642b axle seals

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brettk1

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My left rear axle seal is leaking. I know from reading on the forum that the 642b is supposed to have a two piece axle (large bolt to be removed from center of hub to disassemble) My front axle has this bolt, the rear axle does not ?? Any suggestions on what's up. How do I remove to gain access to rear seals??
 

Tazza

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It sounds like someone had installed different axles on the rear.... They all should have bolts so you can remove the axle hub. If you can't remove it, you need to gain access from the chain case and remove the entire axle and seal. Its a big job sorry to say. It can be done, just not a fun one....
 
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brettk1

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It sounds like someone had installed different axles on the rear.... They all should have bolts so you can remove the axle hub. If you can't remove it, you need to gain access from the chain case and remove the entire axle and seal. Its a big job sorry to say. It can be done, just not a fun one....
tazza thanks for the reply: could you give a summary of what is involved??
 

Tazza

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tazza thanks for the reply: could you give a summary of what is involved??
There is a hard way and a not quite so hard way.....
There are inspection covers for the chain case, you will need to remove them to gain access to the chains. Block the machine, drain the oil, remove the covers. You will then need a spanner for the bolt inside the chain case, it should be 1 1/8". You will need to remove the 2 lines to the motors so the wheels can rotate. Use a bar to rotate the axle hub to crack the bolt and remove it. You will then need to use a hydraulic jack to push the axle out, push it from the chain case to the back of the hub to push it out.
The easier way is to pull the pump and engine to gain more access so you can reach inside the chain case better. I personally would go that way, but this is your choice.
You will need an axle seal installation tool to seat the seal. Even an old bearing cup cut in half will work.
More details are in your service manual.
Thats a very basic description.
 

Skiddy

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There is a hard way and a not quite so hard way.....
There are inspection covers for the chain case, you will need to remove them to gain access to the chains. Block the machine, drain the oil, remove the covers. You will then need a spanner for the bolt inside the chain case, it should be 1 1/8". You will need to remove the 2 lines to the motors so the wheels can rotate. Use a bar to rotate the axle hub to crack the bolt and remove it. You will then need to use a hydraulic jack to push the axle out, push it from the chain case to the back of the hub to push it out.
The easier way is to pull the pump and engine to gain more access so you can reach inside the chain case better. I personally would go that way, but this is your choice.
You will need an axle seal installation tool to seat the seal. Even an old bearing cup cut in half will work.
More details are in your service manual.
Thats a very basic description.
Actually the 642B's came with 1 piece axles up to serial number 31000 then they changed to 2 piece axles for this very reason. If you go to buy an axle for a 642b I am pretty sure that you will get a 2 piece. On this machine it really is not that bad to remove the pump to gain access to the covers.While you got it open I would change both sides.
 

Tazza

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Actually the 642B's came with 1 piece axles up to serial number 31000 then they changed to 2 piece axles for this very reason. If you go to buy an axle for a 642b I am pretty sure that you will get a 2 piece. On this machine it really is not that bad to remove the pump to gain access to the covers.While you got it open I would change both sides.
Skiddy - the odd thing is he said the fronts have the bolt but the rear ones don't...
I totally agree, do BOTH if you go that far you may as well. Even check the fronts for end float, if there is any play buy washers or get someone to machine them with a lathe to take up the play. If there is a lot, you may need new bearings.
Forgot to say, when pulling the pump out, i found it easier to un-do the hoses at the motors NOT the pump. Lift the pump with the 4 big hydro hoses still attached.
 
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brettk1

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Skiddy - the odd thing is he said the fronts have the bolt but the rear ones don't...
I totally agree, do BOTH if you go that far you may as well. Even check the fronts for end float, if there is any play buy washers or get someone to machine them with a lathe to take up the play. If there is a lot, you may need new bearings.
Forgot to say, when pulling the pump out, i found it easier to un-do the hoses at the motors NOT the pump. Lift the pump with the 4 big hydro hoses still attached.
is it possible to remove pump without pulling engine (guess not much left to do to pull engine I just rebuilt it and put it in LOL) and would this gain enough space to do work??
 

Tazza

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is it possible to remove pump without pulling engine (guess not much left to do to pull engine I just rebuilt it and put it in LOL) and would this gain enough space to do work??
You probably could, but you need to be able to hook it back up to the engine. Removing the engine really isn't a hard job. You can always see how you go with pump only, if needed pull the engine later. On my 743's i found it easier to do both using an air operated hoist.
Good luck with it!
While in there clean the chain case out, mop the gunk out of the bottom, if you are doing the seals and cracking it open you may as well. Also ensure you seal the covers when done with silicone to help keep the water out.
 

Skiddy

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You probably could, but you need to be able to hook it back up to the engine. Removing the engine really isn't a hard job. You can always see how you go with pump only, if needed pull the engine later. On my 743's i found it easier to do both using an air operated hoist.
Good luck with it!
While in there clean the chain case out, mop the gunk out of the bottom, if you are doing the seals and cracking it open you may as well. Also ensure you seal the covers when done with silicone to help keep the water out.
Absolutely yes you can pull the pump without pulling the motor. just remove the rear mount at the frame below the tanks rather than at the rear of the pump. when I first looked at my machine knowing I was gonna pull evey dammed bolt, nut, hose, ECT ECT outta the belly Itlloked a little intimidating but 2 hrs later I thought to myself "that was easy". there really is not that much there. And as Taz has stated pulling the motor is not that bad either.
 
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