Bobcat M-610: Side Panel Gasket and Nut Torque

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Sporker

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Aug 25, 2020
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I just purchased a M-610 (S/N 4956-m-210711) and am going through the usual find it and fix it routine on a few minor problems. Tightened 3 of the four spark plugs and built a new exhaust using a muffler from a Suzuki Hyawatha (or whatever the guy said, bike guys can correct) that I got from a cycle salvage for $40. The seat sheet metal needs some work and I think the clutches are too tight. Needed a new hose from the carb to air cleaner, $80 from Bobcat, ouch, and the hydraulic oil had water in it so I am changing that. Found that the entire jackshaft had drifted toward the left side about ¼" and the chain had popped off the idler sprocket, but it popped off the outside of the sprocket and was still being supported and somehow the drive was still functioning. Some damage occurred but not enough to have to replace the idler sprocket or other parts. The engine seems to run good for the 30 minutes I have run it so far, and for the price and these minor problems, I am pleased with the machine.
I have read most of the posts on the m-610 and similar machines. What a great repository of knowledge!!! Thanks to 6brnorma, Tazza and the many others who have contributed to the site over the years.
Now to my questions. The side panel gaskets appeared to be the originals and rather than replace them, all these years mechanics just kept tightening the side panel nuts, resulting in dimpling and distorting the bolt holes. I ordered new gaskets and have corrected the dimpling and drilled out the holes back to the correct size. The machine torque table refers to the "Gearcase Cover Mounting Nuts" with 30 ft-lbs for the 3/8 nuts, whereas the parts list refers to "side panels". 30ft-lbs seems kind of high for a cork gasket although it is over a large area. Is that the proper torque reference, or is there a torque specifically for the side panel nuts that I haven't found yet? The generic torque table has 25-28 ft-lbs for 3/8 bolts.
There were no details in the manuals, at least in the manuals that I got, on the installation of the side panel gaskets, so that probably means that they are not very sensitive to installation practice. I don't think the originals used adhesive, although some of the cork gasket material did adhere to the paint, and it did not look like the puzzle piece ends need to be sealed. Are there any recommendations on the installation of these gaskets with regard to sealant or adhesive? Do I just put them on dry? I have cleaned the contact areas pretty well. Scott
 

6brnorma

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I do put a light coat of sealant between the gasket and the body but nothing between the panel and the gasket. I don't know what torque I use but I know it's under 30 lbs... also... I went to 'flanged' nuts years ago and have never looked back.
 
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I do put a light coat of sealant between the gasket and the body but nothing between the panel and the gasket. I don't know what torque I use but I know it's under 30 lbs... also... I went to 'flanged' nuts years ago and have never looked back.
Thanks 6brnorma. What do you recommend for a sealant? I don't have any flanged nuts so I will be using washers. Good idea though. Scott
 

alchemysa

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Mar 29, 2016
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Thanks 6brnorma. What do you recommend for a sealant? I don't have any flanged nuts so I will be using washers. Good idea though. Scott
My technique is to apply a thin bead of silicone to both sides of the gasket but let it dry/cure for a few days before installation. This way, the flexible silicon provides a better seal than the cork alone but doesn't stick to the paint. The longer you can let it dry the better. I've used it on thick D.I.Y paper gaskets too.
 
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