better than it was, but the problem has not been fully resolved. Now that I have lived with it a little this is what I have found: there is no creep when both levers are in the neutral position and at full ground speed operation the levers seem to be in adjustment. In comparison to the operation of the right lever the left will not start track movement as immediately as the right lever. This is forward or backward and most noticeable when trying to make small, gentle movements. When the left lever is moved, it takes more lever movement to start the track moving and the track will not always continue moving at that lever position. The track will start and then stop and sometimes after a little pause the track will move some more, other times the track will not move more. This creates a stutter in the movement and often - when in work operation, the tendency is to move the lever more, which then causes much greater track movement than desired. Sometimes after that initial track movement and the track has paused, the lever has to be moved up to 3/4" more before additional track movement occurs and when the track does move it is the same start and stop or stutter. The stutter is not noticeable when the left lever is moved to nearly the full range of movement or when the loader is under way and only steering adjustments are being made by the levers. The poor operation of the left lever seems to be the same whether moving it forward or backward. Any help is greatly appreciated.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
I am leaning towards your machine is standard controls and not joystick. I'm thinking you have a loose pintal lever which is giving you all the slop. Flip the cab and move the arms back and forth and watch the linkage where where it connects to the pumps. Lets start simple, steering linkage is a wear item in my book and the most likly cause.
Thanks Dan. Yes, it has standard controls - sorry I should have mentioned that. I will carefully check the linkage movement and report back.I am leaning towards your machine is standard controls and not joystick. I'm thinking you have a loose pintal lever which is giving you all the slop. Flip the cab and move the arms back and forth and watch the linkage where where it connects to the pumps. Lets start simple, steering linkage is a wear item in my book and the most likly cause.
If your machine has power bobtach and it works fine, you have no fear of major component failure. If there was metal in the system, power bobtach will stop working before yoy have other syptoms.Thanks Dan. Yes, it has standard controls - sorry I should have mentioned that. I will carefully check the linkage movement and report back.
Thanks Dan. The linkage seems perfectly tight. As soon as the lever is moved there is movement at the pintle - forward and backward. Right and left side are the same in that regard. I do have a little movement at the left front shock ball joint. I do not have power bobtach.If your machine has power bobtach and it works fine, you have no fear of major component failure. If there was metal in the system, power bobtach will stop working before yoy have other syptoms.
The play in the joints do not mean a whole hill of beans. Are the levers under the centering plate tight on the shafts? The older alumin arms were know to loosen on the shaft if there was any leakage around the shaft seals. If that all looks fine. There is a case drain filter, a silver canister intfont of the pumps. If a motor is going, this filter will be full of metal. A few small pieces is nothing. One line goes to sump, so when you take it off, it will make a mess, try to find the correct JIC plug ft that.Thanks Dan. The linkage seems perfectly tight. As soon as the lever is moved there is movement at the pintle - forward and backward. Right and left side are the same in that regard. I do have a little movement at the left front shock ball joint. I do not have power bobtach.
I did not remove the centering plate or look at the arm connection to the shafts. Reviewing the service manual it looks like the centering plate needs to be removed, then the pintle arm in order to inspect the pintle base at the square shaft union. Is this correct? Am able to inspect the contents of the case drain filter by pouring the oil into a suitable container and looking for the metal? Sounds like you are starting to consider drive motor failure? Thanks for your help and assistance.The play in the joints do not mean a whole hill of beans. Are the levers under the centering plate tight on the shafts? The older alumin arms were know to loosen on the shaft if there was any leakage around the shaft seals. If that all looks fine. There is a case drain filter, a silver canister intfont of the pumps. If a motor is going, this filter will be full of metal. A few small pieces is nothing. One line goes to sump, so when you take it off, it will make a mess, try to find the correct JIC plug ft that.
If you look at the steering linkage just right right, you will be able to see the shadt coming up from the pump and into the bottom of lever. This is where I am looking for play. I am not ruling out a drive motor going, but I want to start at the more likly and way cheaper possiblity.I did not remove the centering plate or look at the arm connection to the shafts. Reviewing the service manual it looks like the centering plate needs to be removed, then the pintle arm in order to inspect the pintle base at the square shaft union. Is this correct? Am able to inspect the contents of the case drain filter by pouring the oil into a suitable container and looking for the metal? Sounds like you are starting to consider drive motor failure? Thanks for your help and assistance.
