I am trying to adjust the creep on my Bobcat 743. I have new cams and pintle bars, 1 am doing the left side then the right side. I can't seem to get the left side to stop. The right has stopped but the left still creeps. I tried to barely loosen the bolts, then adjust slightly , it stops, but when I tighten the bolts and let loose of the lever it will start to creep again. Will this be the best I can get out of it. By the way, I do have a helper.
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Your issue might be your centering spring isn't pushing as hard as it should. You need that little extra push to get it to center properly.
It does take time to get it just right, when you tighten it down, you get a little movement that you need to try again to get right. It is a pain to do, but you'll get there.
Start on the rear adjustment, and let the front one be free. The rear one has only one adjustment hole, the other is set. so get that one spot on, then do the other.
It does take time to get it just right, when you tighten it down, you get a little movement that you need to try again to get right. It is a pain to do, but you'll get there.
Start on the rear adjustment, and let the front one be free. The rear one has only one adjustment hole, the other is set. so get that one spot on, then do the other.
Thanks for your help... I was wandering, the service manual calls for the centering spring to be compressed to 2.7 inches. There are washers on both ends of the spring, most of the washers on the threaded end. Where is the 2.7 in measured?
I'd assume the actual spring length at full extension.
They just don't want it to be spring bound if you wind the bolt in too far. You need a little space between coils when fully compressed when holding the steering levers forward or backwards. Just wind it in till you can still get a piece of paper between the coils. It will stiffen up the levers, but may help with the neutral.
I posted this a year or two ago but it bears repeating. Bobcat makes a Replacement Spring & Washer that is a larger diameter spring than the original. The original is spring is a slip fit over the bolt.Dirt & grease Build-up on the spring makes the spring much weaker and thus less effective than when it is clean. The Replacement Spring goes a long way toward making the creep adjustment successful and lasting. -Dick
I have adjusted the creep and the tires don't move. After adjusting the spring, the steering lever on the left is nice and stiff but the right side is easy to move back and forth. Is this normal after adjustment?
They should both be the same stiffness....
I just wanted to share my creep adjustment technique for anyone else struggling to get their neutral set.
Here is a picture of my setup.
I clamp a 4 foot level across the machine and then clamp the sticks to the level. While the neutral blocks are slightly loose I can use a hammer to tap the level near the sticks to get neutral set.
Then I use a small pry bar or a long screw driver to make sure I am pressing the alignment bar to the cams as I tighten them down.
I do the back pintle first which is the left side wheels on my machine. The right is usually more of a struggle because for some reason the cam action of tightening the bar makes it move in reverse slightly when I remove my clamps. So I just try and estimate the same reverse creep and tap the level so my right side creeps forward the same speed and then tighten the bar down and it seems to get me perfectly neutral.
Make sure to not have the long part of the clamp bars pointing down or you risk having it get caught on your tire (ask me how I know (thankful for foam filled tires)). Hope this helps someone.
Interesting way of getting around it, glad it worked well for you. I'm with you on using a hammer for fine adjustment, it have had to do the same thing.
