I recently began having problems with the t-bar lever seeming very sloppy but sticking and not releasing the valve unless I manually move it back. Also the bucket drops unless the lever is placed in an exact position . Now I have a tilt cylinder leaking which I assume is caused by the excess pressure from the valve issue. Other than the looseness of the lever the lift function works normally. I located a used control valve but after reading threads on this forum I am wondering if anyone has suggestion on how to proceed to tackle the problem with the sticking. There is only 1300 hours on the machine but after reading the Operator Manual I find I have not been very good on the maintenance other than oil changes. Thanks
3410 bucket tilt problem
- Thread starter 5brown1
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SkidRoe
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It kind of sounds to me that you may have a broken spool centering spring. It would typically be under a cover on the back side of the control block, held on by 2 screws.
I would also be checking the pivots in the t-bar linkage for wear or free play, as this could be adding to the problem.
Hope this helps - SR
I would also be checking the pivots in the t-bar linkage for wear or free play, as this could be adding to the problem.
Hope this helps - SR
Thanks for the information. I replaced the valve with a used one. I am sure you were correct about the spring. I ordered the parts to get the control tightened up. Now, after I replaced the valve the engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting fuel to the engine. I don't know if it is the fuel shut off solenoid but it does not seem to respond even though it is getting power when the ignition switch is on. I held it in what I assume is the open position but still did not get fuel to the injectors. I am going to try to get a tech here to diagnose the problem. Any suggestions?
Forgot to mention that I replaced the hydraulic fluid and filter as well as the fuel filter. I bled the fuel line and have fuel there.
SkidRoe
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Did you try cracking all of the injection lines at the injectors and cranking it unit you get fuel there? Some of these things can be a bear to get completely bled.
With regards to the shut-off solenoid, does it have 2 or three wires? Many have three: Ground, Pull, and Hold. Hold gets power as long as the ignition switch is on, Pull gets power either via a timed circuit or when the starter is energized.
Cheers - SR
I just opened one injection line and only cranked for a short period of time. The solenoid has three wires. I could not get any action from it and it is clearly visible. I ordered a new one today and it should be here by the end of the week.
I finally had a helper and was able to observe while the engine was cranked. The shut off solenoid did operate. There was a small amount of fuel at the injectors but with very little pressure. It is blowing black - gray smoke from the exhaust when being cranked. I assume black smoke is a sign of fuel. Should the fuel be spurting out of the line leading to the injectors? I checked the glow plug ohms and they all read about 3.4 ohms. I am assuming I need to subtract the initial ohms (2.4 I think) shown on the meter prior to the testing.
SkidRoe
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The only sure fire way to test a glow plug is working properly that I have found is to remove them and test them with a battery. You are looking to ensure that the complete element glows hot and not just the tip.
With the injector line cracked, you should get a spurt of fuel at the injector every time the cylinder comes up on compression. It may not look like much pressure, because there is no restriction from the injector when the line is not tightened down.
If you are getting black-grey smoke, that is a good sign. Test the glow plugs as I stated above. Replace any ones that don't test out good.
Also, in order to have a good starting diesel, you need a good battery and starter. You need to hit a critical RPM when cranking to make them start well. If you have been cranking on it quite a bit, your battery may need a good charging.
Hope this helps - SR
