Bobcat heater help

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RobPg1967

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Oct 10, 2005
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Hey people - Ive got my new heater ready to install and I wanted some advice of two questions I had. 1. I need to be able to shut off the flow to my heater for the summer months, it gets very hot in my area and I do this with all my other equipment. Not sure what the easiest way to do this would be... I realize I need a couple shut of valves installed within the lines - allowing the flow to not go to the heater yet still return to the engine to maintain circulation , any ideas ? 2. I have a picture up in the pictures page here that shows my engine ...and Ive highlighted in red where my new heater lines will go .... but Im not sure which side is the intake and suction . Give it a look , Thanks guys .
 

RobPg1967

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Oct 10, 2005
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The picture is in the heater install pictures album and the picture name is bobcat engine picture .
 

753g

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Dec 8, 2005
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The picture is in the heater install pictures album and the picture name is bobcat engine picture .
The hose on the left is the suction/return side of the water pump, the right side is the hot/pressure side. hope this helps, you'll need to get some 'tees' a restrictor oriface and a control valve also, I'll go dig up the part numbers. Hope this helps.
 

753g

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The hose on the left is the suction/return side of the water pump, the right side is the hot/pressure side. hope this helps, you'll need to get some 'tees' a restrictor oriface and a control valve also, I'll go dig up the part numbers. Hope this helps.
here goes, part numbers: you'll need 2 tees bobcat pn#6648485, 1 orifice bobcat pn#6585223, 1 heater control valve bobcat pn#6654191, and of course lengths of 5/8" hose, 1/2" hose, hose clamps, and whatever else you heart desires, 12 partriges, kitchen sink and a pear tree! Good Luck:)
 

753g

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here goes, part numbers: you'll need 2 tees bobcat pn#6648485, 1 orifice bobcat pn#6585223, 1 heater control valve bobcat pn#6654191, and of course lengths of 5/8" hose, 1/2" hose, hose clamps, and whatever else you heart desires, 12 partriges, kitchen sink and a pear tree! Good Luck:)
and let's not forget the cable to open and close the valve from in the cab, bobcat pn#6648482.
 

RobPg1967

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Oct 10, 2005
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and let's not forget the cable to open and close the valve from in the cab, bobcat pn#6648482.
Wow - now thats what I call fast service , Thanx alot . Im assuming the orifice will enable return flow once the lines are shut off for the summer ?
 

753g

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Wow - now thats what I call fast service , Thanx alot . Im assuming the orifice will enable return flow once the lines are shut off for the summer ?
it does allow for bypass flow when the valve is closed, it also reduces the flow rate of the coolant through the heater core allowing maximum use of the available btu's. look at my pics under the heater install section, i have notations on most of them. if you have any more questions feel free to ask.
 

753g

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it does allow for bypass flow when the valve is closed, it also reduces the flow rate of the coolant through the heater core allowing maximum use of the available btu's. look at my pics under the heater install section, i have notations on most of them. if you have any more questions feel free to ask.
also to be noted all the parts i listed are used in the bobcat factory cab heater setup. i just have an aftermarket heater box (heater core, blower motor, and enclosure w/ ducts) the plumbing in my machine is all hooked up the same as bobcat would do.
 

bobbie-g

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Mar 15, 2004
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also to be noted all the parts i listed are used in the bobcat factory cab heater setup. i just have an aftermarket heater box (heater core, blower motor, and enclosure w/ ducts) the plumbing in my machine is all hooked up the same as bobcat would do.
So what are you gents using for a heater core/blower? I really like 753g's installation spot, I always assumed it had to go in the cab and the lines had to have enough slack to rotate up when the cab was lifted. You show a sweet spot to install, down low, easy routing of the lines. I don't have a core/blower yet, and need to pick one up. I found a place in WA I think, wants $150 new or so. Might end up having to do that. Whatcha think? Next biggie is where to hook the lines on the Peugeot engine in my 751C. Any ideas? I'll have to pester the local dealer if no one else has the skinny. --- Bob
 

753g

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So what are you gents using for a heater core/blower? I really like 753g's installation spot, I always assumed it had to go in the cab and the lines had to have enough slack to rotate up when the cab was lifted. You show a sweet spot to install, down low, easy routing of the lines. I don't have a core/blower yet, and need to pick one up. I found a place in WA I think, wants $150 new or so. Might end up having to do that. Whatcha think? Next biggie is where to hook the lines on the Peugeot engine in my 751C. Any ideas? I'll have to pester the local dealer if no one else has the skinny. --- Bob
The heater box/core assembly I'm using is a napa special and i had to look under bus heaters in the balkamp catalog, it cost about $120us. And again i shall grace this thread with a part number balkamp (read NAPA) # A D20057C002C
 

