610 HELP

[GMJones]

That number you listed (#1541), I believe is for the igniter/module only. I believe the distributor is #D41-09B and I see one on E-bay now for $173.00. I have used several other numbers……generally YF 50 CSI but I didn't see any right now. I would never use the old distributor on any of my machines…..PITA

6b - I took your advise and ordered a #D41-09B distributor off of ebay,, what you say makes total sense. When I get it all back together I will have a totally functional 610, something I have never had before...LOL I have run into another problem, due to my own ignorance. When I took the Drive sheave off of the engine, I didnt note both alignment marks. The mark on the outside half is quite obvious, but the engine side not so much. I have found a VERY faint mark on the outside edge, but can only get the marks within 1/2" or so of each other. What exactly am I looking for. All help would be greatly appreciated. DAMN I hate screwing up like this....

 

[6brnorma]

6b - I took your advise and ordered a #D41-09B distributor off of ebay,, what you say makes total sense. When I get it all back together I will have a totally functional 610, something I have never had before...LOL I have run into another problem, due to my own ignorance. When I took the Drive sheave off of the engine, I didnt note both alignment marks. The mark on the outside half is quite obvious, but the engine side not so much. I have found a VERY faint mark on the outside edge, but can only get the marks within 1/2" or so of each other. What exactly am I looking for. All help would be greatly appreciated. DAMN I hate screwing up like this....

While you are at it….(if it's still on there) eliminate the regulator and its bracket (very harmful to your health) and replace the generator with a single wire delco alternator.
You have not screwed up on the sheaves. The outside sheave will have an arrow pointing to the balance mark. The mark will be on the very rim/edge of the sheave….it will be a "V" cut on the very edge of the rim or a line cut entirely across the rim. There will be an identical mark (same spot) on the engine side sheave

 

[GMJones]

While you are at it….(if it's still on there) eliminate the regulator and its bracket (very harmful to your health) and replace the generator with a single wire delco alternator.
You have not screwed up on the sheaves. The outside sheave will have an arrow pointing to the balance mark. The mark will be on the very rim/edge of the sheave….it will be a "V" cut on the very edge of the rim or a line cut entirely across the rim. There will be an identical mark (same spot) on the engine side sheave

6b - You make it sound so simple...LOL Even after cleaning & using a sanding pad around the edge, (and putting my reading glass on.haha), I still cannot find any signs of a marking on the engine side of the driven sheave. Guess I'm going to have to rig up some kind of balancing jig, which is only complicated by the fact that the engine shaft is tapered. YES, there is already a delco alternator on it, and I just finished rewiring. I am planning on using denatured alcohol to clean the sheave faces before install the new drive belt. Do you have an other suggestion??

 

[GMJones]

6b - You make it sound so simple...LOL Even after cleaning & using a sanding pad around the edge, (and putting my reading glass on.haha), I still cannot find any signs of a marking on the engine side of the driven sheave. Guess I'm going to have to rig up some kind of balancing jig, which is only complicated by the fact that the engine shaft is tapered. YES, there is already a delco alternator on it, and I just finished rewiring. I am planning on using denatured alcohol to clean the sheave faces before install the new drive belt. Do you have an other suggestion??

6b - My variable speed valve will only stay in open or closed position, nothing in between. Can you point me to a post that discusses this issue. Thanks in advance.

 

[6brnorma]

6b - My variable speed valve will only stay in open or closed position, nothing in between. Can you point me to a post that discusses this issue. Thanks in advance.

OK……so you are looking for that exact same notch but on the BACK side of the other sheave……exact same location. I have never seen or heard of one that didn't have it but you have that awful clean not to see it….hope it's there.

 

[6brnorma]

OK……so you are looking for that exact same notch but on the BACK side of the other sheave……exact same location. I have never seen or heard of one that didn't have it but you have that awful clean not to see it….hope it's there.

