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skidsteer.ca
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2006
- Messages
- 3,853
If possible, use the torque of the hydrostatic drives to loosen the bolts.
Have you looked in the manual thread and down loaded a manual?
Ken
Have you looked in the manual thread and down loaded a manual?
Ken
The bolts are really tight and even should have loctite on them. As Ken said, you can sometimes use the hydrostats to crack the bolts.
mattyc5094
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2010
- Messages
- 12
Just took my 743 apart last week. take the drive motor off, prop the wrench on the nut then drill 2 holes in a thick piece of 5' steel to fit over 2 wheel studs. use the leverage! or buy a 1 1/8" combo wrench then torch the open end off and stick a pipe over it. I thinek its all the same as my 743. the "B" just doesnt have reduction boxes for drive motors. I'm chainging all 4 axle bearings and seals, and rebuilding both reduction boxes. I replaced only the fronts on my other 743 and noticed the rears started leaking a year later..........
Jrodwi, Iam replacing the wheel bearings on my 873. I know that the loaders may be different, but this is how I loosened the inner bolts on the sprockets in the chaincase. I opened the chaincase put the 1 1/8 " wrench on the bolt and with the tire still on the axel hub I turned the wheel countrer clockwise. I also made sure the wrench only rests on the chaincase NOT the pump {when doing the rear axels}. The way to turn the tires is to loosen both the upper and lowwer drive hoses at the drive motor, yes it will leak but you will be able turn the tires by hand. My understanding of the 743 is that it does not self bleed very well. That it will sound very loud and awful when you refill the hydraulic sytem and start it. I am not sure about the 642. Any one with knowledge on bleedind the air out of the hydraulic system please chime in. Rich M-37
To bleed the air out, just run the machine, it will work its way out.
That is exactly how i did the axles on my 743, i have a bar about 3m long with angle iron with holes to slip over the wheel studs. Removed the hydraulic lines from the motors and turned it, it does spit oil out, just make sure no rubbish gets in and go slowly.
Thanks for all the info. The manual does not say to disconnect the motor. But id this the fastest and easiest way then I will have to go get a peice of angle or flat stock. Is there a good place online to order the seals and bearings?
Bearings - ebay
Seals - dealer
I'm sure you can get the seals else where, but from the dealer you know they are right.
You don't need to disconnect the motor, i know others that used the drive to crack and undo the bolts. The front ones give you good access. But the bar and disconneting the motor trick works well. Just don't rotate it too fast and keep the ports clean!
mattyc5094
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2010
- Messages
- 12
AXLE BEARINGS TIMKEN – LM104949, TIMKEN – LM104912, SEAL NATIONAL - 40301S
You all are awesome!!! Thanks for all the info...
bludorbronc
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- Joined
- Oct 17, 2008
- Messages
- 58
mine is a 542b, when i replaced the bearings i had the option of installing speedy sleaves, so i did, figured that way the seal would have a new smooth surface.
Those bearings and seals were to big. I ended up buying some from Napa. Does anyone have a picture of the axle and the bearing?
what were the right numbers from napa? I need some for my 642b. Thanks
blu, When you did your bearings, did you find part numbers for bearings and seals that are available through auto or industrial parts stores? I heard that when my local Bobcat dealer is out of these, he orders them from Advance or NAPA.
Bearings are available from a bearing shop or ebay. The seals, i found the dealer was pretty damn good for price.
mahans7
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2012
- Messages
- 317
Those bearings and races are about $15 per set (1 of each) from Autozone.
"Has anyone changed out a set of front axle bearings on a 642B with solid axles? I can not get the axle nut holding the sproket off nor can I remove the chain. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks"................................ With our 642 the plan is to: 1. Remove the chain from the sprocket 2. Jam a box end wrench in a safe position to keep the axle nut from spinning. 3. Use a 4 foot (or longer) "cheater bar" positioned between the studs on the axle flange to rotate the axle loose. The manual specs out the torque setting of my 642 at 210 ft-lbs, so it should be manageable.
You shouldn't have to drop the chain, if you can get a good spanner in there and wedge it in place and rotate the axle from the outside, you should be right. The only thing you will be up against is the drive motor. Disconnect the two large hoses and then try and turn it, if not you will be fighting against it.
I used a piece of angle iron with holes drilled to match the axle studs, i then welded about 6' of water pipe to the angle iron for leverage. Never met a nut i couldn't get un-done.
does anyone make the installation tools to put the shaft and seal back in?
