Hello to everyone I recently purchased a 1999 case 1840 with about 1900 hours in very good shape. The only things I can find wrong are some leaking hydraulic lines which I am having a hard time replacing as I can not get the fittings to unscrew on a few of them even when heated up with a torch. The thing I am worried about is breaking the fittings if I go after them with a set of breaker bars and crows foot. I should mention it looks like someone put them on with red thread locker why I have no idea seems like over kill. The ones I have replaced I put back together with Teflon tape which I hope should be fine and not seize up if needing to be replaced. By the way can anyone tell me am I able to lock the arms in the up position on this loader as there is one I will only be able to get at with them up. Have ordered the service manual but it's not here yet thanks for any replies and help.
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If they were sealed with loctite you will have a tough time.... I'd heat them up pretty warm, enough to get the loctite soft. Get a helper to hold pressure on the fitting trying to undo it. Get a shisel and strike the side of the nut, see if you can get it to shock off.
What are the fittings attached to? is it something you can replace it if it does indeed break?
As for teflon, if the fitting is in good shape, it needs no other sealing compound, be it teflon or loctite.
What are the fittings attached to? is it something you can replace it if it does indeed break?
As for teflon, if the fitting is in good shape, it needs no other sealing compound, be it teflon or loctite.
Yep got the ones the were stuck fittings were very bad shape used a set of crows feet and a couple of large breaker bars. New one went on fine no problems. I still need to replace a couple that require the arms to be locked in the up position might wait a couple more weeks till it warms up here a bit more before doing those. I assume the bar under the loader arm with the pin is used to lock the arms in the upright position???? This loader also has the universal quick attach plate but I don't think it a case as the other case quick attach plates look different than the one on my machine the holes in the pin do not match up with the holes in the bushings where the keeper pin goes in. looks like it's about 1/2 inch shorter than it needs to be talked to the local case dealer he said just put the pin in a drill press and drill the hole in the pin where I need it, is that about right since I can't figure out what manual quick tach plate is on the machine. And I had to hammer one of the pins back in yesterday while moving hay for the wife's horses as I noticed it was backing out of the bushing.If they were sealed with loctite you will have a tough time.... I'd heat them up pretty warm, enough to get the loctite soft. Get a helper to hold pressure on the fitting trying to undo it. Get a shisel and strike the side of the nut, see if you can get it to shock off.
What are the fittings attached to? is it something you can replace it if it does indeed break?
As for teflon, if the fitting is in good shape, it needs no other sealing compound, be it teflon or loctite.
You are right about locking the arms up. You can unpin the arm stop, let it fall to the cylinder while its down, get in the skid steer lift the loader up and the arm stop should go into place on its own. Remember to put the pin back into the arm stop so the arm can't lift out of the cylinder. You can also roll the cab forward about 3 or 4 feet. It takes a little bit of work but it gives you more room. I either rolled the cab forward or took out the radiator when I replaced hoses. If you want to find out how let me know. As for the quick attachment plate I'm not 100% what you mean. If you can take a picture of it and put it on photobucket.com you can post a link here and I should be able to see what your talking about. I'll take a shot at it anyway. I think your pin's on the quick attack that lock the bucket or attachment is round right??? If it is, your problem might be there is too much rust and junk on and around the locking pin. The pin maybe isn't going down all the way to lock into place. All you would have to do is unhook the lever assemble to the locking pin and use a punch to push it out the bottom. Clean the hole with wd-40 and use a grinder or wirebrush to clean the pin. Its up to you if you want to use grease or oil to lub the locking pin back up and put it together. If this is way off you'll have to let me know, I'll check this site a little more regular. Ihave actually broke both levers that lock the pins down. The pins where locked down. The older 1840 had smaller square pins they never had a problem locking down all the way but they would wear more and the bucket would be a little loose. Hope this helps.Yep got the ones the were stuck fittings were very bad shape used a set of crows feet and a couple of large breaker bars. New one went on fine no problems. I still need to replace a couple that require the arms to be locked in the up position might wait a couple more weeks till it warms up here a bit more before doing those. I assume the bar under the loader arm with the pin is used to lock the arms in the upright position???? This loader also has the universal quick attach plate but I don't think it a case as the other case quick attach plates look different than the one on my machine the holes in the pin do not match up with the holes in the bushings where the keeper pin goes in. looks like it's about 1/2 inch shorter than it needs to be talked to the local case dealer he said just put the pin in a drill press and drill the hole in the pin where I need it, is that about right since I can't figure out what manual quick tach plate is on the machine. And I had to hammer one of the pins back in yesterday while moving hay for the wife's horses as I noticed it was backing out of the bushing.
Thanks I will take some photos this weekend and post them.You are right about locking the arms up. You can unpin the arm stop, let it fall to the cylinder while its down, get in the skid steer lift the loader up and the arm stop should go into place on its own. Remember to put the pin back into the arm stop so the arm can't lift out of the cylinder. You can also roll the cab forward about 3 or 4 feet. It takes a little bit of work but it gives you more room. I either rolled the cab forward or took out the radiator when I replaced hoses. If you want to find out how let me know. As for the quick attachment plate I'm not 100% what you mean. If you can take a picture of it and put it on photobucket.com you can post a link here and I should be able to see what your talking about. I'll take a shot at it anyway. I think your pin's on the quick attack that lock the bucket or attachment is round right??? If it is, your problem might be there is too much rust and junk on and around the locking pin. The pin maybe isn't going down all the way to lock into place. All you would have to do is unhook the lever assemble to the locking pin and use a punch to push it out the bottom. Clean the hole with wd-40 and use a grinder or wirebrush to clean the pin. Its up to you if you want to use grease or oil to lub the locking pin back up and put it together. If this is way off you'll have to let me know, I'll check this site a little more regular. Ihave actually broke both levers that lock the pins down. The pins where locked down. The older 1840 had smaller square pins they never had a problem locking down all the way but they would wear more and the bucket would be a little loose. Hope this helps.
