773 G Axle issue

[bhaugen]

I noticed i had some slop in the left rear axle so I took the tire and hub off and I found the keyway in the shaft has a lot of slop in it. If I want to fix it right, it looks like I would have to replace the hub and shaft. any ideas on cost, and how hard is it to do. Copy the following to your browser to see a picture of it: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/bhaugen/temporary-4.jpg

 

[OldMachinist]

Was the hub loose and came off easy? You should have had to press the hub off with a portapower or bottle jacks. If it was loose the taper on the end of the shaft may be buggered along with the mating taper in the hub.

 

[bhaugen]

Was the hub loose and came off easy? You should have had to press the hub off with a portapower or bottle jacks. If it was loose the taper on the end of the shaft may be buggered along with the mating taper in the hub.

the hub was loose and came right off. The bolt that holds it on was tight, when I fitted things back up, the end of the shaft was mushroomed out some. I cleaned that up with a grinder, and the hub is tight again with the bolt, but I would imagine it will work loose again. I noticed the other day using it in some snow I still have in my yard the rear appeared to be slipping. and sure enough it appears the shaft has been rotating on the hub.

 

[OldMachinist]

the hub was loose and came right off. The bolt that holds it on was tight, when I fitted things back up, the end of the shaft was mushroomed out some. I cleaned that up with a grinder, and the hub is tight again with the bolt, but I would imagine it will work loose again. I noticed the other day using it in some snow I still have in my yard the rear appeared to be slipping. and sure enough it appears the shaft has been rotating on the hub.

The hub bolt gets torqued to 725-800 ft lbs. That's right I said 725-800. I had one that the hub kept coming loose on until I discovered hole in the axle wasn't tapped deep enough so it wasn't tightening right.

 

[Tazza]

The hub bolt gets torqued to 725-800 ft lbs. That's right I said 725-800. I had one that the hub kept coming loose on until I discovered hole in the axle wasn't tapped deep enough so it wasn't tightening right.

When i first saw it i thought you did a good job getting the hub off, most people struggle with it. Then i kept reading......
I can't tell you the cost of a hub and axle, you will need to hit up the dealer and see what they have to say. The job isn't hard, but it isn't easy either. You will need new bearings and a seal too.
I guess it aldo depends on what you use the machine for. If it's home use and you are happy to have a stab at repairing it, there is a way i can think of that may work. I'm sure OldMachinist will want to smack me over the back of the head. Most machinists don't like using bolts threaded along the join of a shaft, but it can work.
I don't know how hard the axle is either, so a drill bit may not touch it, but i'd see if the taper still fits pretty well, put it on and tap it in place, see if it's pretty solid. If so, i'd get some quality loctite, clean both surfaces and put them together, even use the bolt to push it in place. Then drill a hole along the join of the taper to act as a key. Thread it and install a grub screw, install the main bolt and hopefully it won't loosen up. Make sure the grub screw goes along the line of the taper so you get more surface area.
Hopefully some of that makes sense.
If replacing the axle, hub, bearings and seal is affordable, i'd go that way. You have nothing to loose with the other option, if it doesn't work, you have only lost some time.

 

[Fishfiles]

When i first saw it i thought you did a good job getting the hub off, most people struggle with it. Then i kept reading......
I can't tell you the cost of a hub and axle, you will need to hit up the dealer and see what they have to say. The job isn't hard, but it isn't easy either. You will need new bearings and a seal too.
I guess it aldo depends on what you use the machine for. If it's home use and you are happy to have a stab at repairing it, there is a way i can think of that may work. I'm sure OldMachinist will want to smack me over the back of the head. Most machinists don't like using bolts threaded along the join of a shaft, but it can work.
I don't know how hard the axle is either, so a drill bit may not touch it, but i'd see if the taper still fits pretty well, put it on and tap it in place, see if it's pretty solid. If so, i'd get some quality loctite, clean both surfaces and put them together, even use the bolt to push it in place. Then drill a hole along the join of the taper to act as a key. Thread it and install a grub screw, install the main bolt and hopefully it won't loosen up. Make sure the grub screw goes along the line of the taper so you get more surface area.
Hopefully some of that makes sense.
If replacing the axle, hub, bearings and seal is affordable, i'd go that way. You have nothing to loose with the other option, if it doesn't work, you have only lost some time.

