610 HELP

[GMJones]

Can someone lead me to instructions for the proper spring tensioning on the drive pulley. I replaced my drive belt about 10 yrs ago and never had any low speed, almost like the belt was slipping. I am in the process of replacing the belt again, and wondering if I increase spring tension, would it increase low speed power. The 3 nuts on the spring plate are screwed on about 1 fourth of the visible threads. THANKS in advance for ANY help. PS...Im new here, how do you post pics??? As they say, pictures are worth a thousand works

 

[6brnorma]

Welcome to the site GM……… So we both know what we are talking about…..you are working on the 'Jackshaft Sheave' or 'Driven Sheave'. Typically 1/4 of the visible thread should be ample. If it is not…..tighten each of the nuts equally until you have power at the lowest speed. I have never seen one with the nuts even at the half way mark.

 

[GMJones]

Welcome to the site GM……… So we both know what we are talking about…..you are working on the 'Jackshaft Sheave' or 'Driven Sheave'. Typically 1/4 of the visible thread should be ample. If it is not…..tighten each of the nuts equally until you have power at the lowest speed. I have never seen one with the nuts even at the half way mark.

Thanks so much. It totally makes sense to me so I will make adjustments accordingly. Surprising its not mentioned in the manuals Thanks again Any thoughts on how to post a pic here??

 

[6brnorma]

Thanks so much. It totally makes sense to me so I will make adjustments accordingly. Surprising its not mentioned in the manuals Thanks again Any thoughts on how to post a pic here??

GM…….I went back through some of the very old manuals and they say not to over-tighten those nuts. They recommend simply nudging the 'variable speed' sheave up to take up the slack and getting the lower end power that way. I do know that if you over-tighten the nuts it will put undue stress on the belt and cause premature failure.

 

[GMJones]

GM…….I went back through some of the very old manuals and they say not to over-tighten those nuts. They recommend simply nudging the 'variable speed' sheave up to take up the slack and getting the lower end power that way. I do know that if you over-tighten the nuts it will put undue stress on the belt and cause premature failure.

Thanks 6b. That is what I recall from memory and my manual is packed away as I am living in 'temporary mode', so that what brings me to this Forum Any ideas as why no low speed? I may try to tighten a couple of turns and see if that helps. Both of my previous belts have worn out on the outside edge, and a local guy said that was normal because of how the engine pulley functioned

 

[GMJones]

Thanks 6b. That is what I recall from memory and my manual is packed away as I am living in 'temporary mode', so that what brings me to this Forum Any ideas as why no low speed? I may try to tighten a couple of turns and see if that helps. Both of my previous belts have worn out on the outside edge, and a local guy said that was normal because of how the engine pulley functioned

After 45 minutes of failure trying to post a pic...Maybe this link will work........... https://photos-4.dropbox.com/t/2/AAAQm7ehlH4VK0U-9T7s9qg_TldyelxtPWIXsaJbogdpOQ/12/90371497/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/2016-08-27%2014.35.42.jpg/EIqOoEYYr0YgBygH/l4KJeFGTHJVvHiuzcBiRZtycOGEFXWXQObHHH8W9VJ8?size=1280x960&size_mode=3

 

[GMJones]

After 45 minutes of failure trying to post a pic...Maybe this link will work........... https://photos-4.dropbox.com/t/2/AAAQm7ehlH4VK0U-9T7s9qg_TldyelxtPWIXsaJbogdpOQ/12/90371497/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/2016-08-27%2014.35.42.jpg/EIqOoEYYr0YgBygH/l4KJeFGTHJVvHiuzcBiRZtycOGEFXWXQObHHH8W9VJ8?size=1280x960&size_mode=3

1st attempt didnt work, now to figure out to delete a post..lol.... 2nd attempt........... https://www.dropbox.com/home/Camera%20Uploads?preview=2016-08-27+14.35.42.jpg

 

[6brnorma]

Thanks 6b. That is what I recall from memory and my manual is packed away as I am living in 'temporary mode', so that what brings me to this Forum Any ideas as why no low speed? I may try to tighten a couple of turns and see if that helps. Both of my previous belts have worn out on the outside edge, and a local guy said that was normal because of how the engine pulley functioned

Both the Variable & the Driven sheave have perfectly straight faces when new but after many hours of use there is a curve worn in them by the belt, effectively reducing belt contact in low speed. I have a drawer full of the caps (pt#6504428) for the end of the variable speed root-swivel assembly. There is nearly a .500 difference between the thinnest and the thickest which could equate to the same numbers on the belt. A couple of reasons for a loose belt but, again, simply bumping up the variable speed sheave will still give you low speed.
The wear you describe is normal only if you put thousands of hours on the machine. We use our machines commercially and I can't remember the last belt that had to be replaced due to "normal" wear. Early belt failure is typically due to sheave/belt mis-alignment, disfigurement of sheave face, excessive spring tension or worn bushings in the driven sheave. How many hours of use do you suppose you got out of the other two belts?

