A problem with S100 tilt function ( both cylinders come down - pedal in neutral position)

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Tzarevetz

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Aug 15, 2012
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6
So i have S100 SSL with pedals and levers.The tilt cylinder come down( when the machine is running or is not).When the boom is raised bucket(tilt) falling down, but when the front tires of the machine are suspended in air (push down tilt) the tilt doesn't moove.This mean that the problem doesn't come from the cylinders.The machine is without bucket positioning valve, so the one thing could stop ot run the tilt is hydraulic control valve.The machine is new (200mh) and i really don't know what to do.Please help me. Thanks
 
I'd say your theory that it is not in the cylinders could be not true --------I'd guess that the nut that holds the piston to the chrome rod is loose on one of the two cylinders ---- when you push the cylinder out then the pressure holds the piston against the rod and there is no internal leakage of oil , but when you push the rod in the piston moves away from the rod and oil leaks thru the threads ------------ you may be able to figure out which clinder with out disassembling them , remove the pin out the chrome rod eyelet and push and pull the rod if the nut is loose you will feel it
 
I'd say your theory that it is not in the cylinders could be not true --------I'd guess that the nut that holds the piston to the chrome rod is loose on one of the two cylinders ---- when you push the cylinder out then the pressure holds the piston against the rod and there is no internal leakage of oil , but when you push the rod in the piston moves away from the rod and oil leaks thru the threads ------------ you may be able to figure out which clinder with out disassembling them , remove the pin out the chrome rod eyelet and push and pull the rod if the nut is loose you will feel it
Ok. But as you explain it looks like when the rod moves in(take in the cyl), then oil will leaks, and when the rod moves out then will be OK.In mu case the thing are opposite.And another question: why if one ofe the cyl have leaks and the another is OK, both are comming down ( when the arms ar lift up and the bucket slowly goes down?
 
Ok. But as you explain it looks like when the rod moves in(take in the cyl), then oil will leaks, and when the rod moves out then will be OK.In mu case the thing are opposite.And another question: why if one ofe the cyl have leaks and the another is OK, both are comming down ( when the arms ar lift up and the bucket slowly goes down?
The cylinders are plumbed together, one leaks, it effects both. Lets say you pull the rod pins out so the rods are loose. Push one side in, the other will come out. When a buck drops, the pressure is on the back of the piston, pushing it way from the rod. When picking the front end up, pressure is on the top of the piston, pushing it tight to the rod.
 
The cylinders are plumbed together, one leaks, it effects both. Lets say you pull the rod pins out so the rods are loose. Push one side in, the other will come out. When a buck drops, the pressure is on the back of the piston, pushing it way from the rod. When picking the front end up, pressure is on the top of the piston, pushing it tight to the rod.
Okay, but how this can help me?I understand the connection between the cyl's but don't understant how can i be sure which cyl i defective. One more thing that i tryed is to disconnect the hose whtch goes to the base end of the tilt cyl, and instal a cap on the hose fitting.After this i start the engine and push the bottom (heel) of the tilt pedal. From the open cyl fitting there is no leakage.SO what can i do now?
 
Okay, but how this can help me?I understand the connection between the cyl's but don't understant how can i be sure which cyl i defective. One more thing that i tryed is to disconnect the hose whtch goes to the base end of the tilt cyl, and instal a cap on the hose fitting.After this i start the engine and push the bottom (heel) of the tilt pedal. From the open cyl fitting there is no leakage.SO what can i do now?
thats as good a way as any but you still have to disconnect the other cyl and cap those lines so the oil can only go to the one being tested.
 
thats as good a way as any but you still have to disconnect the other cyl and cap those lines so the oil can only go to the one being tested.
In the time it takes to test the cylinders, I just pop them apart. Clamp the rod in a vice and crank on the nut with a 3/4" drive. I had a rental that settle and did that. i didn't even feel any loosness, and I still fixed it. I did once hace on settle and it was bad. It ended up being a port relief vavle, I think, I can't remember. Settling is next to always in the cyclinders.
 
In the time it takes to test the cylinders, I just pop them apart. Clamp the rod in a vice and crank on the nut with a 3/4" drive. I had a rental that settle and did that. i didn't even feel any loosness, and I still fixed it. I did once hace on settle and it was bad. It ended up being a port relief vavle, I think, I can't remember. Settling is next to always in the cyclinders.
I too would just do the cylinders. A seal kit depending on where you go will cost you all of $30 each. Then you know they are done and will potentially out last all the work you plan on doing.
 
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