put JB Weld or such around the key and assemble then weld the hub to the axle , it is already messed up , if you ever have to take it apart again you just grind the weld

 

[bhaugen]

put JB Weld or such around the key and assemble then weld the hub to the axle , it is already messed up , if you ever have to take it apart again you just grind the weld

I have thought about some of those temp repairs, I just know there is a lot of torque on that shaft. I will see what the dealer wants to fix it right. There about a 1/16" lateral play in the bearings, so the bearings are not in good shape either. I don't know if I have the time to tackle this myself, if I did it would be nice to have a manual.

 

[Tazza]

I have thought about some of those temp repairs, I just know there is a lot of torque on that shaft. I will see what the dealer wants to fix it right. There about a 1/16" lateral play in the bearings, so the bearings are not in good shape either. I don't know if I have the time to tackle this myself, if I did it would be nice to have a manual.

You don't need a manual for that.
The hardest part is removing the bolt inside the chain case. There are two ways you can do it, but it's your choice. Remove the rear inspection cover, drain the chain case oil. The bolt should be 1 1/8", use a ring spanner and put it on the bolt. Have the machine blocked so the wheels can spin. Start the engine, press the traction lock overide button and slowly move the steering lever to un-do the bolt. The other way of un-doing it involves removeing the park brake and removing the drive motor so the axle will spin.
Using the machine to remove the bolt isn't as safe, but it was a bobcat mechanic that told me this way, but be careful doing it.
To pull the axle out, put the hub on and use a bottle jack with the pump facing down, pump it up behind the axle studs and it will pull the shaft out. Replace the axle and bearings, push the axle in but ensure you engage the rear sprocket as you do so or else you will not get the chain back on without splitting it. Bolt it back up the reverse.
Now put your axle seal in from the outside, clean the taper of the hub and axle and re-install it with the bolt. Check for any end play, if there is, you need to either machine the washer on the end of the axle or buy one from the dealer. They have ones with different sizes removed to take up any slack.
Good luck with whatever way you go.

 

[mrdeere1959]

You don't need a manual for that.
The hardest part is removing the bolt inside the chain case. There are two ways you can do it, but it's your choice. Remove the rear inspection cover, drain the chain case oil. The bolt should be 1 1/8", use a ring spanner and put it on the bolt. Have the machine blocked so the wheels can spin. Start the engine, press the traction lock overide button and slowly move the steering lever to un-do the bolt. The other way of un-doing it involves removeing the park brake and removing the drive motor so the axle will spin.
Using the machine to remove the bolt isn't as safe, but it was a bobcat mechanic that told me this way, but be careful doing it.
To pull the axle out, put the hub on and use a bottle jack with the pump facing down, pump it up behind the axle studs and it will pull the shaft out. Replace the axle and bearings, push the axle in but ensure you engage the rear sprocket as you do so or else you will not get the chain back on without splitting it. Bolt it back up the reverse.
Now put your axle seal in from the outside, clean the taper of the hub and axle and re-install it with the bolt. Check for any end play, if there is, you need to either machine the washer on the end of the axle or buy one from the dealer. They have ones with different sizes removed to take up any slack.
Good luck with whatever way you go.

the axle is 263 and the hub is 212 dollars

 

[Tazza]

the axle is 263 and the hub is 212 dollars

That doesn't sound as bad as i'd have thought. 2 cups, 2 cones, one key and an axle seal.

 

[bhaugen]

That doesn't sound as bad as i'd have thought. 2 cups, 2 cones, one key and an axle seal.

through Bobcat they want around $650 in parts axle, bearings,seals, and hub, and about 8-9 hrs in labor at $100/hr in labor. I found a shop for $55/hr and he deals in bobcat used parts also. It sounds like he parts out and sells salvage parts. I wish I had a little more tools and time I might tackle this myself, but I have too many things going on.

