743 how to control attachments

[fyredetcv]

Have an older series 743 diesel bobcat, unit has hyd. conn. on side , what controls the hyd. outputs to angle the blade, as i have foot controls (no switches on arms) ? Just bought a plow blade and need to start using. Also do i need some sort of restrictor for fluid preassures as I am told this is high preassure ?? Thanks for any and all help

 

[Fishfiles]

you push the steering lever to the sides , I believe it is to the right that will detent and lock the aux on , if the aux has never been used before then there may be a 3/8 bolt and nut in the linkage which has to be removed before it will work

 

[fairmountvewe]

I literally just finished putting the aux control rod on my 743 between the hydraulic valve and the steering lever. Not the easiest I have ever done. You may want to open up the cab (2 bolts in the front corners of the cab), and check to make sure the operating rod is there. It should go from a gimbel mount on the steering lever to the bottom section of the hydraulic valve. I can get a picture if you need it. Good luck.

 

[jimhumphries]

I literally just finished putting the aux control rod on my 743 between the hydraulic valve and the steering lever. Not the easiest I have ever done. You may want to open up the cab (2 bolts in the front corners of the cab), and check to make sure the operating rod is there. It should go from a gimbel mount on the steering lever to the bottom section of the hydraulic valve. I can get a picture if you need it. Good luck.

Yes - right hand steering control to the right or left to control the auxiliary and hard right for detent (constant on). I have the replacement control rod for my 743 but haven't installed it yet because it looks like such a major job. Any pics you could post or advice you can give based on you experience would be much appreciated!!

 

[fairmountvewe]

Yes - right hand steering control to the right or left to control the auxiliary and hard right for detent (constant on). I have the replacement control rod for my 743 but haven't installed it yet because it looks like such a major job. Any pics you could post or advice you can give based on you experience would be much appreciated!!

Jim; It is not that hard, just very uncomfortable. It took me a couple of hours from start to finish, but all we have for a work space is an un-heated drive shed, so the propane heater earned her keep believe me. Here is how I did it - 1) Lift the cab. I do not have cylinder stops for my machine yet, so I left the arms down. Some stuff may be easier to do with the arms raised (work on the gimbal end) but this wasn't an option for me. Good old fashioned contortionism for this kid. 2) Remove the hydraulic line at the top center of your pump. This will give you just enough room to fit your hand down to put the clevis pin through the valve shaft 3) preassemble the operating rod. I put the gimbal end all the way in and still ended up with about 3/8 in of threaded rod sticking out the clevis end to get the right distance after taking it apart about 3 times 4) Attach the gimbal end to the control handle. I had to remove the pivot bolt from the control handle to put the bolt for the operating rod in. According to the parts book, it goes bolt, control handle frame, spacer, gimbal end, nut. That is what I did. Seems to work okay. 5) attach the clevis end to the hydraulic valve (bottom position). I had to make a clevis pin out of a 1/4 X 3 in bolt, so mine is not as fancy as the store bought one. I used a set of forceps to put the clevis pin in the clevis. That actually went quite smootly. I think a pair of needle nosed vice grips would work as well It is a lot of finicky reaching and bending and I'll bet that having a second person to hold a handle or reach a wrench would be helpful, but my sweetheart is in the middle of Christmas baking, and no amount of pleading was going to get her in her barn clothes and come out to freeze her butt off and help me. Probably the most frustrating thing was playing with the length of the operating rod. I had it too long, and the valve only worked in one direction, so I had to disassemble the clevis end a couple of times to adjust it shorter. I have a couple of things to do today, but I will try and snap some pictures and put them up. Good luck.

