853 control valve questions

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perry

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Makes very good sense, Thanks Tazza......
Tazza, got it all back together and it works like new!, only problem is it's leaking hyd. fluid on all four ends of the lift/tilt spools. I installed new seals with the ribbed ends facing to the inside, I noticed they were a little smaller than the black ones I removed?. I didn't replace the larges o-rings on each (4) end as they looked good?. What do you think the problem is?.
 

Tazza

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Tazza, got it all back together and it works like new!, only problem is it's leaking hyd. fluid on all four ends of the lift/tilt spools. I installed new seals with the ribbed ends facing to the inside, I noticed they were a little smaller than the black ones I removed?. I didn't replace the larges o-rings on each (4) end as they looked good?. What do you think the problem is?.
What colour were they? orange?
I remember my kit coming with a bunch of seals, i think its to cover a few different models. I used the black quad rings, they were the same as what i took out. Could it be that you used the wrong seals from the pack? the lip should face in wards, so you have it the rite way around...
 
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perry

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What colour were they? orange?
I remember my kit coming with a bunch of seals, i think its to cover a few different models. I used the black quad rings, they were the same as what i took out. Could it be that you used the wrong seals from the pack? the lip should face in wards, so you have it the rite way around...
Yes, they are orange. It's what BC sent me, he did mention the part number had changed?. So I guess I have the wrong seals &^%$^^???????.
Oh well, taking it apart again won't be so bad now that I've done it once!.
I should ask for the black ones...correct?.
 
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perry

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Yes, they are orange. It's what BC sent me, he did mention the part number had changed?. So I guess I have the wrong seals &^%$^^???????.
Oh well, taking it apart again won't be so bad now that I've done it once!.
I should ask for the black ones...correct?.
I ordered just the seals, I didn't know there was a kit?.
 

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I ordered just the seals, I didn't know there was a kit?.
My 743 had a kit, it covered a few machines not sure if it covers yours too.....
Well mine used black quad rings, i suspect thats what you removed?
 

Fishfiles

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I guess you know by now that there is a second set of balls and spring that are under the collar that holds the spring in place with an allen headed bolt to the end of the spool , the detent collar should not have any grooves cut into it from the balls and spring moving in and out , see a lot of them that need to be replaced as it will cause the balls to lock up and jump out the bore , upon disaasembling the boom spool -don't grap ad pull on the cap as the spring and balls will jump out , push the spool thru from the front and then grap the spool in the rear as it becomes exposed ------I had the bobcat spring tool but miss placed, lost or was ripped off of it , I got a system that works pretty good putting in the balls , but it is kinda hard to explain , put the collar in a vise , cock the collar so that it covers one hole with a ball and spring in place , have the end of the spool against your stomach , place the second ball on top the spring which is sticking out a 1/4 " , use a screw driver side ways and push the ball down into the bore as you push in on the spool with your stomach, works better than the tool once you master it , if you take a medium sized flat screw driver and put a little heat to it and then center punch the blade over a slightly open vise jaw , you can make a kida spoon blade which helps to do this , one thing to be aware of , doing it like this can be like looking down the barrel of a BB gun so wear glasses that are impact proof ------there are quite aafew different seals , some are interchangeable , some not , even with the serial number I have been given wrong ones , some used a orange looking color seal that was thinner material than others , those require a special bobcat tool , which I have ad it works nicely , to install them with out cutting them while pushing them over the spool and pass over the cut outs , you can do it with out the tool but care should be taken -------you talked about also having 4 orings , have never seen that , some newer machines have an oring under the seal /boot collar on the front side only , not on the back , have seen where people had rebuilt the valve and had more than one seal on each side of the spool , probally they installed the wrong seal to start with and came back and added another on top of it and screwed it down , I would think you probally need the green seals unless that machine is really old and then the orange ones , but it is possible you need the thin orange ones and screwed them up installing them , who knows , to buy a whole seal kit is kinda a waste of money , they use to be around $100 plus and it has every oring , of every fitting , plug , relief , ect. , even new bolts , you won't need 90% of what you get , does make for good part box fillers -----------all machines are different as how much stuff you have to move to get the spools out so there is no set time on changing the seals , but I am pretty proud of my person best time record a few weeks back , changed tilt and boom spool seals on a 763 and replaced one set of balls and spring in 44 minutes , I did use impact to remove and reinstall the steering cowl and 1/4 air rachet for the caps and dust boots allen screws --------- to make a mistake once is human , to make the same mistake twice is stupid , get it done this time , pare'ree
 
