Bobcat 463 bics help

[Kcorey]

So I re wired the connections where I was having issues. And I still get a single flash of both the traction and hydraulic arm lights when I start machine and put seat bar down. When I hit the push to operate button the system activated light comes on but still no movement of machine or arms. Single Flash of both lights then a double flash of the traction lock. Any pointers?

i checked the voltage this morning at the battery because i read that if the alternator is not producing correct voltage it can screw with the BICS system. At a cold start at idle it is producing 13.1-13.2v when revved up to i would say 1800-2000 rpm ( no tachometer on machine) it is at 14.2-14.3v. I would assume that is the normal charging voltage?

 

[OldMachinist]

i checked the voltage this morning at the battery because i read that if the alternator is not producing correct voltage it can screw with the BICS system. At a cold start at idle it is producing 13.1-13.2v when revved up to i would say 1800-2000 rpm ( no tachometer on machine) it is at 14.2-14.3v. I would assume that is the normal charging voltage?

Have you pulled the connector off the BICS box and checked for corroded or bent pins?

 

[thynes]

Have you pulled the connector off the BICS box and checked for corroded or bent pins?

The alternator voltage seems ok.

 

[Kcorey]

The alternator voltage seems ok.

Yea I have all pins are clean and not bent. When I bought machine the previous gave me a new BICS computer because he thought that was the issue .

 

[OldMachinist]

Yea I have all pins are clean and not bent. When I bought machine the previous gave me a new BICS computer because he thought that was the issue .

Let's just start with the hydraulic lock valve. The 2 flashes are saying that the wiring that controls the solenoid is shorted to battery voltage. The normal control voltage is around 9-10 volts. So somewhere the wire(dark green or has 4410 printed on it) that comes off pin #1 on the BICS main connector is shorted to a wire that has system voltage(12-14 volts). If you unplug the connector at the lock solenoid does the number of flashes change?

 

[Kcorey]

Let's just start with the hydraulic lock valve. The 2 flashes are saying that the wiring that controls the solenoid is shorted to battery voltage. The normal control voltage is around 9-10 volts. So somewhere the wire(dark green or has 4410 printed on it) that comes off pin #1 on the BICS main connector is shorted to a wire that has system voltage(12-14 volts). If you unplug the connector at the lock solenoid does the number of flashes change?

I will check on that tonight, are you talking about the drive lock or the lift arm lock?

 

[OldMachinist]

I will check on that tonight, are you talking about the drive lock or the lift arm lock?

The one on this block.

Unless you have one of the latest 463's then its on the main control valve.

 

[Kcorey]

The one on this block.

Unless you have one of the latest 463's then its on the main control valve.

Ok, I will unplug it tonight and see if the flashes change. I manually put 12v to that with it unplugged to get the lift arms working so I could move machine.

 

[Kcorey]

Ok, I will unplug it tonight and see if the flashes change. I manually put 12v to that with it unplugged to get the lift arms working so I could move machine.

I unplugged the solenoid on the block. And got no change in the lights. I u plugged the traction lock solenoid and got 3 blinks from it. I also found that the shut down relay/ timer plug was corroded and I plulled the timer apart and it was full of corrosion so I will be replacing that tomorrow if I can locate a new part. Also unplugged the alternator plug and that is also corroded . I need to depin that and clean the terminals also.

 

[OldMachinist]

I unplugged the solenoid on the block. And got no change in the lights. I u plugged the traction lock solenoid and got 3 blinks from it. I also found that the shut down relay/ timer plug was corroded and I plulled the timer apart and it was full of corrosion so I will be replacing that tomorrow if I can locate a new part. Also unplugged the alternator plug and that is also corroded . I need to depin that and clean the terminals also.

Sounds like you're going to have to clean every connection on your machine. It may have been a flood victim.

 

[Kcorey]

Sounds like you're going to have to clean every connection on your machine. It may have been a flood victim.

