610 HELP

[GMJones]

It is fairly difficult to tell from your photo, but,……the snap ring groove in the shaft appears to be approaching a failure point also……when it will no longer hold the snap ring, you will lose all drive abilities.

Thanks 6b.. I do have all new o-rings and seals. I did not sand the snap ring groove in the VS sheave, I will definitely do that and try again. Presently I cant get it past the snap ring groove, so what you say makes total sense.
Thank-YOU and everyone else for all of the help and support you have given me. GREATLY APPRECIATED

 

[GMJones]

Thanks 6b.. I do have all new o-rings and seals. I did not sand the snap ring groove in the VS sheave, I will definitely do that and try again. Presently I cant get it past the snap ring groove, so what you say makes total sense.
Thank-YOU and everyone else for all of the help and support you have given me. GREATLY APPRECIATED

And my trials & tribulations continue.....
After getting everything back together, it started right up and I adjusted the sheaves to 1/2 speed to check for alignment. They were almost 1/4" out of alignment. I tried to move it to another location when the drive belt turned inside out. WHY????
I took the side cover off to adjust alignment and found that by putting a straight edge on the clutch gear above, it aligned approx. with the center of the driven sheave gear, the same distance I measured on the sheaves. After adjusting alignment, the 3 washers behind the sprocket are still loose.
I've gotten the belt reversed and alignment completed, just needing to tighten split shaft block.
One other question - How does moisture get into the hydraulic system?

 

[alchemysa]

And my trials & tribulations continue.....
After getting everything back together, it started right up and I adjusted the sheaves to 1/2 speed to check for alignment. They were almost 1/4" out of alignment. I tried to move it to another location when the drive belt turned inside out. WHY????
I took the side cover off to adjust alignment and found that by putting a straight edge on the clutch gear above, it aligned approx. with the center of the driven sheave gear, the same distance I measured on the sheaves. After adjusting alignment, the 3 washers behind the sprocket are still loose.
I've gotten the belt reversed and alignment completed, just needing to tighten split shaft block.
One other question - How does moisture get into the hydraulic system?

How tight are the nuts on the driven sheave?. They are only supposed to show 1/4" of thread on the outside of the nut.
I'm afraid I didnt really understand the question about the 3 washers.
Water gets in with the air. Those 2 inverted cup thingys on the frame are vents as well as fillers. As oil sloshes from side to side and back and forth it sucks air in and out. The moisture condenses out, especially at night.

 

[6brnorma]

How tight are the nuts on the driven sheave?. They are only supposed to show 1/4" of thread on the outside of the nut.
I'm afraid I didnt really understand the question about the 3 washers.
Water gets in with the air. Those 2 inverted cup thingys on the frame are vents as well as fillers. As oil sloshes from side to side and back and forth it sucks air in and out. The moisture condenses out, especially at night.

So…in the pictures, your sheaves appear to be out of alignment (may be the pic angle). First thing is to make sure they are aligned…..that is why the belt flipped. After the sheaves are aligned correctly…..then you work on aligning the chains/drives. The three shims may or may not be needed once you align the gears/sprockets inside the chain case.

 

[h.d.fire]

It is fairly difficult to tell from your photo, but,……the snap ring groove in the shaft appears to be approaching a failure point also……when it will no longer hold the snap ring, you will lose all drive abilities.

Hello guys, Haven't updated in a while, but finally got my 610 running great...but then.....(these machines do try your patience don't they?). I also have a problem with my variable sheave. It appears my snap ring groove reached the failure point, as you mentioned 6brnorma, the valve no longer stays in the cylinder bore and I have no drive. Is there any known repair available? or am I looking at a new sheave assembly? If so, is this still available from Bobcat? Sorry GM, didn't mean to "hijack your thread", just looks like you and I are in the same boat!

 

[6brnorma]

Hello guys, Haven't updated in a while, but finally got my 610 running great...but then.....(these machines do try your patience don't they?). I also have a problem with my variable sheave. It appears my snap ring groove reached the failure point, as you mentioned 6brnorma, the valve no longer stays in the cylinder bore and I have no drive. Is there any known repair available? or am I looking at a new sheave assembly? If so, is this still available from Bobcat? Sorry GM, didn't mean to "hijack your thread", just looks like you and I are in the same boat!

HD…..which lock ring is it? The one that goes around the shaft (pt# 6516303) or the one that locks inside the sheave?

 

[h.d.fire]

HD…..which lock ring is it? The one that goes around the shaft (pt# 6516303) or the one that locks inside the sheave?

The larger snap ring that goes inside the sheave and retains the roto valve. After doing more searching here and elsewhere I learned this is a common problem with that snap ring groove getting worn and allowing the valve to "walk" out of the sheave. I took a 1/4" die grinder and a small 1/16" disc and carefully cut a deeper groove on the inside of the sheave. Tomorrow I hope to find a slightly larger snap ring that should solve the problem. I'm also going to visit my local dealer and order the new seal kit.

 

[6brnorma]

The larger snap ring that goes inside the sheave and retains the roto valve. After doing more searching here and elsewhere I learned this is a common problem with that snap ring groove getting worn and allowing the valve to "walk" out of the sheave. I took a 1/4" die grinder and a small 1/16" disc and carefully cut a deeper groove on the inside of the sheave. Tomorrow I hope to find a slightly larger snap ring that should solve the problem. I'm also going to visit my local dealer and order the new seal kit.

