632 w/ ford 1.6L distributor orientation / #1 plug wire location

[ers jungle buggy]

Just picked up a 632 got a good 5 hours out of it on her maiden voyage, lost 2.5 qts oil in vapor form out the breather within that time (two cylinders had broken rings). I got the engine back together with new rings, machine shop said he couldn't get over-sized pistons or rings when i went to pick it up but he went ahead and put new valve seats and new valves in the head, and cut the head down with 0 warp. what a great machine shop, super expensive bill. if i cant so he ended up just honing the cylinders and sending me off with standard rings. I'm going to run it as is and see how it does. check this out, its write up on end ring gap on the ford 1.6L http://www.diagnosticengineers.org/journal_%20articles/Ring%20Gaps%20vs%20Knowledge%20Gaps.php questions: where can i get over-sized pistons and rings, and also looking for valve guide seals distributor orientation / #1 plug wire. i cant find a mark or line on the distributor for #1 plug wire, nor can i find anything online in regards to that. thanks

 

[Tazza]

Worst case, they could have sleeved it.
How worn is it? the bores may still be within spec and new rings is all that is needed. Hopefully it will run ok for you now.

 

[ers jungle buggy]

Worst case, they could have sleeved it.
How worn is it? the bores may still be within spec and new rings is all that is needed. Hopefully it will run ok for you now.

He told me to look for .030 over pistons and rings........... If that helps with an idea of how out of spec it was. I never did get the specs on actual bore when he looked at it and he never mentioned anything about sleeves, I didn't think of sleeves until you said something. Its already back together and in the skid, ill have it fired up and running tomorrow. ill update tomorrow with how it runs. that is if i can figure out the orientation of the distributor and #1 plug wire. I dont know if i dropped the distributor in correct or maybe its off a bunch of teeth.... I found one mark in the top rim of the distributor but it doesnt look factory. any help is appeciated.

 

[Tazza]

He told me to look for .030 over pistons and rings........... If that helps with an idea of how out of spec it was. I never did get the specs on actual bore when he looked at it and he never mentioned anything about sleeves, I didn't think of sleeves until you said something. Its already back together and in the skid, ill have it fired up and running tomorrow. ill update tomorrow with how it runs. that is if i can figure out the orientation of the distributor and #1 plug wire. I dont know if i dropped the distributor in correct or maybe its off a bunch of teeth.... I found one mark in the top rim of the distributor but it doesnt look factory. any help is appeciated.

I'm thinking the .030 over may be the next size up from standard that they are able to cut.
Sadly i can't help you with the distributor, i have never worked on a petrol engine that needed timing messing with. Hopefully another member with the know how will pop their nose in.

 

[craigb93]

I'm thinking the .030 over may be the next size up from standard that they are able to cut.
Sadly i can't help you with the distributor, i have never worked on a petrol engine that needed timing messing with. Hopefully another member with the know how will pop their nose in.

Number 1 is the cyl to the rear of the machine. These engines are mounted backward to how they are in a car application. Roll the engine in the direction of running rotation with No 1 spark plug removed. If the valves are adjusted fairly close to spec you can put your finger over the hole as you turn it either with an assistant or the starter. It will blow your finger out to confirm you are on the compression stroke. Now look at the crank pulley and the timing mark on the engine cover. Stop at ~6 degrees BTC. (The crank pulley has a sawcut mark. It will be easy to see. The cover may have degree numbers on it, I forget.) Remove the distributor cap and note the direction the rotor is pointing. If it is not pointing to the No 1 plug wire take the distributor out and turn it until it does point to #1. You will have to fiddle w/ it a bit to get the oil pump tang to slip back into place but it is not hard to do. Easiest way is to rotate the crank with a socket and pull handle while you hold pressure on the distributor. When it drops in put the retaining bolt in snug but not tight. Now roll the crank back to where it was ~6 degrees. Turn the distributor opposite to its normal rotation until the ignition points JUST open. If the distributor slot won't let you turn it enough for the points to open repeat the above procedure and pick the next closest tooth. Snug up the retaining bolt and put the cap on. After you run it a while and check the valve clearances hot you can set the timing exactly with a timing light.

 

[ers jungle buggy]

Number 1 is the cyl to the rear of the machine. These engines are mounted backward to how they are in a car application. Roll the engine in the direction of running rotation with No 1 spark plug removed. If the valves are adjusted fairly close to spec you can put your finger over the hole as you turn it either with an assistant or the starter. It will blow your finger out to confirm you are on the compression stroke. Now look at the crank pulley and the timing mark on the engine cover. Stop at ~6 degrees BTC. (The crank pulley has a sawcut mark. It will be easy to see. The cover may have degree numbers on it, I forget.) Remove the distributor cap and note the direction the rotor is pointing. If it is not pointing to the No 1 plug wire take the distributor out and turn it until it does point to #1. You will have to fiddle w/ it a bit to get the oil pump tang to slip back into place but it is not hard to do. Easiest way is to rotate the crank with a socket and pull handle while you hold pressure on the distributor. When it drops in put the retaining bolt in snug but not tight. Now roll the crank back to where it was ~6 degrees. Turn the distributor opposite to its normal rotation until the ignition points JUST open. If the distributor slot won't let you turn it enough for the points to open repeat the above procedure and pick the next closest tooth. Snug up the retaining bolt and put the cap on. After you run it a while and check the valve clearances hot you can set the timing exactly with a timing light.

Got it figured out. during engine assembly when aligning cam to crank #1 is in over lap. rotated crank 360 degrees brings #1 to compression. took the distributor cap off of the spare engine i have sitting in the shop and found a line on the top on the distributor facing #1 cylinder. installed new points, set timing and away she went. starts easily runs good. What a pain not knowing where #1 orientation is on the old distributor. thanks for all the help