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perry

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I guess you know by now that there is a second set of balls and spring that are under the collar that holds the spring in place with an allen headed bolt to the end of the spool , the detent collar should not have any grooves cut into it from the balls and spring moving in and out , see a lot of them that need to be replaced as it will cause the balls to lock up and jump out the bore , upon disaasembling the boom spool -don't grap ad pull on the cap as the spring and balls will jump out , push the spool thru from the front and then grap the spool in the rear as it becomes exposed ------I had the bobcat spring tool but miss placed, lost or was ripped off of it , I got a system that works pretty good putting in the balls , but it is kinda hard to explain , put the collar in a vise , cock the collar so that it covers one hole with a ball and spring in place , have the end of the spool against your stomach , place the second ball on top the spring which is sticking out a 1/4 " , use a screw driver side ways and push the ball down into the bore as you push in on the spool with your stomach, works better than the tool once you master it , if you take a medium sized flat screw driver and put a little heat to it and then center punch the blade over a slightly open vise jaw , you can make a kida spoon blade which helps to do this , one thing to be aware of , doing it like this can be like looking down the barrel of a BB gun so wear glasses that are impact proof ------there are quite aafew different seals , some are interchangeable , some not , even with the serial number I have been given wrong ones , some used a orange looking color seal that was thinner material than others , those require a special bobcat tool , which I have ad it works nicely , to install them with out cutting them while pushing them over the spool and pass over the cut outs , you can do it with out the tool but care should be taken -------you talked about also having 4 orings , have never seen that , some newer machines have an oring under the seal /boot collar on the front side only , not on the back , have seen where people had rebuilt the valve and had more than one seal on each side of the spool , probally they installed the wrong seal to start with and came back and added another on top of it and screwed it down , I would think you probally need the green seals unless that machine is really old and then the orange ones , but it is possible you need the thin orange ones and screwed them up installing them , who knows , to buy a whole seal kit is kinda a waste of money , they use to be around $100 plus and it has every oring , of every fitting , plug , relief , ect. , even new bolts , you won't need 90% of what you get , does make for good part box fillers -----------all machines are different as how much stuff you have to move to get the spools out so there is no set time on changing the seals , but I am pretty proud of my person best time record a few weeks back , changed tilt and boom spool seals on a 763 and replaced one set of balls and spring in 44 minutes , I did use impact to remove and reinstall the steering cowl and 1/4 air rachet for the caps and dust boots allen screws --------- to make a mistake once is human , to make the same mistake twice is stupid , get it done this time , pare'ree
Yes, I removed 'black' seals which were working perfectly, I even thought about using them again because there were no leaks!!, replaced with the (wrong) orange ones.
I did find the other balls and spring when I depressed the collar, after looking around in my garage for something to hold the collar while I cleaned and installed new balls, I picked up one of my welding vise grips, it has long jaws and there shaped like a 'U' which just happen to fit perfectly. Using grease is also a big help.
The collar had absolutely no wear from the bearings engaging the detent and riding in-out, 'Three' balls fell out when I disassembled the lift spool and now after dis-assembly, reading and communicating with Tazza and you..... I know it had been previously rebuilt by another, so called.....professional. I don't understand how someone tries to operate a business and turns out garbage service?.
Fish, I mentioned to Tazza that after reassembly, it operates like a new machine, just a matter of the seals and I'm back in business. Live and learn.
 
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perry

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Yes, I removed 'black' seals which were working perfectly, I even thought about using them again because there were no leaks!!, replaced with the (wrong) orange ones.
I did find the other balls and spring when I depressed the collar, after looking around in my garage for something to hold the collar while I cleaned and installed new balls, I picked up one of my welding vise grips, it has long jaws and there shaped like a 'U' which just happen to fit perfectly. Using grease is also a big help.
The collar had absolutely no wear from the bearings engaging the detent and riding in-out, 'Three' balls fell out when I disassembled the lift spool and now after dis-assembly, reading and communicating with Tazza and you..... I know it had been previously rebuilt by another, so called.....professional. I don't understand how someone tries to operate a business and turns out garbage service?.
Fish, I mentioned to Tazza that after reassembly, it operates like a new machine, just a matter of the seals and I'm back in business. Live and learn.
I must have fixed the tilt?, it was leaking down?. I noticed it this morning when I went out to look and it was still in the up position, well almost, it leaked down only about 3 inches. Tazza, I remember you saying something about what to do to fix the leak down problem, but I don't remember exactly what?. Since I'm taking the control out tomorrow, what was it you said to do.
Thanks
 

mllud

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I must have fixed the tilt?, it was leaking down?. I noticed it this morning when I went out to look and it was still in the up position, well almost, it leaked down only about 3 inches. Tazza, I remember you saying something about what to do to fix the leak down problem, but I don't remember exactly what?. Since I'm taking the control out tomorrow, what was it you said to do.
Thanks
Perry
I think I remember Tazza telling someone else that the load checks can cause leak down. On the control block on my N/H there is three allen head plugs/caps on the top of the block.
Im sure Tazza will help you. Iv been following your repair. Sounds like you almost have it. Mike
 