It will be interesting to see if that works or not. I priced a new sheave the other day and got two prices from two different dealers…..$440.00 from one and $508.00 from the other.
Here is what I have done before…. I took the sheave to a machinist….he cut the end off and cut a new groove in the sheave. It works fine but due to the shorter length of the sheave it causes the belt to ride up past the edge of the sheave so you must physically look and make sure you do not let the belt ride that high. It works and was much cheaper then buying a new sheave.

 

[h.d.fire]

It will be interesting to see if that works or not. I priced a new sheave the other day and got two prices from two different dealers…..$440.00 from one and $508.00 from the other.
Here is what I have done before…. I took the sheave to a machinist….he cut the end off and cut a new groove in the sheave. It works fine but due to the shorter length of the sheave it causes the belt to ride up past the edge of the sheave so you must physically look and make sure you do not let the belt ride that high. It works and was much cheaper then buying a new sheave.

That sounds like a good idea and a viable option. I am hoping this works, and my thought was that it was worth a try vs. pulling the engine side of the sheave, which looks to be no small task.

 

[GMJones]

That sounds like a good idea and a viable option. I am hoping this works, and my thought was that it was worth a try vs. pulling the engine side of the sheave, which looks to be no small task.

6b~....so I finally got time to get back to my 610. I got the sheaves aligned, 1/4" out, and the belt turned over. Just running at an idle, and adjusting the speed control, it looks like the belt wants to roll over again. The drive belt doesnt ride evenly in the sheaves, the outboard side runs lower than the inboard side. The picture says a 1000 words. Could I reverse the belt, or do I need to replace it??
The variable speed valve goes from slow to fast within about 3/4" of travel and it is impossible to maintain a set speed. Will rebuilding the control valve resolve this issue?
I have read post in this forum about water in hydraulic fluid but still dont totally understand how the water gets there or how to keep it out. Changing out 18 gal isnt a major expense, but 100 bucks is a 100 bucks. (LOTS of beer in my world,LOL)

 

[6brnorma]

6b~....so I finally got time to get back to my 610. I got the sheaves aligned, 1/4" out, and the belt turned over. Just running at an idle, and adjusting the speed control, it looks like the belt wants to roll over again. The drive belt doesnt ride evenly in the sheaves, the outboard side runs lower than the inboard side. The picture says a 1000 words. Could I reverse the belt, or do I need to replace it??
The variable speed valve goes from slow to fast within about 3/4" of travel and it is impossible to maintain a set speed. Will rebuilding the control valve resolve this issue?
I have read post in this forum about water in hydraulic fluid but still dont totally understand how the water gets there or how to keep it out. Changing out 18 gal isnt a major expense, but 100 bucks is a 100 bucks. (LOTS of beer in my world,LOL)

From the photo…….it appears the belt has stretched on one side. I've never had a belt flip on me (that I recall) so……I personally, would replace the belt. You could try to flip it around but it is a job to do all that work just to find out if a $100.00 belt might work that way……..not worth my time.
Short of a major leak somewhere……(which you would already know) the only place water can enter the hydraulic reservoir is through the breather caps. Either condensation or direct water entry. You will need to drain and replace the fluid to do the job correctly…..new filter also.

 

[h.d.fire]

From the photo…….it appears the belt has stretched on one side. I've never had a belt flip on me (that I recall) so……I personally, would replace the belt. You could try to flip it around but it is a job to do all that work just to find out if a $100.00 belt might work that way……..not worth my time.
Short of a major leak somewhere……(which you would already know) the only place water can enter the hydraulic reservoir is through the breather caps. Either condensation or direct water entry. You will need to drain and replace the fluid to do the job correctly…..new filter also.

GM- I just rebuilt my roto-valve and fit my variable speed sheave back together and they work GREAT! (BIG sigh of relief here!) I've only "yard driven" my 610 and haven't put much time on it yet but it seems that the oversize snap ring seems to be holding fine. The rebuild kit and seal kit ran me $300 from my local dealer (Atlas Bobcat in Yorkville, IL. GREAT parts guy there named Andy, really seems to be willing to help with parts for our older machines). You might want to try doing the same to your valve, it likely would cure the speed control issue. 6brnorma- Do you have the rebuild kit part number for my tilt cylinders? Thanks!!!

 

[6brnorma]

GM- I just rebuilt my roto-valve and fit my variable speed sheave back together and they work GREAT! (BIG sigh of relief here!) I've only "yard driven" my 610 and haven't put much time on it yet but it seems that the oversize snap ring seems to be holding fine. The rebuild kit and seal kit ran me $300 from my local dealer (Atlas Bobcat in Yorkville, IL. GREAT parts guy there named Andy, really seems to be willing to help with parts for our older machines). You might want to try doing the same to your valve, it likely would cure the speed control issue. 6brnorma- Do you have the rebuild kit part number for my tilt cylinders? Thanks!!!

Tilt cylinder seal kit #6803329

 

[h.d.fire]

Tilt cylinder seal kit #6803329

I've seen ones on-line that use #6587790, is that number accurate?

 

[6brnorma]

I've seen ones on-line that use #6587790, is that number accurate?

That is the old pt#……so yes it will work…..can't vouch for the age of the kit however……should be fine.