2005 John Deere 240 Skidsteer's hard to start

[brettmaverick]

Hey guys, I live in Tucson and bought this skid steer used, and it's always been a bit cranky to start. It turns over fine, but it just doesn't fire. Give it a little shot of starting fluid and it fires right up and runs well. Turn it off for any reason and it will only start again with a little starting fluid. Before I get it running, I charge the battery fully so there's plenty of power to crank. Suggestions? Brett

 

[Tazza]

There are a few things that make disels cold blooded. Low compression is the main one, bad glow plugs is another, bad injectors can play a part, but you said it runs well when started so that is less likely.
Start by checking if you get power to the glow plugs when you go to start it, if you are and it's still hard to start, remove the glow plugs, hook them up to a battery with jumper wires and ensure they glow rite to the tip.
If they do, you will need a diesel compression tester. See what the comression is like, you should be at the high 400s in PSI for good starting

 

[brettmaverick]

There are a few things that make disels cold blooded. Low compression is the main one, bad glow plugs is another, bad injectors can play a part, but you said it runs well when started so that is less likely.
Start by checking if you get power to the glow plugs when you go to start it, if you are and it's still hard to start, remove the glow plugs, hook them up to a battery with jumper wires and ensure they glow rite to the tip.
If they do, you will need a diesel compression tester. See what the comression is like, you should be at the high 400s in PSI for good starting

I think it's a fuel issue, I've read about fuel lines that can let a little air in and bind things up. It runs well after it starts, strong smooth and reliable, with the exception of starting on it's own without the little starting fluid "Prime". I'd really like to be able to get her started, reliably, without opening up the back and pulling the side panel and air cleaner assembly. What would be the fuel system maintenance, parts changes and trouble shooting to start with? Thanks, Brett

 

[jerry]

I think it's a fuel issue, I've read about fuel lines that can let a little air in and bind things up. It runs well after it starts, strong smooth and reliable, with the exception of starting on it's own without the little starting fluid "Prime". I'd really like to be able to get her started, reliably, without opening up the back and pulling the side panel and air cleaner assembly. What would be the fuel system maintenance, parts changes and trouble shooting to start with? Thanks, Brett

Go with Tazza's suggestions first. It is the glow plugs. Also do not use the starting fluid or you do risk damage to the engine if it has not already been done. Easy to check the plugs out also.

 

[brettmaverick]

Go with Tazza's suggestions first. It is the glow plugs. Also do not use the starting fluid or you do risk damage to the engine if it has not already been done. Easy to check the plugs out also.

Ok, I'll check the glow plugs. Where would I find a compression tester for diesels? I've got one for gas engines, but not for diesel.

 

[antfarmer2]

Ok, I'll check the glow plugs. Where would I find a compression tester for diesels? I've got one for gas engines, but not for diesel.

If the glow plugs test out and your compression is good it could have a very small leak in the fuel line sucking air hard to find I would just replace all but if it has a bleeder valve make sure it is closed tight after bleeding They can vibrate loose that would be the cheapest easy fix if your lucky

 

[putland_22]

I also have this same issue on my 2003. Ive got a brand new motor installed in it and i tried out a new starter checked my glow plug everything and even when parked inside a heated shop it still takes for ever to start almost seems like theres a large draw or something on it. I tried a new battery and everything i just can't seem to figure it out. You almost have to crank it over for a good 30 seconds or so to get it to fire. Ive searched the fuel system and everything and i am starting to wonder if its maybe a injection pump as the injectors are fairly new too.

 

[Tazza]

I also have this same issue on my 2003. Ive got a brand new motor installed in it and i tried out a new starter checked my glow plug everything and even when parked inside a heated shop it still takes for ever to start almost seems like theres a large draw or something on it. I tried a new battery and everything i just can't seem to figure it out. You almost have to crank it over for a good 30 seconds or so to get it to fire. Ive searched the fuel system and everything and i am starting to wonder if its maybe a injection pump as the injectors are fairly new too.

You can get a tester off ebay, it will need to handle up to 500 PSI
When using a tester, ensure the fuel is off. If a cylinder inder test was to fire, it would destroy the tester.

 

[finn01]

I also have this same issue on my 2003. Ive got a brand new motor installed in it and i tried out a new starter checked my glow plug everything and even when parked inside a heated shop it still takes for ever to start almost seems like theres a large draw or something on it. I tried a new battery and everything i just can't seem to figure it out. You almost have to crank it over for a good 30 seconds or so to get it to fire. Ive searched the fuel system and everything and i am starting to wonder if its maybe a injection pump as the injectors are fairly new too.

The 240 uses a 179 cubic inch Deere wet sleeved (rebuildable) direct injection engine. It does not have (in the combustion chamber) glow plugs per se, although there is a grid heater in the intake manifold. Glow pligs are typically found on imported low cost Indirect Injection engines like kubotas and Izuzus. In a climate like Tuscon's, you would likely never need to use the manifold heater for starting unless the compression is very low due to stuck or worn piston rings, in which case you should also see blue smoke (running warm) and high oil consumption. For reference, my 240 starts reliably without the manifold heater when the temperature is in the teens in Upper Michigan, as long as the cranking speed is sufficient. As long as the power cylinder (pistons and rings) is in good shape, ie good compression, the most likely problem is air leaks in the fuel system which allow bleed down. Once the engine is started for he first time in a workday, it would then start normally if there is a small leak, until the engine is shut down for a time sufficient to allow air in the system again. Look for any sign of fuel weeping at the joints, especially in the rubber fuel return lines between the injectors and go from there. tusc