863 Tilt down 12 seconds slow

[Gregoryoconnor]

My '99 863F Tilt/dump has been getting slower and slower. Last week I got a leak in the seal of the control valve (at the slide (is that a spool?) that hooks to the linkage to the foot pedal). I completed a job and got major air in the system between adding oil to the tank and running it low. I pulled both valves and resealed them with a Bobcat seal kit. All worked well but the dump and lift were kinda slow like prior, untill yesterday when the bucket tilt/dump slowed way down to 12 seconds with a full load of dirt and empty???? I also note that there is limited power in the dump end, like it will not lift the wheels off the ground without more time on the pedal. At the complete end of the stroke it will not strain the motor. Tilt up is quick and has power. I put a new seal on the tilt piston thinking it was by passing and that made no change. One other note,,, I hooked up my 811 hoe. to load it on the trailer so I didnot hook up the ear hooks. I powered the hoe to retract the stabalizers and when I pulled one in to the lock, the tilt ram rocked the 811 hoe back at the cab???? I hope it is not a crack in the valve body? GregoryO'Connor 863 RomolandCalifornia

 

[Tazza]

I have heard problems with an anti-cavitation valve can cause this, I'm not sure where its located exactly though. Basically it comes loose and plugs the port to the ram causing slow operation. The problem would be isolated to lift or tilt though and not lift/tilt/aux. The anti-cav valve is essentially a piece of sheet mental punched out in like a star shape with a hole in the middle, not sure how it works exactly but it does, they can break free and get stuck .
I would seriously doubt the control block is cracked, i have my doubts that one would ever crack unless it was struck somehow.

 

[sterlclan]

I have heard problems with an anti-cavitation valve can cause this, I'm not sure where its located exactly though. Basically it comes loose and plugs the port to the ram causing slow operation. The problem would be isolated to lift or tilt though and not lift/tilt/aux. The anti-cav valve is essentially a piece of sheet mental punched out in like a star shape with a hole in the middle, not sure how it works exactly but it does, they can break free and get stuck .
I would seriously doubt the control block is cracked, i have my doubts that one would ever crack unless it was struck somehow.

could be a linkage problem too worn bushings not letting the valve move far enough???Jeff

 

[Gregoryoconnor]

could be a linkage problem too worn bushings not letting the valve move far enough???Jeff

Thanks for the help. I pulled the entire control valve ( 2 hours) . split the case and replaced all the orings and seals(2hours). there are 4 screwon valves??? that I just replaced over the counter ( didnt test what one was at issue, nor did I understand what they did) . Parts were about $500. I put things back together (3 hours) and the tractor ran like new. I pulled on the detent and could not get the balls back so I ended up taking all 4 out. ( kinda think I need to put them back because the pedal drags a bit???) TIP: When removing the valve that controls the lift you should push on the part that hookes to the linkage and not pull on the cap at the other end. the cap just comes off and the spring loaded balls are very hard to reset. the Oring kits come with extra crap I guess the kits are setup to cover many configurations and model versions. snapping predisasembly digital pics is a must as with reinstall require a sequence of removal to get to various fittings. I wish I took pics of the block prior to bench repair as I was left with only memory to prove replacement of valves. The dealer said it was probably a cracked valve and cost estimate was $3,800. in and out. GregoryO'Connor with $3,300 beer money Scots Landscape

 

[Fishfiles]

Thanks for the help. I pulled the entire control valve ( 2 hours) . split the case and replaced all the orings and seals(2hours). there are 4 screwon valves??? that I just replaced over the counter ( didnt test what one was at issue, nor did I understand what they did) . Parts were about $500. I put things back together (3 hours) and the tractor ran like new. I pulled on the detent and could not get the balls back so I ended up taking all 4 out. ( kinda think I need to put them back because the pedal drags a bit???) TIP: When removing the valve that controls the lift you should push on the part that hookes to the linkage and not pull on the cap at the other end. the cap just comes off and the spring loaded balls are very hard to reset. the Oring kits come with extra crap I guess the kits are setup to cover many configurations and model versions. snapping predisasembly digital pics is a must as with reinstall require a sequence of removal to get to various fittings. I wish I took pics of the block prior to bench repair as I was left with only memory to prove replacement of valves. The dealer said it was probably a cracked valve and cost estimate was $3,800. in and out. GregoryO'Connor with $3,300 beer money Scots Landscape

That's a lot of beer money , you don't drink Coors Lite by any chance and when's the PARTY , --------------the balls and springs can be rough , I have the pliers from Bobcat but use a modified screw driver , took a flat blade medium size and heated it up , beat it thinner and used a center punch to put a dent in it right in the middle , looks like a flat headed spoon , I cock the detent cap so as to have the bootom ball covered by the caps edge , use the tool to hold the top ball over the spring and push and hold it down while you push the cap over the ball , wear safety glasses as it can be like a BB gun messing with them balls , I once I replaced the balls and springs with the valve spool still in the block on the machine , extremely hard but possible , running it with out the outter balls doesn't have any effect on binding it up I know from experience , would see where not having the inner balls and springs in place could but have never been dare