743 hydraulic fluid pressure switch and coolant sender disconnected

[MaxW]

I used the Google Chrome browser, right clicked on the photo on Photobucket and got "inspect element". I then copied the highlighted {img src=.........} line of code using <> instead of {} and then pasted it into the Skidsteer post. Now I'll try tripling the pixel size to get a larger size of Tazza's photo. The water coolant sender has the wire coming off the top of it.

There ya go, you're posting pictures!

Another thing I've had to do manually is use the line break code {BR} to add a bit of format to my posts.
I'm sure there is a setting somewhere that makes this unnecessary but I haven't found it.

As for the temp gauge, the one in our 443B was stuck, the needle would move a little and then jam.
The gauge is made by Faria, and you see these in a lot of marine applications. What is inside them is pretty low tech, a couple resistors, a zener diode. The needle movement is a cylindrical magnet mounted in a cheap plastic frame with wire wound around it.
If the nuts connecting the wires on the back of the gauge are a bit tight they will twist the brass studs which distorts or breaks the cheap plastic frame jamming the gauge. Faria even mentions this in one of their trouble shooting guides.
So just snug up the nuts holding the wires to the brass posts.

Also, if you need to test the gauge itself, you can substitute a fixed resistor for the sender wire to simulate a temperature. With the Faria temp gauge I had I used a 100 ohm, 47 ohm and 27 ohm resistors to simulate low, mid, and high readings on the gauge. The resistances may vary with the type of gauge, but the idea is the same. The test resistor is used instead of the sender, so you disconnect the wire at the sender, connect the wire to one end of the resistor and the other end of the resistor is grounded.
Since you are replacing both the sender and the gauge you should not have to do anything more then just hook it all up. Good luck.

 

[Tazza]

There ya go, you're posting pictures!

Another thing I've had to do manually is use the line break code {BR} to add a bit of format to my posts.
I'm sure there is a setting somewhere that makes this unnecessary but I haven't found it.

As for the temp gauge, the one in our 443B was stuck, the needle would move a little and then jam.
The gauge is made by Faria, and you see these in a lot of marine applications. What is inside them is pretty low tech, a couple resistors, a zener diode. The needle movement is a cylindrical magnet mounted in a cheap plastic frame with wire wound around it.
If the nuts connecting the wires on the back of the gauge are a bit tight they will twist the brass studs which distorts or breaks the cheap plastic frame jamming the gauge. Faria even mentions this in one of their trouble shooting guides.
So just snug up the nuts holding the wires to the brass posts.

Also, if you need to test the gauge itself, you can substitute a fixed resistor for the sender wire to simulate a temperature. With the Faria temp gauge I had I used a 100 ohm, 47 ohm and 27 ohm resistors to simulate low, mid, and high readings on the gauge. The resistances may vary with the type of gauge, but the idea is the same. The test resistor is used instead of the sender, so you disconnect the wire at the sender, connect the wire to one end of the resistor and the other end of the resistor is grounded.
Since you are replacing both the sender and the gauge you should not have to do anything more then just hook it all up. Good luck.

Glad the pictures came through ok. They were done on my phone, so the quality is far from great, but at least you can see where things are.
Good work on the picture posting too.

 

[mahans7]

Glad the pictures came through ok. They were done on my phone, so the quality is far from great, but at least you can see where things are.
Good work on the picture posting too.

Thanks again Taryn, now I know exactly where the sender is. I appreciate the time and effort you took and the picture quality from your phone was quite good. {BR}Max, thanks for the info on the Faria temperature gauge, I had no idea there was this much to a simple gauge. I've also used the HTML line break in this post thanks to you. We'll see if it works.

 

[mahans7]

Thanks again Taryn, now I know exactly where the sender is. I appreciate the time and effort you took and the picture quality from your phone was quite good. {BR}Max, thanks for the info on the Faria temperature gauge, I had no idea there was this much to a simple gauge. I've also used the HTML line break in this post thanks to you. We'll see if it works.

Whoops. I need to change the {BR} to <>.
I'll try again.

 

[Tazza]

Whoops. I need to change the {BR} to <>.
I'll try again.

Not an issue, hope it sorted you out and you get the machine running with a working gauge

 

[donald73d]

Not an issue, hope it sorted you out and you get the machine running with a working gauge

I would replace the tiny light bulbs in the oil and hydraulic pressure warning lights. They do not last forever and they could be very important. I had some burned out and did not know it. I had saw dust in a couple of my gauges and replaced them. The voltmeter would be fine to 12V and then go no further. I was sure it was an alternator problem and removed it and brought it to a place to have it tested. It was fine. Replaced the gauge and all was fine.

 

[mahans7]

I would replace the tiny light bulbs in the oil and hydraulic pressure warning lights. They do not last forever and they could be very important. I had some burned out and did not know it. I had saw dust in a couple of my gauges and replaced them. The voltmeter would be fine to 12V and then go no further. I was sure it was an alternator problem and removed it and brought it to a place to have it tested. It was fine. Replaced the gauge and all was fine.

Donald, both the oil indicator and hydraulic warnng lights light up when the ignition switch is on, before starting the engine. But if they stop lighting I'll change them. Thanks.