Bobcat 763 drive chain replacement

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bauertree

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Feb 3, 2025
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I broke the right rear drive chain while plowing snow.
According to the manual, it's a bit of a job to replace.
Is this the case? Why can't I simple snake a new chain (which an old farmer gave me) under the sprockets.
Seems like if I open both chain case panels, elevate off the axils, I should be able to turn each wheel, guying the chain around the sprockets, then connect in the middle.
 
I broke the right rear drive chain while plowing snow.
According to the manual, it's a bit of a job to replace.
Is this the case? Why can't I simple snake a new chain (which an old farmer gave me) under the sprockets.
Seems like if I open both chain case panels, elevate off the axils, I should be able to turn each wheel, guying the chain around the sprockets, then connect in the middle.
Never hurts to try.

The manuals always tell you the "proper" way to do things. Not necessarily the fastest or the least amount of work.

A lot of the time there are workarounds. The manual wanted me to take the engine and pump out to replace the fuel sending unit. I did not, but somehow I got a new sending unit installed.
 
I too see no reason why you couldn;'t
other than I gather, the OEM, wants you to use a chain without a master link, which is why they want more work to be done to install one without one!
 
I broke the right rear drive chain while plowing snow.
According to the manual, it's a bit of a job to replace.
Is this the case? Why can't I simple snake a new chain (which an old farmer gave me) under the sprockets.
Seems like if I open both chain case panels, elevate off the axils, I should be able to turn each wheel, guying the chain around the sprockets, then connect in the middle.
There are 3 chain case covers, the middle one has the solenoid that releases the brake and is directly above the drive sprockets of the hydraulic motors.
I can't see any issues feeding a new chain through other than having to install a joiner link as I believe Bobcat only use "closed loop" chain. Probably also a good time to change the case oil, there's a steel bung pushed into a rubber grommet at the rear of the chain case, left of centre line. The access pocket is probably jammed up with mud etc, install a new grommet as it's not worth risking it leaking. Another tip is you can plug a hydraulic hose into the auxiliary port and at idle pump the hydraulic oil into the chain case and stopping the engine the second oil stops pumping. If you're ACDC 🙃 like me then half fill the hydraulic tank with good quality oil, raise/lower/tilt rams, dump into chaincase, repeat until at right height and top up hydraulic tank to full. This way will renew hydraulic oil as the old oil is good enough for the chaincase.
Also fully clean the covers including bolts and the threads in the top of the case other wise they will leak oil and allow water in. When I bought my old machine the oil was like milk (water in the oil) and over full from being left in the rain for years as it was leaking around the covers. If you don't use new gaskets then use a good sealant like "The Right Stuff", and DON'T over tighten the case cover bolts as the threads are only in 3/16 thick plate and will strip out easy as. That's enough for now, stepping down off soap box.
 

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