 

[6brnorma]

Both the Variable & the Driven sheave have perfectly straight faces when new but after many hours of use there is a curve worn in them by the belt, effectively reducing belt contact in low speed. I have a drawer full of the caps (pt#6504428) for the end of the variable speed root-swivel assembly. There is nearly a .500 difference between the thinnest and the thickest which could equate to the same numbers on the belt. A couple of reasons for a loose belt but, again, simply bumping up the variable speed sheave will still give you low speed.
The wear you describe is normal only if you put thousands of hours on the machine. We use our machines commercially and I can't remember the last belt that had to be replaced due to "normal" wear. Early belt failure is typically due to sheave/belt mis-alignment, disfigurement of sheave face, excessive spring tension or worn bushings in the driven sheave. How many hours of use do you suppose you got out of the other two belts?

Second one worked but asked me to sign in to your account. Can't see the picture.

 

[6brnorma]

Second one worked but asked me to sign in to your account. Can't see the picture.

Skidroe may be able to help.

 

[GMJones]

Skidroe may be able to help.

Finally I found my manual with all receipts. I bought it in 92 for $900 and it ran approx 2 weeks before throwing the drive belt. I replaced the belt AND …. drive chains, 2 drive sprockets, and the jack shaft the sheath rides on. Guessing I didn't get the sheaths aligned properly, so I will readjust as need this time I thought it had an engine oil leak at the bottom pan, so I pulled the motor, since the drive belt was broke, and found no signs of engine oil leak. I did find that the hydraulic oil filter wasn't mounted and rubber suction line that runs to the valve body, was about worn through from rubbing on the jackshaft. The steel 'y' suction line was also rubbing on the chassis. Do you know of a simple means of pressurizing the hydraulic system to check for leaks before reinstalling the motor? With the repairs in 92 & now, I have spent about $1000, which isn't all that bad I guess. I only use it occasionally, maybe 1000 hrs since I've owned it. My biggest issue has been with the distributer and the points oxidizing . Wish I knew of a cure for that….lol Thanks again for all of you help  How do I contact Skidroe regarding posting pics?

 

[Bobm500Cat]

Finally I found my manual with all receipts. I bought it in 92 for $900 and it ran approx 2 weeks before throwing the drive belt. I replaced the belt AND …. drive chains, 2 drive sprockets, and the jack shaft the sheath rides on. Guessing I didn't get the sheaths aligned properly, so I will readjust as need this time I thought it had an engine oil leak at the bottom pan, so I pulled the motor, since the drive belt was broke, and found no signs of engine oil leak. I did find that the hydraulic oil filter wasn't mounted and rubber suction line that runs to the valve body, was about worn through from rubbing on the jackshaft. The steel 'y' suction line was also rubbing on the chassis. Do you know of a simple means of pressurizing the hydraulic system to check for leaks before reinstalling the motor? With the repairs in 92 & now, I have spent about $1000, which isn't all that bad I guess. I only use it occasionally, maybe 1000 hrs since I've owned it. My biggest issue has been with the distributer and the points oxidizing . Wish I knew of a cure for that….lol Thanks again for all of you help  How do I contact Skidroe regarding posting pics?

Are you sure you don't simply have too much oil and grime on the sheaves. Those sheaves can get slick real fast with a bit hydraulic fluid or engine oil. Doesn't take much imho.

 

[alchemysa]

Finally I found my manual with all receipts. I bought it in 92 for $900 and it ran approx 2 weeks before throwing the drive belt. I replaced the belt AND …. drive chains, 2 drive sprockets, and the jack shaft the sheath rides on. Guessing I didn't get the sheaths aligned properly, so I will readjust as need this time I thought it had an engine oil leak at the bottom pan, so I pulled the motor, since the drive belt was broke, and found no signs of engine oil leak. I did find that the hydraulic oil filter wasn't mounted and rubber suction line that runs to the valve body, was about worn through from rubbing on the jackshaft. The steel 'y' suction line was also rubbing on the chassis. Do you know of a simple means of pressurizing the hydraulic system to check for leaks before reinstalling the motor? With the repairs in 92 & now, I have spent about $1000, which isn't all that bad I guess. I only use it occasionally, maybe 1000 hrs since I've owned it. My biggest issue has been with the distributer and the points oxidizing . Wish I knew of a cure for that….lol Thanks again for all of you help  How do I contact Skidroe regarding posting pics?