 

[Tazza]

through Bobcat they want around $650 in parts axle, bearings,seals, and hub, and about 8-9 hrs in labor at $100/hr in labor. I found a shop for $55/hr and he deals in bobcat used parts also. It sounds like he parts out and sells salvage parts. I wish I had a little more tools and time I might tackle this myself, but I have too many things going on.

I honestly can't see it taking 8-9 hours to do that. They work on them all day, that is a few hours tops.
$55/hour sounds good, used parts sound equally good too.
I know what you mean about time, it just seems to get away from you some times.

 

[bhaugen]

I honestly can't see it taking 8-9 hours to do that. They work on them all day, that is a few hours tops.
$55/hour sounds good, used parts sound equally good too.
I know what you mean about time, it just seems to get away from you some times.

Well its fixed. The shop charged me $780 for the job, used axle, and hub. This machine has had issues in the past, the chain case has some prior damage that was fixed in the past from one or both chains breaking. I also had foam filled tires on it, and according to the repair guy, this can cause the very issue that I had. So I swapped some tires and he gave me $200 in credit for the foam filled over the air filled tires I got.

 

[bhaugen]

Well its fixed. The shop charged me $780 for the job, used axle, and hub. This machine has had issues in the past, the chain case has some prior damage that was fixed in the past from one or both chains breaking. I also had foam filled tires on it, and according to the repair guy, this can cause the very issue that I had. So I swapped some tires and he gave me $200 in credit for the foam filled over the air filled tires I got.

Also I forgot I bought the wiring harness for operating attachments.

 

[Tazza]

Also I forgot I bought the wiring harness for operating attachments.

I think that was a very fair price.
Solid wheels are very hard on axles and bearings, good move changing them over. Solids have their place, where they are subject to constant punctures especially.

 

[Chandler]

Well its fixed. The shop charged me $780 for the job, used axle, and hub. This machine has had issues in the past, the chain case has some prior damage that was fixed in the past from one or both chains breaking. I also had foam filled tires on it, and according to the repair guy, this can cause the very issue that I had. So I swapped some tires and he gave me $200 in credit for the foam filled over the air filled tires I got.

I have ran into the same problem with my 2001 773 front axle and hub. I had the seals repaired and some other repairs made at a Bobcat dealer about six months ago and had only used it a couple times when the front wheel came loose. I tightened it up and it came loose again later on another job, so I tightened it up again. But, the next job I was working we noticed it was loose again. This time when I took the wheel off the key was gone and the keyway on the axle and the hub was enlarged. I wondered if the service techs didn't get the axle bolt tight enough. Anyway I am trying to find a used axle and hub with low hours on them and would like to know if I have to replace them with 773 model parts or if 753, 763 or other model parts will work.

 

[wbecker]

I have ran into the same problem with my 2001 773 front axle and hub. I had the seals repaired and some other repairs made at a Bobcat dealer about six months ago and had only used it a couple times when the front wheel came loose. I tightened it up and it came loose again later on another job, so I tightened it up again. But, the next job I was working we noticed it was loose again. This time when I took the wheel off the key was gone and the keyway on the axle and the hub was enlarged. I wondered if the service techs didn't get the axle bolt tight enough. Anyway I am trying to find a used axle and hub with low hours on them and would like to know if I have to replace them with 773 model parts or if 753, 763 or other model parts will work.

Check eBay, I just saw an axle and hub assembly with 600 hrs on it for $300. Search "bobcat axle assembly fits 753", may be the same as other models. Several other axle/hub assemblys on eBay.

 

[Chandler]

I honestly can't see it taking 8-9 hours to do that. They work on them all day, that is a few hours tops.
$55/hour sounds good, used parts sound equally good too.
I know what you mean about time, it just seems to get away from you some times.

Can someone tell me if a 753 and a 773 axle assembly is interchangeable?

 

[OldMachinist]

Can someone tell me if a 753 and a 773 axle assembly is interchangeable?

Only the 753 with serial #512211005 thru 512211999 used the same axle(6706427) as the 773.

S150, S160, S175, S185 and S205 models all used the same 6706427 axle.