873 drive chain

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In the parts manual, it doesn't state length. It says it is endless, 58 pitches and can either be hour glass shaped links or oval shaped links. There are also the link for each shape listed. I cannot decipher 58 pitches into an ansi rating....
Remove your old chain, count the links, you can't get it wrong.
 
Remove your old chain, count the links, you can't get it wrong.
I'll try that Tazza. On the bobcat website, I see where they say 100 HSOC and in the parts manual it says 58 pitches. Can a person take off one of the front chains and reach their hand in there to put one back on if you get one with a master link? Or do I have to take it all the way apart?
 
I'll try that Tazza. On the bobcat website, I see where they say 100 HSOC and in the parts manual it says 58 pitches. Can a person take off one of the front chains and reach their hand in there to put one back on if you get one with a master link? Or do I have to take it all the way apart?
with a master link setup you don't have to take anything apart to get the chain in , as far as length when you get it out you can then lay it on a flat surface and lay the new chain next to it and cut it to lenght as the new chain will come in a bulk box usually 10 ft , I will put a piece of tie wire on the end of the chain to help fish it into place , when you get your master link there are afew different setups , I like the one with cotter keys holding it together better than the one with the clip , seems stronger and more secure but have used both
 
with a master link setup you don't have to take anything apart to get the chain in , as far as length when you get it out you can then lay it on a flat surface and lay the new chain next to it and cut it to lenght as the new chain will come in a bulk box usually 10 ft , I will put a piece of tie wire on the end of the chain to help fish it into place , when you get your master link there are afew different setups , I like the one with cotter keys holding it together better than the one with the clip , seems stronger and more secure but have used both
I started to get ready for my new chains today, they are being delivered Monday. They are all VERY loose so I will change them all. I ran a magnet down in the oil and found the center pin of one of the chain links all tore up. I am not sure if it is from a current chain or if someone had changed it before and not cleaned it up.
Taking the front chain case cover was not difficult at all. The center one though was more interesting. I had to take off the pedal control bars and also the 2 speed brake. There were several electrical connections and hydraulic hoses going to the brake that I just took loose. I believe that I can change all of the chains without taking the back cover off as there are many hoses and things that would have to be removed.
Questions. Between the front of the chaincase and the chain around the sprocket, there is very little room. Is there a way to make the wheels/sprockets "free spin" so I can get the new chain on there without taking other things apart? What is the easiest method to swap chains without taking it any further apart? With the brake and all of the hydraulic hoses disconnected, I can't start it and slowly drive it to feed the chain on....can I?
Thanks,
Keith
 
I started to get ready for my new chains today, they are being delivered Monday. They are all VERY loose so I will change them all. I ran a magnet down in the oil and found the center pin of one of the chain links all tore up. I am not sure if it is from a current chain or if someone had changed it before and not cleaned it up.
Taking the front chain case cover was not difficult at all. The center one though was more interesting. I had to take off the pedal control bars and also the 2 speed brake. There were several electrical connections and hydraulic hoses going to the brake that I just took loose. I believe that I can change all of the chains without taking the back cover off as there are many hoses and things that would have to be removed.
Questions. Between the front of the chaincase and the chain around the sprocket, there is very little room. Is there a way to make the wheels/sprockets "free spin" so I can get the new chain on there without taking other things apart? What is the easiest method to swap chains without taking it any further apart? With the brake and all of the hydraulic hoses disconnected, I can't start it and slowly drive it to feed the chain on....can I?
Thanks,
Keith
With the chains off, the axles and sprockets will spin freely. The hardest part you will have is removing the old chains. You will need to split them to get them off of you aren't pulling the axles out to remove the sprockets inside.
Sadly, there is no really easy way to do it. Make sure you drain and mop out your chain case too. You will get all the sludge out of the bottom that way.
 
With the chains off, the axles and sprockets will spin freely. The hardest part you will have is removing the old chains. You will need to split them to get them off of you aren't pulling the axles out to remove the sprockets inside.
Sadly, there is no really easy way to do it. Make sure you drain and mop out your chain case too. You will get all the sludge out of the bottom that way.
So if I put it up on jack stands and take the old chains out, I can spin the new chain on the big sprockets. The center chain case with the smaller sprockets should be that bad.
After finding the amount of sludge that is down in there, yes it will definately be drained and cleaned up a bit.
Will a chain breaker fit down in there? Or would it just be easier with an angle grinder?
Thanks for all the help.
Keith
 
So if I put it up on jack stands and take the old chains out, I can spin the new chain on the big sprockets. The center chain case with the smaller sprockets should be that bad.
After finding the amount of sludge that is down in there, yes it will definately be drained and cleaned up a bit.
Will a chain breaker fit down in there? Or would it just be easier with an angle grinder?
Thanks for all the help.
Keith
A chain breaker should fit, but getting it far enough back for the rear chains may be hard, especially getting past the brake discs. I'd rather not go in there with a grinder, all the metal and abrasive particles from the wheel will get everywhere. But if there is no option, you may need the grinder. If cutting was the last option, i'd like to get in there with somethilg like a plasma cutter or oxy torch, even if you need to simply melt through a link with a brazing tip with an oxidising flame, that is if the cutting tip wouldn't fit.
 
A chain breaker should fit, but getting it far enough back for the rear chains may be hard, especially getting past the brake discs. I'd rather not go in there with a grinder, all the metal and abrasive particles from the wheel will get everywhere. But if there is no option, you may need the grinder. If cutting was the last option, i'd like to get in there with somethilg like a plasma cutter or oxy torch, even if you need to simply melt through a link with a brazing tip with an oxidising flame, that is if the cutting tip wouldn't fit.
Thanks to all the help I got all 4 drive chains swapped out today. 3 of them were about 3/4" to 1 1/4" longer than the replacement chains and the other had 2 rollers that were totally gone that I found with a magnet.
Got the chain case covers back on today so I only have the brake to put back on, fill it up anad see how it works.
Thanks again for all the assistance!
 
Thanks to all the help I got all 4 drive chains swapped out today. 3 of them were about 3/4" to 1 1/4" longer than the replacement chains and the other had 2 rollers that were totally gone that I found with a magnet.
Got the chain case covers back on today so I only have the brake to put back on, fill it up anad see how it works.
Thanks again for all the assistance!
Hi I read your thread with interest. I am going to attempt to replace the chains on my 643 I have the front cover off but how did you get to back cover and back chains without removing the main pump? Any advice would be appreciated. Carl
 
Hi I read your thread with interest. I am going to attempt to replace the chains on my 643 I have the front cover off but how did you get to back cover and back chains without removing the main pump? Any advice would be appreciated. Carl
On my 743 you could get to all the bolts a bit tricky but not bad then just wired up the pump
 
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