On the sheave…….personally…..I would not even consider tearing this machine down this far and NOT rebuilding the entire sheave assembly. But……so I understand, using the valve handle, you can raise it to full high speed and it will stay but not stay at half speed?

 

[GMJones]

On the sheave…….personally…..I would not even consider tearing this machine down this far and NOT rebuilding the entire sheave assembly. But……so I understand, using the valve handle, you can raise it to full high speed and it will stay but not stay at half speed?

6b - I have bearings & o-rings for the drive sheave waiting for me at the Bobcat dealer. Didnt find out till midday yesterday & decided not the make the 30 mi trip across town on a holiday Friday..haha..I'll get them Tuesday. You are correct about the valve handle. .... Any other ideas about matching the drive sheave halves???

 

[6brnorma]

6b - I have bearings & o-rings for the drive sheave waiting for me at the Bobcat dealer. Didnt find out till midday yesterday & decided not the make the 30 mi trip across town on a holiday Friday..haha..I'll get them Tuesday. You are correct about the valve handle. .... Any other ideas about matching the drive sheave halves???

I see a couple of (what appear to be) faint marks on the rim of the sheave. Try to see if one of them match up with the other mark. If not……don't know what the next step would be……have someone balance it for you I guess.

 

[Clone]

I see a couple of (what appear to be) faint marks on the rim of the sheave. Try to see if one of them match up with the other mark. If not……don't know what the next step would be……have someone balance it for you I guess.

If you know someone with a tire balancing machine, it might work for these? I believe it has tapered ends on it. You could keep moving around on the splines until it was "happy". Then have your center punch ready to put good match marks on it.

 

[Bobm500Cat]

If you know someone with a tire balancing machine, it might work for these? I believe it has tapered ends on it. You could keep moving around on the splines until it was "happy". Then have your center punch ready to put good match marks on it.

GM - The mark is vary hard to locate. It will be on the edge on the engine side. The mark should look exactly like the one on the outer sheave. Looking at your picture of the outer sheave half you'll notice the arrow, above the arrow is the the balancing hole (used to remove weight) and above that is the alignment mark. This little mark should be on the other half of the Engine side sheave as well. It took me some time to find mine as well. Run some chalk around the edge this may help you locate it. Good Luck.

 

[GMJones]

GM - The mark is vary hard to locate. It will be on the edge on the engine side. The mark should look exactly like the one on the outer sheave. Looking at your picture of the outer sheave half you'll notice the arrow, above the arrow is the the balancing hole (used to remove weight) and above that is the alignment mark. This little mark should be on the other half of the Engine side sheave as well. It took me some time to find mine as well. Run some chalk around the edge this may help you locate it. Good Luck.

Clone----you are a genius. Your wheel balancer idea worked perfectly.
Bobm ---After balancing, a unusual mark is evident, looks like /. I never noticed before, guess because I was looking on the outside edges
It only took 9 tries to find the balance point. YEAH!!!!! If I block open the driven sheave, will I be able to reassemble the drive sheave, with the belt in place as I rebuild it???

 

[6brnorma]

Clone----you are a genius. Your wheel balancer idea worked perfectly.
Bobm ---After balancing, a unusual mark is evident, looks like /. I never noticed before, guess because I was looking on the outside edges
It only took 9 tries to find the balance point. YEAH!!!!! If I block open the driven sheave, will I be able to reassemble the drive sheave, with the belt in place as I rebuild it???

One of those……….."Oh….THAT mark moments." ;-)

 

[6brnorma]

One of those……….."Oh….THAT mark moments." ;-)

This is a perfect example of why we need an updated site……..GM's pictures need to be used as "stickies" to help folks see what it is we are trying to describe.

 

[GMJones]

This is a perfect example of why we need an updated site……..GM's pictures need to be used as "stickies" to help folks see what it is we are trying to describe.