RobPg1967

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Messages
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So what are you gents using for a heater core/blower? I really like 753g's installation spot, I always assumed it had to go in the cab and the lines had to have enough slack to rotate up when the cab was lifted. You show a sweet spot to install, down low, easy routing of the lines. I don't have a core/blower yet, and need to pick one up. I found a place in WA I think, wants $150 new or so. Might end up having to do that. Whatcha think? Next biggie is where to hook the lines on the Peugeot engine in my 751C. Any ideas? I'll have to pester the local dealer if no one else has the skinny. --- Bob
Heres the heater I ended up using ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-DUAL-FAN-HEATER-12-Volt-NEW-IN- BOX_W0QQitemZ8028468595QQcategoryZ46094QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem its dual fan - and will be mounted right where the factory Bobcat heaters are placed in the cab. Its a tight fit but its gonna work - also I dont have a front door yet so .... the dual fans will compensate for the extra draft . I paid $165 plus shipping ...
 

RobPg1967

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Messages
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Heres the heater I ended up using ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-DUAL-FAN-HEATER-12-Volt-NEW-IN- BOX_W0QQitemZ8028468595QQcategoryZ46094QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem its dual fan - and will be mounted right where the factory Bobcat heaters are placed in the cab. Its a tight fit but its gonna work - also I dont have a front door yet so .... the dual fans will compensate for the extra draft . I paid $165 plus shipping ...
If that link doesnt work ..heres the ebay item number 8028468595
 

753g

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Messages
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If that link doesnt work ..heres the ebay item number 8028468595
Not to poo on the party, but I do have a gripe with the factory setup and location of the heater assembly from bobcat, in that spot you'll have a hard time getting enough hot air to the door to keep it from frosting up. Also heat rises, so having the heater placed low, and forward like I do will keep your feet toasty and the door frost-free. And the cab stays plenty warm, when it is 10-20 degree F outside it'll be a balmy 75 or so inside the cab.
 

bobbie-g

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Not to poo on the party, but I do have a gripe with the factory setup and location of the heater assembly from bobcat, in that spot you'll have a hard time getting enough hot air to the door to keep it from frosting up. Also heat rises, so having the heater placed low, and forward like I do will keep your feet toasty and the door frost-free. And the cab stays plenty warm, when it is 10-20 degree F outside it'll be a balmy 75 or so inside the cab.
Tnx for the part numbers. The place I found was: Maradyne heater from Harold Electric Co. -- 811 W. Rose -- Walla Walla, WA 99362 -- 1-800-541-8910 or 509.525.5070. I believe the price was around $150 new. -- So I called the local plastics shop today and they wanted $95 for a 1/8" thick rectangular piece of Lexan polycarbonate sheet for a front door, and $35 each for some Lexan side panels. The stuff is really tough, but I don't think a 1/8" thick door is stiff enough without spending a lot of time making a frame. I think the side panels would work fine in very light stuff (1/16" thick or even less) with some weather strip around the edges. The intent here is to stop the draft, not to make this a for real enclosed like factory cab. Any ideas? --- Bob
 

753g

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Tnx for the part numbers. The place I found was: Maradyne heater from Harold Electric Co. -- 811 W. Rose -- Walla Walla, WA 99362 -- 1-800-541-8910 or 509.525.5070. I believe the price was around $150 new. -- So I called the local plastics shop today and they wanted $95 for a 1/8" thick rectangular piece of Lexan polycarbonate sheet for a front door, and $35 each for some Lexan side panels. The stuff is really tough, but I don't think a 1/8" thick door is stiff enough without spending a lot of time making a frame. I think the side panels would work fine in very light stuff (1/16" thick or even less) with some weather strip around the edges. The intent here is to stop the draft, not to make this a for real enclosed like factory cab. Any ideas? --- Bob
i'd stick with at least an 1/8" thick plexi for the sides, any thing thinner will just flex when you go to bolt it down unless you make a frame for it. i posted a thread on this whole subject a month or two ago, http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=1761 give it a look. see if anythign in there helps you.
 

bobbie-g

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Mar 15, 2004
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576
i'd stick with at least an 1/8" thick plexi for the sides, any thing thinner will just flex when you go to bolt it down unless you make a frame for it. i posted a thread on this whole subject a month or two ago, http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=1761 give it a look. see if anythign in there helps you.
753g -- Tnx, got it. Trying to do this on the cheap, and Lexan is not cheap. Plexi scratches, and vinyl punctures (I do a lot of work around trees/limbs). I suspect I'll end up buying 1/8 inch Lexan for the sides and something stiffer for the front door, although I'll end up probably paying more than a door from Bobcat. I really don't want safety glass in front of me with a mower/projectile launcher running about 2 feet in front of the door. Might even decide to make a rebar shield for the door. --- Bob
 

