Best way to remove concrete?

[dozer]

Someone asked if I could remove an old beat up driveway for them. I thought about using my pallet forks but was told that I could kiss my forks goodbye. If its that hard on the forks what should I be using? I am not real wild about renting a breaker since I would have to drive 100 miles to get one. thanks Dozer

 

[sp6x6]

Ihave plucked out sidewalk pretty easy with my s185 and bucket. Cracks as I tear it out, might kerf it with concrete saw and get it out in pieces.

 

[Tazza]

Ihave plucked out sidewalk pretty easy with my s185 and bucket. Cracks as I tear it out, might kerf it with concrete saw and get it out in pieces.

The only thing I'd be worried about is the reinforcing bar. It holds it together pretty well, i agree on the diamond saw, cut a few strips then peel it up.

 

[TriHonu]

The only thing I'd be worried about is the reinforcing bar. It holds it together pretty well, i agree on the diamond saw, cut a few strips then peel it up.

Tazza's right on, if there is rebar or wire mesh the job will be much harder.
Yes you can use your forks. Don't use them as pry-bars and don't try to lift the slab with the tips of the forks. Get most of the forks under the slab and try to keep the edge of the slab as close to the backplate as possible.
If you have rebar or wire and the slab does not want to break even when you drop it, lift a section and throw a chunk of railroad tie or something under the slab and then drop it.
You will definitely want a demo saw available if there is wire or rebar in the slab. If you have to rent an attachment look for a drop hammer instead of a hammer.
Here is a link to Bobcat's Drop Hammer. These are specifically designed for breaking slabs and will do a much better job of breaking the concrete away from the rebar. On slabs they are much faster.

 

[dozer]

Tazza's right on, if there is rebar or wire mesh the job will be much harder.
Yes you can use your forks. Don't use them as pry-bars and don't try to lift the slab with the tips of the forks. Get most of the forks under the slab and try to keep the edge of the slab as close to the backplate as possible.
If you have rebar or wire and the slab does not want to break even when you drop it, lift a section and throw a chunk of railroad tie or something under the slab and then drop it.
You will definitely want a demo saw available if there is wire or rebar in the slab. If you have to rent an attachment look for a drop hammer instead of a hammer.
Here is a link to Bobcat's Drop Hammer. These are specifically designed for breaking slabs and will do a much better job of breaking the concrete away from the rebar. On slabs they are much faster.

Thats what I was looking for I actually have a drop hammer so I was just looking to see if that was fastest way to do it and clean up. thanks Dozer

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

Thats what I was looking for I actually have a drop hammer so I was just looking to see if that was fastest way to do it and clean up. thanks Dozer

I do a lot of driveways here in Michigan. And I did a lot of general concrete removal after Hurricane Katrina too. All I use is 48" New Holland-branded pallet forks (5,800 lb. cap.). I have had mine for nearly ten years and haven't bent them---and I do McDonald's restaurant work replacing dumpster pads which can be 8" thick. I can lift a 14' x14' slab, drop it and then pickup the large pieces. I even use them to remove 42" deep x 12" home foundations and tree stump digging. Recently I removed 1,700 sq. ft. in 4 hours which included waiting for the 15 yd dump truck to make his 3 trips to the recycler. I get a $1 a sq. ft. so that was a good day even after paying the truck driver $400. Some guys are doing it for as little as 45 cents a foot, but why? But then some are getting a $1.50 a foot.
Although my pallet forks came with two forks, I bought another set of forks from a forklift dealer and installed them on my pallet fork attachment giving me 4 forks total. The idea was to have closer spaced forks to puick up smaler pieces. I tried it once and found that the extra forks got in the way so I'm back to two.
I am in the process of adding hydraulic cylinders to the forks to slide them back and forth from the cab--this will alleviate a lot of issues picking up smaller pieces, or even when picking up pallets or anything else. I found a nearly-new hydraulically-operated fork attachment on Craigslist for $600 but missed out on them--they sell new for about $2000.
To pick up the smaller pieces and regrade then I use the dirt bucket. Sometimes I'll use my grapple bucket but that's if I'm loading a high-sided truck where I have more control of where I want it in the bed. Rebar or rerod or wire mesh isn't a big deal either--just lift the slab, flip it over on itself and the rerod will break out eventually. When it doesn't I use a handheld concrete saw or bolt cutters. I have a 16" walk behind saw but use it only for making sharp edge cuts--never for removals.

 

[toohp]

I do a lot of driveways here in Michigan. And I did a lot of general concrete removal after Hurricane Katrina too. All I use is 48" New Holland-branded pallet forks (5,800 lb. cap.). I have had mine for nearly ten years and haven't bent them---and I do McDonald's restaurant work replacing dumpster pads which can be 8" thick. I can lift a 14' x14' slab, drop it and then pickup the large pieces. I even use them to remove 42" deep x 12" home foundations and tree stump digging. Recently I removed 1,700 sq. ft. in 4 hours which included waiting for the 15 yd dump truck to make his 3 trips to the recycler. I get a $1 a sq. ft. so that was a good day even after paying the truck driver $400. Some guys are doing it for as little as 45 cents a foot, but why? But then some are getting a $1.50 a foot.
Although my pallet forks came with two forks, I bought another set of forks from a forklift dealer and installed them on my pallet fork attachment giving me 4 forks total. The idea was to have closer spaced forks to puick up smaler pieces. I tried it once and found that the extra forks got in the way so I'm back to two.
I am in the process of adding hydraulic cylinders to the forks to slide them back and forth from the cab--this will alleviate a lot of issues picking up smaller pieces, or even when picking up pallets or anything else. I found a nearly-new hydraulically-operated fork attachment on Craigslist for $600 but missed out on them--they sell new for about $2000.
To pick up the smaller pieces and regrade then I use the dirt bucket. Sometimes I'll use my grapple bucket but that's if I'm loading a high-sided truck where I have more control of where I want it in the bed. Rebar or rerod or wire mesh isn't a big deal either--just lift the slab, flip it over on itself and the rerod will break out eventually. When it doesn't I use a handheld concrete saw or bolt cutters. I have a 16" walk behind saw but use it only for making sharp edge cuts--never for removals.

I use a single tyne ripper attach for the bucket , great for hooking under concete .

 

[BPS]

I use a single tyne ripper attach for the bucket , great for hooking under concete .

My father in law is a concrete contractor, and used to break up all his driveways with a breaker. He came across a challenge when he began doing state owned homes that housed handicapped people. Most were sensitive to either noise and/or dust. Debris around these sites were an issue. He began sawing these driveways up into sections that his skidsteer could handle and used pallet forks to load the blocks onto his dump truck. The diamond blade easily cuts the wire mesh, since it is brittle anyway. It will also cut rebar (if you like buying blades).
Most of the sections I think were in the 4' X 6' range. Just remember that most driveway aprons can be much deeper and will need to be cut smaller.
It is very efficient, leaves little mess and there is little prep work to repour the driveway. If you avoid turning in the stone, all you have to do is regrade the tire tracks. He does all his driveways like this now.