I have gone threw every plug or connection on the machine, still no luck. I also replaced the fuel shutdown timer/ relay and it still doesn't shut off. I have power and ground at the fuel shutoff relay. I'm getting pretty stumped on this. May have to bring it to the dealer and get it looked at. I don't suppose any one on here is from CT?

 

[antfarmer2]

I have gone threw every plug or connection on the machine, still no luck. I also replaced the fuel shutdown timer/ relay and it still doesn't shut off. I have power and ground at the fuel shutoff relay. I'm getting pretty stumped on this. May have to bring it to the dealer and get it looked at. I don't suppose any one on here is from CT?

Is there one hidden by the left of the seat?

 

[Kcorey]

Is there one hidden by the left of the seat?

I Beleive there are 2 wires going towards the throttle handle. I did not check those I don't think .

 

[OldMachinist]

I Beleive there are 2 wires going towards the throttle handle. I did not check those I don't think .

Since you were still getting the shorted to system voltage code after unplugging the solenoid the wire to it is bad somewhere along its run. Easiest fix is to cut the wire that comes off of terminal #1 of the BICS at a point that's easy to get to, cut the other end before the connector for the solenoid and then splice a new wire in. If that doesn't get rid of the flashes for the lift lock then the BICS box is bad.

 

[Kcorey]

Since you were still getting the shorted to system voltage code after unplugging the solenoid the wire to it is bad somewhere along its run. Easiest fix is to cut the wire that comes off of terminal #1 of the BICS at a point that's easy to get to, cut the other end before the connector for the solenoid and then splice a new wire in. If that doesn't get rid of the flashes for the lift lock then the BICS box is bad.

I replaced the bics box with a brand new me the previous owner supplied. Also I ohmed put both green wires that run up to the bics box from both the traction lock solenoid and valve lock and they both had 0-.01 ohms. Is there a test for the parking brake switch? Also the push to operate switch?

 

[Kcorey]

I replaced the bics box with a brand new me the previous owner supplied. Also I ohmed put both green wires that run up to the bics box from both the traction lock solenoid and valve lock and they both had 0-.01 ohms. Is there a test for the parking brake switch? Also the push to operate switch?

Do you think a bad key switch would cause issues like this? I also have no shutoff. I replaced the relay timer because it was corroded but still no shutoff . I am going to test for power in a few hours on the relay.

 

[OldMachinist]

Do you think a bad key switch would cause issues like this? I also have no shutoff. I replaced the relay timer because it was corroded but still no shutoff . I am going to test for power in a few hours on the relay.

Do the gauges turn off when you turn the key off? If yes then the key switch is working.
My 453 wouldn't shut down one time and I thought the timer had gone bad but it turned out to be a broken terminal in the timer connector. Looked okay but when I tugged on each wire one came out with part of the terminal attached.

 

[Kcorey]

Do the gauges turn off when you turn the key off? If yes then the key switch is working.
My 453 wouldn't shut down one time and I thought the timer had gone bad but it turned out to be a broken terminal in the timer connector. Looked okay but when I tugged on each wire one came out with part of the terminal attached.

Yea the gauges turn on and off just fine. I found one broken terminal and I replaced it already. Do you know of any test for the parking brake switch by the key switch? And also the push to operate switch?

 

[Kcorey]

Yea the gauges turn on and off just fine. I found one broken terminal and I replaced it already. Do you know of any test for the parking brake switch by the key switch? And also the push to operate switch?

Update - I got machine to turn off by key now, the wires were flipped in the plug . Steady 12v was were negative is supposed to be and vise versa . Still no controls or drive.

 

[Kcorey]

Update - I got machine to turn off by key now, the wires were flipped in the plug . Steady 12v was were negative is supposed to be and vise versa . Still no controls or drive.

I was messing around and ohming out the wires to the plug bics box and one of the Orange wites pulled out, possibly at one point they were put in wrong location? Does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows the location of which wires go where in the bics plug? Thanks