753g

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753g -- Tnx, got it. Trying to do this on the cheap, and Lexan is not cheap. Plexi scratches, and vinyl punctures (I do a lot of work around trees/limbs). I suspect I'll end up buying 1/8 inch Lexan for the sides and something stiffer for the front door, although I'll end up probably paying more than a door from Bobcat. I really don't want safety glass in front of me with a mower/projectile launcher running about 2 feet in front of the door. Might even decide to make a rebar shield for the door. --- Bob
last time i checked i think the door from bobcat on my machine was close to $800 you could buy alot of lexan or plexi for that price.
 

crisco0216

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Jan 6, 2013
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I'm new here today, so bare with the green horn. I would like to see the PICs you spoke of, but don't know how to find them. I am in Indiana and snow has been a flying. I have a plow truck and using it at every possible chance, but the guy I plow for can put my skidsteer to work with a scraper box. I have 3 problems: 1) cab's not enclosed; 2) cab's not heated; and 3) not sure where to plumb heater core. I've been looking into the options since just after Christmas and am still on the fence on the enclosure model I want. Long term I am wanting a solid front door with a wiper motor for when the snow is REALLY BLOWING as well as a good heater, possibly with directable ducts (ducting) for good defrosting. I think the vinyl/poly enclosures would be a quick fix in the short term, but I think the solid would be a more acceptable long term solution. After just having started looking into the heater options, I found out we have a place here in town that stocks 3 kinds on heater cores. The one I really like has a 3 speed fan motor with integrated rotary control switch. I saw it Friday and want to take my skidsteer up there this week to see if it'll fit well in the cab. It was around $260.00 without any hose installation kit, but the price ranges I found online varied from $199.00-$500.00. I'd likely pay more to someone locally as I can see the product before I buy it and wrap my hands around there neck if I'm not happy with it or there solution to my unhappiness. ;-) I think I know one of the ports I need to tap, but unsure on the second (4-390 Cummins B Series). I've tried browsing for help, looked on Cummins website, here... So far nothing immediate or free as of yet. Anyone reading that's smarter then I, feel free to enlighten me. I've got a buddy of mine to drive it once I get it outfitted and then $85.00/hr to start paying for it. :)
 

RobPg1967

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Joined
Oct 10, 2005
Messages
45
I'm new here today, so bare with the green horn. I would like to see the PICs you spoke of, but don't know how to find them. I am in Indiana and snow has been a flying. I have a plow truck and using it at every possible chance, but the guy I plow for can put my skidsteer to work with a scraper box. I have 3 problems: 1) cab's not enclosed; 2) cab's not heated; and 3) not sure where to plumb heater core. I've been looking into the options since just after Christmas and am still on the fence on the enclosure model I want. Long term I am wanting a solid front door with a wiper motor for when the snow is REALLY BLOWING as well as a good heater, possibly with directable ducts (ducting) for good defrosting. I think the vinyl/poly enclosures would be a quick fix in the short term, but I think the solid would be a more acceptable long term solution. After just having started looking into the heater options, I found out we have a place here in town that stocks 3 kinds on heater cores. The one I really like has a 3 speed fan motor with integrated rotary control switch. I saw it Friday and want to take my skidsteer up there this week to see if it'll fit well in the cab. It was around $260.00 without any hose installation kit, but the price ranges I found online varied from $199.00-$500.00. I'd likely pay more to someone locally as I can see the product before I buy it and wrap my hands around there neck if I'm not happy with it or there solution to my unhappiness. ;-) I think I know one of the ports I need to tap, but unsure on the second (4-390 Cummins B Series). I've tried browsing for help, looked on Cummins website, here... So far nothing immediate or free as of yet. Anyone reading that's smarter then I, feel free to enlighten me. I've got a buddy of mine to drive it once I get it outfitted and then $85.00/hr to start paying for it. :)
Here's the link where I got my heater. http://www.northernfactory.com/SPECIALTY_PRODUCTS/AUXILIARY_HEATERS/12V_HEATERS I used the dual fan 12V setup and mounted it just to the left of the left armrest. Ran new coolant hoses to the engine , had to cut circular holes below rear window and run lines over radiator screen and into engine compartment. Heater works very well .
 
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