2005 john deere 250,

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mrbb

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Jul 19, 2016
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spraying your electrical connections with good contact cleaner will help remove moisture and help clean them

using WD40, s stated also work, ONLY draw back is if you work in dusty environments, the WD40 will collect dust/dirt till it dries good

but also keep in mind that switches can also loose connection when there clips don;t hold them tightly together, which can happen over time from vibrations
so some times you need to really check connections for both clean terminals and a tight fit on plugs and connections

and if you have water in connections , as it freezes ti can push thing apart!, if they get exposed to water, not a bad idea to clean and again add dielectric grease to help keep water out!
 

YerHuckleberry

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Jan 22, 2024
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I was also asked to add my thoughts here. We've owned and operated CAT and CASE equipment only, so that's as far as my experience goes. Our CASE SV340B is fully-electronic, though, so intermittent electrical issues like the ones you've described are somewhat familiar to me.

If you have any possible moisture intrusion, your cold winter weather could definitely be the root cause of your problems. As suggested by others on this thread, I would do everything possible to heat up and dry out any circuitry [electrically] adjacent to your seat belt interlock. I'm sorry that I can't be of further assistance. All the best of luck to you.

EDIT: There was also a post in this thread that mentioned possible rodent damage. We live in a mountainous area that gets very cold during the winter. We've had many electrical issues related to rodent nesting over the years, so that's another possible cause.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Jul 16, 2015
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I went out to the loader started right up when i pulled the seat belt out and pluged it back in the seatbelt light went out bucket raised up nice like before. Works great.its probly water from rain and snow .i must have unpluged the seatbelt and plugged it back in 1,000 xs all week it was really cold here in ohio
Spray the seat belt slot with WD40 should help to drive out moisture.
 

piatt acres

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May 10, 2023
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former owner of jd 250 II, similar issues, intermittent at first then got worse over time. we found some bad wires when chasing seatbelt switch and seat switch, circumvented those and it worked for a while but came back. ended up replacing all those components which again helped for a while but then problem came back. in frustration i hit the control/console panel above and noticed that i could get problem to go away and come back. ended up to be that control board had a problem with a short, replaced it and all was well. seems like that is a common problem with them as you can find places to send them in to repair but my mechanic couldn't open it and attempt the fix without risking ruining it. new was the way to go.
 

brdgbldr

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This is the contact cleaner that was recommended to me by a Bobcat Tech:
WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray
 

Mustang Guy

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Can't help with Deere specifics, but my Mustang has an operator present switch under the seat and a separate switch in the seat belt retractor. These two permissives must be met before anything works after the parking brakes are switched off. My parking brakes are mechanical dogs that operate by gravity when there is no hydraulic pressure to the little release cylinders.
 

laurencen

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Oct 3, 2016
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223
the seat belt switch circuit is my guess, in mine when I sit in the seat the display lights up, it will not start unless the belt is fastened, if I undo the belt it locks out the control functions but it will drive, old school brake by lever not electronic, on mine if the seatbelt is not fastened it will not start, if I lift my rear off the seat it locks up until I undo the belt, get off the seat and start the cycle again
 

JACO

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Mar 21, 2022
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CHECK EVERY GROUND AND CONNECTIONS WD 40 IS YOUR FRIEND IN COLD AN WET CONDITIONS...I USE THAT STUFF ON EVERYTHING !
 

Tready

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Oct 31, 2022
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I have this 2005 john deere 250 ,and the seatbelt light ,and parking break light is on costently,but when you start it up ,it will move around with parking break on ,and the boom wont go up
You say that the machine moves with park brakes on? Is the machine driving through the park brake or it's not actually on, just the indicator? Trying to sort if it's a electrical or mechanical problem?
 

eelang

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Oct 7, 2023
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I'd diagnose the seat belt wiring circuit at the belt connector up to the head unit. you can jump the wires at seat belt and see if the light goes out. If it doesn't it chevk the rest of the circuit and it may even be a head panel internal electronic issue but I'd think the belt circuit is most likely the issue.
 

JC Machinery

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Mar 21, 2022
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I have this 2005 john deere 250 ,and the seatbelt light ,and parking break light is on costently,but when you start it up ,it will move around with parking break on ,and the boom wont go up
It has 2 sensors one in the seat bar and the other one under the seat, one of those are bad
 
OP
OP
G

geno marino

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Jan 25, 2024
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spraying your electrical connections with good contact cleaner will help remove moisture and help clean them

using WD40, s stated also work, ONLY draw back is if you work in dusty environments, the WD40 will collect dust/dirt till it dries good

but also keep in mind that switches can also loose connection when there clips don;t hold them tightly together, which can happen over time from vibrations
so some times you need to really check connections for both clean terminals and a tight fit on plugs and connections

and if you have water in connections , as it freezes ti can push thing apart!, if they get exposed to water, not a bad idea to clean and again add dielectric grease to help keep water out!
Hey thanks mrbb for all the good advice
 

AJ-17

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Joined
Feb 27, 2019
Messages
21
It sounds like everyone have put there two cents in. I agree it is electrical issue with seat switch somehow and some lockout solenoid.
Since I own a Thomas 1997, T133S, it has no electrical lock outs of any kind, no seatbelt now, no lockout with the parking brake bar. There never was any electrical lockouts on this machine. Only parking brake which was disconnected years ago, so machine can creep sometimes. I do feel for all of you that have machines that have all these electrical issues. Lots of posts almost every day about that.
Be safe everyone with your machine!
 

Firefighter

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Dec 31, 1969
Messages
167
sounds like alot of good info, definitely try n get the seat/ seat belt circuit to fuction and get the light to turn off,
i am assuming the bucket tilt doesnt work either, im not sure why u can drive the loader with the brakes on???
u may have a faulty instrument panel, check fuses n relays
 

akoyote

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Dec 3, 2022
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I'd look into bypassing that garbage, you'll just end up having more idiot problems for a safety feature designed for idiots. I'm not being a smart ass, this is the kind of sh*t manufactures love, except automotive cause recalls cost them money cause more idiots drive and run the government that can enforce replacement under law easier than offroad equipment. Just my 2 cents.
 

mg2361

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Mar 16, 2018
Messages
18
What is the voltage of your battery when the engine is running?

Check your grounds, especially the one on the block near the alternator. There was a product improvement program to address ground issues and the park brake was one of the issues to be addressed.

If the ground is good, and if you have all your inputs to the monitor from the seat switch, seat belt switch, cab door switch (if used) and the park brake switch, then the monitor may be defective.

If you remove the monitor, look into the center connector opening. In the opening there is the Q6 transistor (about a 1/4" square device). Make sure that is not melted or brown. If it is, the monitor is definitely bad.
 

wmodel1897

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Apr 19, 2015
Messages
21
I have another thought. In the top two positions in the fuse box the fuses look different. They are not fuses even though they look like them. They are diodes, they only allow the electricity to flow one way. If they are put in backwards or are bad then the computer will not allow some of the functions to work. Instead of the amps they just have arrows on the top. The arrows point in. I had a problem with a 318 I picked up. Someone had decided they were bad and had replaced them with fuses. Easy to check them, just use a multimeter. You should get no continuity one way and continuity the other.
 

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