 

[jimhumphries]

Jim; It is not that hard, just very uncomfortable. It took me a couple of hours from start to finish, but all we have for a work space is an un-heated drive shed, so the propane heater earned her keep believe me. Here is how I did it - 1) Lift the cab. I do not have cylinder stops for my machine yet, so I left the arms down. Some stuff may be easier to do with the arms raised (work on the gimbal end) but this wasn't an option for me. Good old fashioned contortionism for this kid. 2) Remove the hydraulic line at the top center of your pump. This will give you just enough room to fit your hand down to put the clevis pin through the valve shaft 3) preassemble the operating rod. I put the gimbal end all the way in and still ended up with about 3/8 in of threaded rod sticking out the clevis end to get the right distance after taking it apart about 3 times 4) Attach the gimbal end to the control handle. I had to remove the pivot bolt from the control handle to put the bolt for the operating rod in. According to the parts book, it goes bolt, control handle frame, spacer, gimbal end, nut. That is what I did. Seems to work okay. 5) attach the clevis end to the hydraulic valve (bottom position). I had to make a clevis pin out of a 1/4 X 3 in bolt, so mine is not as fancy as the store bought one. I used a set of forceps to put the clevis pin in the clevis. That actually went quite smootly. I think a pair of needle nosed vice grips would work as well It is a lot of finicky reaching and bending and I'll bet that having a second person to hold a handle or reach a wrench would be helpful, but my sweetheart is in the middle of Christmas baking, and no amount of pleading was going to get her in her barn clothes and come out to freeze her butt off and help me. Probably the most frustrating thing was playing with the length of the operating rod. I had it too long, and the valve only worked in one direction, so I had to disassemble the clevis end a couple of times to adjust it shorter. I have a couple of things to do today, but I will try and snap some pictures and put them up. Good luck.

Great description - thanks (the baking sounds easier but don't tell your wife I said so). I will follow your direction when I get to replacing mine. I had to adjust mine to allow the stick to stay in the detent position. I discovered then that the jam nut at the stick end was completely stripped out and that probably had allowed the rod to rotate out of adjustment (I couldn't even find the valve end). I readjusted the rod by removing the outside boot for access to the knuckle and disassembling then reassembling the knuckle after the adjustment. I'll replace the boot after I replace the rod and jam nut. Thanks again for your advice. That is going to help on the valve end.

 

[fairmountvewe]

Great description - thanks (the baking sounds easier but don't tell your wife I said so). I will follow your direction when I get to replacing mine. I had to adjust mine to allow the stick to stay in the detent position. I discovered then that the jam nut at the stick end was completely stripped out and that probably had allowed the rod to rotate out of adjustment (I couldn't even find the valve end). I readjusted the rod by removing the outside boot for access to the knuckle and disassembling then reassembling the knuckle after the adjustment. I'll replace the boot after I replace the rod and jam nut. Thanks again for your advice. That is going to help on the valve end.

Jim; If you are running with your machine aux hydraulics in the detent position, don't you suffer from a lack of power? I know my machine really bogs down when one of the hydraulic controls is bottomed out (bucket tilt already back, but the fat heel keeping the pedal on, aux hydraulics on detent, but no attachment hooked on). I am such a new user, that I am constantly doing stupid things like that. Good idea on removing the boot. Never thought of that. Peter

 

[jimhumphries]

Jim; If you are running with your machine aux hydraulics in the detent position, don't you suffer from a lack of power? I know my machine really bogs down when one of the hydraulic controls is bottomed out (bucket tilt already back, but the fat heel keeping the pedal on, aux hydraulics on detent, but no attachment hooked on). I am such a new user, that I am constantly doing stupid things like that. Good idea on removing the boot. Never thought of that. Peter

I'm only in detent when I'm running the backhoe or trencher. They constantly "return" fluid through the auxiliary return line so it isn't like dead-heading the pump. If I push the stick into the detent without anything connected I do lose some power but I've run with the bucket for quite some time without realizing that I've done that. There aren't any (or at least many) things that you can do that are as stupid as some of the things I've done. The trick seems to be to live long enough to learn.

 

[Doug baker]

I literally just finished putting the aux control rod on my 743 between the hydraulic valve and the steering lever. Not the easiest I have ever done. You may want to open up the cab (2 bolts in the front corners of the cab), and check to make sure the operating rod is there. It should go from a gimbel mount on the steering lever to the bottom section of the hydraulic valve. I can get a picture if you need it. Good luck.

I am having the same issue, can I get a pic?