1970's FORD 340 rebuild

[Maddogsmotorsports]

So I finally got the engine out of the garage. I set the engine into my small yard trailer and then backed it up to the skid steer and was able to slide it out and into place. Got it bolted down just before it got dark.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Well I got quite a bit done this week, but we have had a lot of rain so I have been fighting the weather trying to get things done.

So from the last post you can see I got it all bolted down but quickly found out that I had to unbolt the engine and slide it forward to be able to install the 1/2" bell housing plate the hydraulic pump mount to, as well as the hard coolant line that goes around the back and the bracket that holds the throttle linkage.

Installed the new fuel lines and fuel filter in place.

I also learned that when I set the timing with the distributer that my clocking was too far one way because the vacuum housing was hitting the cross member so I had to reset it so that it was clocked counter-clockwise so it cleared the cross member. Also installed the new spark plugs and wires.

Also got the header pipes and a brand new muffler installed. I got the muffler from John @ fordv4parts.com it bolted right up, I hope it wont be too loud but its going to be better than the two tiny mufflers it had before.

And finally I installed the radiator and all cooling hoses.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

so no pics but I made some more progress the past couple of days. So before I tried to start the engine I took the fuel line off and put it in a 20 coke bottle full of premium fuel so that I can make sure that the new fuel pump is working, I also pulled the distributer off and took a 6mm socket that I had to grind down so that it would fit in the hole and used a 1/4" extension and my cordless drill and ran the oil pump until oil ran freely from the rockers, once I was satisfied that the oil system was primed. I reinstalled the distributer.

Next I hooked up the battery and the new ignition switch and turned it over, did that a couple times with no pops, pulled one of the plugs and checked for spark and found out there was none. Went to Napa and got a new cap, rotor, points and condenser. Installed those and got spark!

Poured some gas down the carb and turned it over and got some pops but nothing close to it running, did that until the battery was almost drained. Called John at @ fordv4parts.com and told him I couldn't get it running and he asked me if I had tried adjusting the distributer left or right and to make sure that I had the spark plugs wires ran correctly.

Came home tonight and made sure the plug wires were correct and they were. Next I loosened the bolt on the distributer just enough that I could turn it by hand and turned it over. It took me a little bit but I found the sweet spot and it fired up. It would idle but if I tried to blip the throttle it would die. So took off the vacuum line from the advance on the distributer and plugged it with a golf tee, hooked up the timing light and fired it up.

I started to turn the distributer and the thing roared to life but I had to turn it off and adjust the govenor so that it was idling too fast. Did that and tried adjusting the timing but I was having trouble seeing the mark on the pulley. I got some pink finger nail paint and put it on the notch but I was still having trouble seeing the marks so I stopped for the night.

Going to have one of my boys help me tomorrow, they have way better sight than me, so hopefully I can get it set tomorrow and running good?

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

So I got the floor panel and brake pedal pad installed. Also got the hydraulic fluid radiator installed.

Was able to get the timing set now and idles really good but as soon as I try and give it gas it will die. After talking with John @ fordv4parts.com we determined that the carburetor main shaft has too much play which causes a major air leak so I have a new carb on order from him.

 

[Maddogsmotorsports]

Here is a small clip of the engine idling.

 

[U Name It]

Another thing I did while waiting for the machine work was to redo the brakes. I took the access cover off and found that master cylinder was gone? Took the brakes apart and cold tell right away that the wheel cylinders were toast, there was plenty of pad left on the shoes but they were soaked in grease because someone must of pumped a ton of grease through the wheel bearing!

Spent the next couple of nights scouring the internet for part numbers but could not find anything because its so old. So I decided to start looking at old ford brake diagrams on Summit and found a match, $29 for the shoe set and $13 each for the wheel cylinders. All the springs were still good but I needed one of the adjustable spreader thing at the bottom $5 at Autozone.

What is the part number for the brake wheel cylinders?

 

[RandomDude]

Any chance you got those part number on the brake shoes and cylinders handy?

 

[Bonez]

Following, and great info as Im getting a Ford from my FIL, not sure of madel yet but great info for parts and help.
Great job on your project build.

 

[jonesallu]

Same here! I just found this thread too. Wow, what fantastic work! Yes, John is about a 3 hour drive from me, he is quite the wealth of knowledge, and yes, very friendly. If I'm reading the posts correctly, you haven't posted in a while. Any updates?

Al Jones
Brookings, SD

 

[Bonez]

Got a little farter on the brakes, but ran into a few issues. First I had to source a 1/2-20 banjo bolt. None of the local big parts stores had one so I had to purchase online. Got it all put together and started by bench bleeding the master cylinder, then hooked up the brake lines and started to bleed them but notices that fluid was leaking out around one of the crush washers, so I tightened a little tighter, did that 2 more time to where I was afraid I might break the bolt. Took it apart and determined that the old banjo fitting had to large of an opening for the banjo bolt and crush washers to seal? Went back and ordered a new banjo fitting, should see it in a day or so. Also had to source a return spring for the brake pedal arm from ACE hardware too.

I know this is a little late but there is a secret to these banjo bolts, you tighten them down then give it a whack with a hammer them tighten it to specs. Hope this helps in the future for anyone with this issue.

 

[Bonez]

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