$900 in '92. What a deal. I just paid $2200 for this clunker and it needs a lot of work. (But then, I'm in Australia).
To post pics I got free account at Photobucket. I then upload the pics and and click the http link to copy and paste pics. You may also need to go into your profile on this skidsteer site and enable html editor.
Its a tedious way to do it. Its sad to consider the info that might have been relayed on this site if pics were easily uploaded, and editing was easier. I hope the site does not crash permanently before its brought up to date. 2 great forums I used to contribute to crashed before the mods got around to updating them. They never recovered, because the experienced members just left. (BIG HINT TO THE MODS!!).

 

[6brnorma]

$900 in '92. What a deal. I just paid $2200 for this clunker and it needs a lot of work. (But then, I'm in Australia).
To post pics I got free account at Photobucket. I then upload the pics and and click the http link to copy and paste pics. You may also need to go into your profile on this skidsteer site and enable html editor.
Its a tedious way to do it. Its sad to consider the info that might have been relayed on this site if pics were easily uploaded, and editing was easier. I hope the site does not crash permanently before its brought up to date. 2 great forums I used to contribute to crashed before the mods got around to updating them. They never recovered, because the experienced members just left. (BIG HINT TO THE MODS!!).

GM…….You have something wrong with the sheaves or alignment to have lost two belts in that length of time. Look at the bushings in the jackshaft sheave for starters……are they oval. Something is wrong.
I would toss the old distributor and replace with an electronic…….My personal opinion…..it's the first thing I do with every new 610 I acquire.

 

[6brnorma]

GM…….You have something wrong with the sheaves or alignment to have lost two belts in that length of time. Look at the bushings in the jackshaft sheave for starters……are they oval. Something is wrong.
I would toss the old distributor and replace with an electronic…….My personal opinion…..it's the first thing I do with every new 610 I acquire.

Alchemysa……I'm with you on the 'update' ….. been pushing for that for years. Valuable resource that is handicapped with antiquated technology.

 

[GMJones]

Alchemysa……I'm with you on the 'update' ….. been pushing for that for years. Valuable resource that is handicapped with antiquated technology.

6b ---- FINALLY got a pic posted,,,,LOL A little clarification...The 1st belt was already frayed when I purchased the machine, but I do agree that I probably did not align the sheaves properly. Im a week out on parts, So I have time to inspect the drive sheave as you suggested. Electronic distributer !!!!!!! what a MARVELOUS idea. Are they hard to come by on the used market? Might you have any info on interchangeability? I LOVE this site, I truly hope it survives. I did make a donation, and I read somewhere a suggestion of a $5 a year fee. TRULY inexpensive for the knowledge gained here..

 

[GMJones]

6b ---- FINALLY got a pic posted,,,,LOL A little clarification...The 1st belt was already frayed when I purchased the machine, but I do agree that I probably did not align the sheaves properly. Im a week out on parts, So I have time to inspect the drive sheave as you suggested. Electronic distributer !!!!!!! what a MARVELOUS idea. Are they hard to come by on the used market? Might you have any info on interchangeability? I LOVE this site, I truly hope it survives. I did make a donation, and I read somewhere a suggestion of a $5 a year fee. TRULY inexpensive for the knowledge gained here..

6b - I've done a little google searching and found that Pertronix #1541 electronic ignition kit will work for me. Do you have any experience with this brand? Does anybody else reading this thread have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help

 

[Bobm500Cat]

6b - I've done a little google searching and found that Pertronix #1541 electronic ignition kit will work for me. Do you have any experience with this brand? Does anybody else reading this thread have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help

Pertronix is used by several classic car guys. Many many positive reviews. I have not made the jump yet, but will for my car when the points wear out.

 

[6brnorma]

Pertronix is used by several classic car guys. Many many positive reviews. I have not made the jump yet, but will for my car when the points wear out.

That number you listed (#1541), I believe is for the igniter/module only. I believe the distributor is #D41-09B and I see one on E-bay now for $173.00. I have used several other numbers……generally YF 50 CSI but I didn't see any right now. I would never use the old distributor on any of my machines…..PITA