Tazza

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Perry
I think I remember Tazza telling someone else that the load checks can cause leak down. On the control block on my N/H there is three allen head plugs/caps on the top of the block.
Im sure Tazza will help you. Iv been following your repair. Sounds like you almost have it. Mike
Exactly, the load checks. They should look like a bolt inside the control block housing on the same side as the outlet ports. 2 per segment, one for up one for down essentially. The seals can fall apart causing leak down of your cylinders.
 
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perry

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Exactly, the load checks. They should look like a bolt inside the control block housing on the same side as the outlet ports. 2 per segment, one for up one for down essentially. The seals can fall apart causing leak down of your cylinders.
I'll just go ahead and get the complete kit, even with the leaking I was very pleased with the operation..the float works perfectly and the paddles are operating smooth.

Thanks for all the assistance.......
 
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perry

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I'll just go ahead and get the complete kit, even with the leaking I was very pleased with the operation..the float works perfectly and the paddles are operating smooth.

Thanks for all the assistance.......
Well I got the supposedly right seals today......NO!, there black and small as the orange ones?. I reinstalled the ones I took out, there larger?. Anyway, it doesn't leak and operating just fine. I keep saying I'm not going to do business with bobcat anymore?? one day I'll learn.
 

Tazza

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Well I got the supposedly right seals today......NO!, there black and small as the orange ones?. I reinstalled the ones I took out, there larger?. Anyway, it doesn't leak and operating just fine. I keep saying I'm not going to do business with bobcat anymore?? one day I'll learn.
The sad thing is I'm actually hearing this more often. I know a guy down the coast that works on Bobcats and he as always bitching about the new people they put on in the spares section. If you give them a part number its not an issue! But finding the part number isn't always so easy. Even *seasoned* workers don't always know just what section they need to look in to find the part. "Bobcat parts manager" thats on the forum has told me that they keep changing the system on them, no doubt things move from where they are used to looking for the items. He even told me the new system is a nightmare to use now....... Its a shame they don't talk to the people that will be using the system as they know best.
I know parts are different between different serial numbers too, i am having some fun with my local dealer with a guy that knows his stuff! He is working on finding me a parts list for a control block, even with the serial number i got the wrong parts diagram.
Glad your control block is now fixed! shame you had a bad experience....
 
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perry

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The sad thing is I'm actually hearing this more often. I know a guy down the coast that works on Bobcats and he as always bitching about the new people they put on in the spares section. If you give them a part number its not an issue! But finding the part number isn't always so easy. Even *seasoned* workers don't always know just what section they need to look in to find the part. "Bobcat parts manager" thats on the forum has told me that they keep changing the system on them, no doubt things move from where they are used to looking for the items. He even told me the new system is a nightmare to use now....... Its a shame they don't talk to the people that will be using the system as they know best.
I know parts are different between different serial numbers too, i am having some fun with my local dealer with a guy that knows his stuff! He is working on finding me a parts list for a control block, even with the serial number i got the wrong parts diagram.
Glad your control block is now fixed! shame you had a bad experience....
One last question Tazza, I didn't order the complete kit and just wondered if the right seals are in the kit?.
 

Tazza

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One last question Tazza, I didn't order the complete kit and just wondered if the right seals are in the kit?.
If you got the rite kit for your machine i can't see why they wouldn't be rite! I have never had to buy a full kit to re-build a control block. I have a great seal shop about 20 mins away that i get all my ram seals and O rings. With that said, i have had problems with spool quad rings though, they measured the old ones and gave me new ones, they worked a treat but i have a leak on my aux spool out the back. I don't know if i stuffed up or there was a problem with the seal. I did get an OEM kit from Bobcat (thanks mark) and the seals were exactly the same, i think the Bobcat ones may be a little better than the normal ones you get off the shelf. If i did it again i would go genuine for all the spool seals but the other O rings i wouldn't have a problem using after market ones as these parts do not move, once the seal they shouldn't leak again, until they age.
 
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