Got it. I'll look carefully and see if I can determine if there is slop there. Many thanks.If you look at the steering linkage just right right, you will be able to see the shadt coming up from the pump and into the bottom of lever. This is where I am looking for play. I am not ruling out a drive motor going, but I want to start at the more likly and way cheaper possiblity.
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Messages
- 1,294
a sure fire sign of loose pintle lever is wear on bolts (carefully inspect the bolts that hold )how do i explain lets say on top of stat right and left left holding guide pins for centering plate right spring assy , square shaft sticking up which levers move.the plate underneath this . if allum lever contacting any of these bolts lever loose, if seals are leaking youll never get tight if run too long this way swash plate needs replaced, this you dont want to do.Got it. I'll look carefully and see if I can determine if there is slop there. Many thanks.
The way i confirmed mine were bad was to use a screwdriver, if i could lever the alloy arm up, it was loose and needed replacing.a sure fire sign of loose pintle lever is wear on bolts (carefully inspect the bolts that hold )how do i explain lets say on top of stat right and left left holding guide pins for centering plate right spring assy , square shaft sticking up which levers move.the plate underneath this . if allum lever contacting any of these bolts lever loose, if seals are leaking youll never get tight if run too long this way swash plate needs replaced, this you dont want to do.
Thanks Tazza that's good to know. I was thinking of it more twisting on the square shaft and with the centering plate in place and all the other stuff it was difficult to see what was happening there. I'll report back when I get some time to check it out once again. Thanks all.The way i confirmed mine were bad was to use a screwdriver, if i could lever the alloy arm up, it was loose and needed replacing.
With the centering spring pushing on it all, it can be hard to see any movement. If it slides it is loose.Thanks Tazza that's good to know. I was thinking of it more twisting on the square shaft and with the centering plate in place and all the other stuff it was difficult to see what was happening there. I'll report back when I get some time to check it out once again. Thanks all.
I'm sure 7lbssmallie and bobcatdan see it all the time so they can spot it easily and know exactly what to look for.
Thanks Tazza. Yes, I'm looking for something I have never seen. You said "If it slides it is loose." In your statement what is "it" and how will it slide? Thanks again.With the centering spring pushing on it all, it can be hard to see any movement. If it slides it is loose.
I'm sure 7lbssmallie and bobcatdan see it all the time so they can spot it easily and know exactly what to look for.
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Messages
- 1,294
ONE THING WE ARE ALL MISSING .(POSSIBLY BECAUASE WE DID NOT WANT TO GO THERE) 4400 HRS HAS DRIVE MOTOR MAINT been done is outer hub brg locking up( evidenace should be found when changing oil in outer hub) should also be visable buy external leak behind drive sprocket. , if this is the case , now we are into a whole differant subject,,, the question being cost effectines of repeair or replacment of drive motors. specifaccliy outer hub,. i believe to gather full knowdledge base this should be opened under new thread this i shall do...Thanks Tazza. Yes, I'm looking for something I have never seen. You said "If it slides it is loose." In your statement what is "it" and how will it slide? Thanks again.
"it" is the alloy piece that the steering levers join to. It will have two metal stops bolted to it as well.ONE THING WE ARE ALL MISSING .(POSSIBLY BECAUASE WE DID NOT WANT TO GO THERE) 4400 HRS HAS DRIVE MOTOR MAINT been done is outer hub brg locking up( evidenace should be found when changing oil in outer hub) should also be visable buy external leak behind drive sprocket. , if this is the case , now we are into a whole differant subject,,, the question being cost effectines of repeair or replacment of drive motors. specifaccliy outer hub,. i believe to gather full knowdledge base this should be opened under new thread this i shall do...
It is possible that it is a drive motor issue too, but hopefully not.
7LBSSMALLIE, Drive motors have been replaced. I just don't know how many hours are on this drive motor. When the drive motors were replaced they upgraded to the new motors that require the larger drive gear. As soon as I can get the time I am going to check the oil in the hubs and see what it looks like or if I even have any oil in them. I have no idea about hub oil maintenance on this machine. Thank youONE THING WE ARE ALL MISSING .(POSSIBLY BECAUASE WE DID NOT WANT TO GO THERE) 4400 HRS HAS DRIVE MOTOR MAINT been done is outer hub brg locking up( evidenace should be found when changing oil in outer hub) should also be visable buy external leak behind drive sprocket. , if this is the case , now we are into a whole differant subject,,, the question being cost effectines of repeair or replacment of drive motors. specifaccliy outer hub,. i believe to gather full knowdledge base this should be opened under new thread this i shall do...
