Hi, I have a Bobcat m700 (well i think its a m700). I have a problem and looking for a way to fix it. My left drive stick or direction stick stays a little engaged. And its giving me problems when i start up. I was told it could be the seals for the valves of the stick that could be due. When i lift the cage, i see that the stick is connect on the hydrostatic pump. Does any one have a solution to my problem or how to fix it.
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Hey bud, While I am NO expert, I will try to help you just as those guys on this forum have helped me. I am far more familiar with 751 & 753 machines, but I would assume they are at least somewhat similar. SO, with all of that said, I would check the lever arms & linkages that connect to the pump itself. If the seals are not leaking, leave them alone. The issue you are most likely having is a issue with the spring operated 'swash-plate" no longer able to return that control to its neutral position. That is what I have found on TWO 763's (I've bought recently) have both had this exact issue. What I had to do was replace the arms that mount to the pumps shafts. I've had problems with both 763's on the left side only, but while I inspected the other side, I found the same lever arm worn too loose to consider fit for service. SO, I replaced BOTH (2) arms, the bushings that press into them & the bushings that mount in the other end of the linkages, too. After doing that, I jacked up the machine until all FOUR (4) tires were of the ground and it was placed on sturdy jack stands. Then I (very carefully) started the machine (with the cab raised), lowered the seat bar and then pressed the "traction - lock" button. By doing so, I could observe the machine while it should be in NUETRAL position at idle engine speed. After I did ALL of this, I noticed neither side was 'centered' & they both wanted to do the own thing. SO, I adjusted the left side first until it no longer moved, with the engine still running. Once that side was all squared away, I adjusted the right side the same way. (It takes some time to get it just right, as there is no simpler way to set this new neutral position.) Now that the neutral position is reset, then you can adjust the linkage adjustment. By adjusting the linkage length last, you can ensure that the machine has a similar forward & reverse speed. By doing all of this, you will most likely have a great outcome. (NOTE: Try to remember that this is your very first time doing all or some of this, so PLEASE GO SLOWLY! By going slowly, you can make sense of what you are adjusting & why this procedure works the very best!!) Keep the machine safely off the ground until it is adjusted perfectly. If you get flustered, step away from the machine to better keep your bearings.
SkidRoe
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Your lever neutral position needs to be centered. The steps listed below assume that all of your linkages, pumps, centering mechanism, etc. are in good shape with no excessive wear. All wear issues should be dealt with prior to adjusting, or else hitting the neutral position may not be repeatable.
Start by raising the machine so that all wheels are off the ground.
There should be a pair of rods that run from a bell crank levers on the shaft that the steering levers are mounted to, and run back to levers that are mounted on the pumps. These levers control the swash plates in the pumps.
The rods have rod ends on both ends, secured by jam nuts. Loosen the jam nuts so that the rods my be rotated inside of the rod ends. Hopefully, they are not seized.
Start the engine, and note wheel movement, indicating a need for adjustment. Rotate the rods until wheel movement ceases, and tighten the jam nuts. Move the steering levers forward and rearward, allowing them to return to neutral and see that the wheels do stop. Tweek the adjustment if necessary.
HTH - SR
Start by raising the machine so that all wheels are off the ground.
There should be a pair of rods that run from a bell crank levers on the shaft that the steering levers are mounted to, and run back to levers that are mounted on the pumps. These levers control the swash plates in the pumps.
The rods have rod ends on both ends, secured by jam nuts. Loosen the jam nuts so that the rods my be rotated inside of the rod ends. Hopefully, they are not seized.
Start the engine, and note wheel movement, indicating a need for adjustment. Rotate the rods until wheel movement ceases, and tighten the jam nuts. Move the steering levers forward and rearward, allowing them to return to neutral and see that the wheels do stop. Tweek the adjustment if necessary.
HTH - SR
Thx for the info. Im gonna try ajusting the link rods. Also my wheel seal are leaking . I would like to know do i just remove to the bolts around the wheel plat And i can fix the seals from there. Or do i need to remove everything around the back? I ll send à picture attached
Picture 2 
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?? to you too
I would suspect you need to remove the axle from the inside to get to the outer seal. Do you have a service manual for your machine? it should show you exactly what is needed. If not, you should talk to your dealer or ebay to get hold of one.
I have never worked on an M700, but on other models, you remove the bolt inside the chain case that holds the sprocket, you then pull the axle out, remove the bearing cone, replace the seal and bearing cone and push the axle back in and put the sprocket on, do up bolt.
Ok cool. Im gonna try that Thx
Is that hub cracked at the top?
That looks like it would be a bear of a job to do. Is there enough room to access the rear axle cover area?? Would pulling the engine out give you more room, or can you deal with it with it still installed in the machine??
Good luck, if you have a helper, it will make the job easier as you need to slide the axle in and on to the sprocket while the chain is on it still. It is doable, but it saves a LOT of swearing if you have a helper to push on the axle. Been there before!