6b--- I agree on the updated site. I also wish it was possible to EDIT your post. I didnt make it clear that the V notch on the outer rim, is one that I made, the Hash mark, / , was already there, but I never thought to look that low on the sheave.
Everyone that uses this site should donate $5 - $10. A mere pittance compared to what they're saving by not going to the dealer for repairs. JMO

 

[6brnorma]

6b--- I agree on the updated site. I also wish it was possible to EDIT your post. I didnt make it clear that the V notch on the outer rim, is one that I made, the Hash mark, / , was already there, but I never thought to look that low on the sheave.
Everyone that uses this site should donate $5 - $10. A mere pittance compared to what they're saving by not going to the dealer for repairs. JMO

The "/" mark is NOT the balance mark. There is no other "V" notch on the sheave exactly like the one you did?

 

[GMJones]

The "/" mark is NOT the balance mark. There is no other "V" notch on the sheave exactly like the one you did?

Surprisingly not, NO marks at all. Believe me, I looked with a magnifying glass. THANKS to Clone, Problem solved for a mere $20. Made my Day
Drive sheave rebuild kit and distributor arrive tomorrow. About to be back up and running. Fingers crossed. Then the only thing left is to find the hydraulic leak in the engine compartment..lol

 

[Clone]

Surprisingly not, NO marks at all. Believe me, I looked with a magnifying glass. THANKS to Clone, Problem solved for a mere $20. Made my Day
Drive sheave rebuild kit and distributor arrive tomorrow. About to be back up and running. Fingers crossed. Then the only thing left is to find the hydraulic leak in the engine compartment..lol

I'm glad my redneck idea worked. I almost didn't share it because it sounded a little unprofessional to throw out as a suggestion however it was something I just might have tried myself. HA!

 

[GMJones]

Surprisingly not, NO marks at all. Believe me, I looked with a magnifying glass. THANKS to Clone, Problem solved for a mere $20. Made my Day
Drive sheave rebuild kit and distributor arrive tomorrow. About to be back up and running. Fingers crossed. Then the only thing left is to find the hydraulic leak in the engine compartment..lol

Almost done & all was going good UNTIL......
How do you compress the O-ring so that the outer bushing can go in, on the drive sheave????

 

[6brnorma]

Almost done & all was going good UNTIL......
How do you compress the O-ring so that the outer bushing can go in, on the drive sheave????

Couple of comments GM…….first, the gland (brass piece) is not in very good shape and secondly, if you are re-assembling, I would replace the O-rings on that assembly. You have two on that gland (one inside and one outside) and also the ones on the shaft.
I do not compress the O-rings……my procedure is…..(with the entire assembly removed) I use emery cloth to remove any burrs from the snap ring grooves on the shaft and especially inside the cylinder of the VS Sheave (snap ring groove only), then I apply a generous amount of hydro oil to grooves and O-rings, place gland over shaft (all the way to the bottom) and then insert shaft & gland into sheave. Drive the assembly into place with a piece of PVC (I think it is 1 1/4 inch will fit inside of cylinder/sheave and not damage brass gland)

 

[6brnorma]

Couple of comments GM…….first, the gland (brass piece) is not in very good shape and secondly, if you are re-assembling, I would replace the O-rings on that assembly. You have two on that gland (one inside and one outside) and also the ones on the shaft.
I do not compress the O-rings……my procedure is…..(with the entire assembly removed) I use emery cloth to remove any burrs from the snap ring grooves on the shaft and especially inside the cylinder of the VS Sheave (snap ring groove only), then I apply a generous amount of hydro oil to grooves and O-rings, place gland over shaft (all the way to the bottom) and then insert shaft & gland into sheave. Drive the assembly into place with a piece of PVC (I think it is 1 1/4 inch will fit inside of cylinder/sheave and not damage brass gland)

It is fairly difficult to tell from your photo, but,……the snap ring groove in the shaft appears to be approaching a failure point also……when it will no longer hold the snap ring, you will lose all drive abilities.