7753 outer wheel bearing

[Damien]

My right front wheel bearing (assumption) is starting to intermittently crick and creek. If I pull of the hub and seal will I be able to get the bearing out, or will if have to go in the chaincase to remove the axel nut/sprocket etc. to move the axel to get clearance to pull the outer bearing. I've download this section of the service manual but it only explains how to pull it with the axel moved. I really have to change the chaincase oil, and was hoping to get to it before I do a client's driveway this Tuesday/Wednesday, won't have the time/money for the bearing repair by then, and don't wan't to drain the chaincase twice. BTW would generic hydraulic oil be fine for the chaincase or would 10w30 be better?? Any help appreciated, Thanks.

 

[Fishfiles]

yes , I can get the outter bearing out unless it is extremely seized to the axle , if the outter bearing failed you are going to have a lot of ground up metal in the tube pushed into the inner bearing , if so I'd do in and out at the same time

 

[Damien]

yes , I can get the outter bearing out unless it is extremely seized to the axle , if the outter bearing failed you are going to have a lot of ground up metal in the tube pushed into the inner bearing , if so I'd do in and out at the same time

I'm hoping its not a bearing "failure" at this point but more like worn race or something, as it has JUST begun making noice once and a while. Supposing I do the inner one as well, does that necessitate draining the chaincase or can I get away with leaving the fluid in? As I mentioned, I plan(ned) on changing the chaincase oil tonight or tomorrow (as its pretty dire), but not dealing with the bearing quite yet, and I'd like to avoid changing that oil twice? Any feedback on the type of oil in the chaincase (ie. generic hydraulic vs. 10w30 motor oil)? Thanks for the reply.

 

[jerry]

I'm hoping its not a bearing "failure" at this point but more like worn race or something, as it has JUST begun making noice once and a while. Supposing I do the inner one as well, does that necessitate draining the chaincase or can I get away with leaving the fluid in? As I mentioned, I plan(ned) on changing the chaincase oil tonight or tomorrow (as its pretty dire), but not dealing with the bearing quite yet, and I'd like to avoid changing that oil twice? Any feedback on the type of oil in the chaincase (ie. generic hydraulic vs. 10w30 motor oil)? Thanks for the reply.

New oil will fix nothing, if the chain case oil is dire as you say chances are the problem that is making the noise is either caused by the dirty oil or else causing it so if you change just the oil it will contaminate the new oil also. If it is making noise you can hear while driving it chances are it has to be fixed first.

 

[Fishfiles]

I'm hoping its not a bearing "failure" at this point but more like worn race or something, as it has JUST begun making noice once and a while. Supposing I do the inner one as well, does that necessitate draining the chaincase or can I get away with leaving the fluid in? As I mentioned, I plan(ned) on changing the chaincase oil tonight or tomorrow (as its pretty dire), but not dealing with the bearing quite yet, and I'd like to avoid changing that oil twice? Any feedback on the type of oil in the chaincase (ie. generic hydraulic vs. 10w30 motor oil)? Thanks for the reply.

it calls for 10 w 30 , I'd stick with that

 

[Damien]

it calls for 10 w 30 , I'd stick with that

Thanks guys, I'm not hoping to fix anything by replacing the oil, I just can't bear to drive it another 10 feet with the contaminated milk that's in there now. I don't know if its ever been done in the machine's 2000 hours. Getting the bearing(s)/seal etc. here will take close to a week, and I still need to use it before then. I guess I'll have to call this oil change a "flush" and redo it if need be. Not cheap, but I need to get that old oil (if it can still be called that) out of there as its doing nothing any good. Cheers.

 

[Damien]

Thanks guys, I'm not hoping to fix anything by replacing the oil, I just can't bear to drive it another 10 feet with the contaminated milk that's in there now. I don't know if its ever been done in the machine's 2000 hours. Getting the bearing(s)/seal etc. here will take close to a week, and I still need to use it before then. I guess I'll have to call this oil change a "flush" and redo it if need be. Not cheap, but I need to get that old oil (if it can still be called that) out of there as its doing nothing any good. Cheers.

As I was draining the last bit of chaincase oil, I had the front wheels of the ground, I wiggled the one with the questionable bearing, and... it turns out that it was just the Lug Nuts that were loose! I feel pretty dumb for not checking those first, but at the same time, Yee Haa! I love an easy fix. In fact the lugs on all the wheels were kinda loose except for the one tire that I had replaced last month. Nonetheless thanks for the reply

 

[gtstang462002]

As I was draining the last bit of chaincase oil, I had the front wheels of the ground, I wiggled the one with the questionable bearing, and... it turns out that it was just the Lug Nuts that were loose! I feel pretty dumb for not checking those first, but at the same time, Yee Haa! I love an easy fix. In fact the lugs on all the wheels were kinda loose except for the one tire that I had replaced last month. Nonetheless thanks for the reply

If the machine is used daily, I would check the lugs weekly. It only takes a min, but can save you a fortune.