530 Running Hot

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Chris611

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Joined
Sep 22, 2006
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I have a 530 that I just bought. It has a K582 Kohler in it. It has a Nelson muffler that each cylinder feeds into and then it exits on the center top of the engine comparment with a 90 degree elbow. The muffler and pipes that go from the cylinders to the muffler cannister are really hot. Seems like they are too hot. I checked the fuel adjustment screws. The engine manual says the main fuel screw is to be 3 turns out. When I got the machine it was a 4. Don't know if that would cause an increase in heat. THe manual says that would make it rich. Do these little machines just operate that hot? SHould I wrap the muffer and pipes? Thanks Chris
 
Oh, I forgot to add. I did check the air passages for leaves and debris around the engine. Its air cooled. So that's not an issue. Thanks Chris
 
Oh, I forgot to add. I did check the air passages for leaves and debris around the engine. Its air cooled. So that's not an issue. Thanks Chris
other than the heat it runs ok? sounds like a lean condition. could be crud in the carb......Jeff
 
other than the heat it runs ok? sounds like a lean condition. could be crud in the carb......Jeff
You say you think its hot, do you have a temperature gauge telling you this? or dies it just *feel* hot?
I know the muffler/exhaust piping sure does radiate a LOT of heat and wrapping them in insulating material will assist in the radiated heat.
And yes, if its lean it will get hot, i have actually had a rider mower that was set wrong and the muffler was actually glowing cherry red!
 
You say you think its hot, do you have a temperature gauge telling you this? or dies it just *feel* hot?
I know the muffler/exhaust piping sure does radiate a LOT of heat and wrapping them in insulating material will assist in the radiated heat.
And yes, if its lean it will get hot, i have actually had a rider mower that was set wrong and the muffler was actually glowing cherry red!
Late timing will put alot of heat in the exhaust. As for lean take a look at the spark plug after a hard run and see if its whitish, or brown. If the exhaust is not glowing red at night its may be just normal temp.
Ken
 
Late timing will put alot of heat in the exhaust. As for lean take a look at the spark plug after a hard run and see if its whitish, or brown. If the exhaust is not glowing red at night its may be just normal temp.
Ken
Thanks for the replies guys. The exhaust is what is hot. The engine cover you can lay a gloved hand on. The muffler and the pipes leading to the muffler will melt the glove on your hand. Heres what I did tonight: Checked the points gap. It was fine .020" Checked the intake/exhaust lash. It was find Checked the timing. It was right where the manual said it should be. But every once in awhile it would jump a head and then go right back to normal. Sprayed starting fluid around the intake/carb area to see if there were any leaks with the engine running. Engine speed never varied. Compresson on the one cylinder was 100 at starter cranking speed. I think the other cylinder has bad threads so I didn't remove it. It doesn't appear to be leaking (no gas/soot around the hole) The manual said to set the low idle fuel screw 1 1/4 turns out. Then turn it out (rich) until the engine speed descreased. Then in until it decreases again (lean) and then puit in inbetween. I tried turning it out (rich) and then engine just kept speeding up. I stopped at about 1 turn. Does that seem right? Any other suggestions. Maybe it just runs that hot, but I don't want to blow the engine if it's running lean. At idle, it will run idle speed for 3-4 seconds then bobble for a second then back to idle speed. Almost like it's starving for fuel. I guess the next step would be to pull the carb and see if a good cleaning helps. Sorry for the long post. Any help would be great. Thanks guys. Chris
 
Thanks for the replies guys. The exhaust is what is hot. The engine cover you can lay a gloved hand on. The muffler and the pipes leading to the muffler will melt the glove on your hand. Heres what I did tonight: Checked the points gap. It was fine .020" Checked the intake/exhaust lash. It was find Checked the timing. It was right where the manual said it should be. But every once in awhile it would jump a head and then go right back to normal. Sprayed starting fluid around the intake/carb area to see if there were any leaks with the engine running. Engine speed never varied. Compresson on the one cylinder was 100 at starter cranking speed. I think the other cylinder has bad threads so I didn't remove it. It doesn't appear to be leaking (no gas/soot around the hole) The manual said to set the low idle fuel screw 1 1/4 turns out. Then turn it out (rich) until the engine speed descreased. Then in until it decreases again (lean) and then puit in inbetween. I tried turning it out (rich) and then engine just kept speeding up. I stopped at about 1 turn. Does that seem right? Any other suggestions. Maybe it just runs that hot, but I don't want to blow the engine if it's running lean. At idle, it will run idle speed for 3-4 seconds then bobble for a second then back to idle speed. Almost like it's starving for fuel. I guess the next step would be to pull the carb and see if a good cleaning helps. Sorry for the long post. Any help would be great. Thanks guys. Chris
It is quite normal for a muffler to get 800 to 900 degrees, maybe more. I still say if it (muffer)ain't glowing in the dark it is just fine. Did the spark plug look white? (sign of lean burn)
Ken
 
It is quite normal for a muffler to get 800 to 900 degrees, maybe more. I still say if it (muffer)ain't glowing in the dark it is just fine. Did the spark plug look white? (sign of lean burn)
Ken
Spark plugs were a light brown. I think I might try wrapping the muffler and pipes and then just run it. Still may clean the carb just as a maintanence item. The guy I bought it from said it sat for quite a bit between uses. Thanks guys Chris
 
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