1845c starter click

[bluffcam]

This has been a problem with my 1845c since i got it at auction 2 years ago.
I have tried the usual fixes increasing in cost as the fix does not solve the problem.
first cleaned, wire brushed terminals and nuts on starter and battery and reattached.
then replaced battery
then replaced starter
then replaced battery isolation switch.
still clicking randomly when unit is trying to start.
my next part to replace was the ignition switch. then i ran across this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us
it looks like this is a somewhat common problem and is solved by bypassing the starter selonoid with a auto store one.
Has anyone heard of this problem on a 1845c? looks like it might be worth a try

 

[Tazza]

Thats probably the first thing i would have replaced. Thats just a relay, you put it in the engine bay, feed it power from the battery and the wire that goes to the starter from the key switch. Run the new wire from the relay to the terminal on the starter that you took the wire off.
In simple terms: a relay is an electrical switch, your starter has one built in but it draws a LOT more power than this one will. When you have a loose ground, bad connection or long wiring you have a lower current carrying ability to keep the relay in the starter energized. When there isn't enough power to sustain the magnetic field you hear the starter click as the plunger is released and grabbed.
Hopefully that will shed a little light on the subject. If the clicking is due to power loss in your wiring, a relay will fix the problem. These can be bought CHEAPLY at most auto stores, i think mine cost AUD $10 each.
That relay boasts 500A carrying capacity, seriously all you need is like 5A!!!! This relay will not replace the main one on the starter.

 

[bluffcam]

Thats probably the first thing i would have replaced. Thats just a relay, you put it in the engine bay, feed it power from the battery and the wire that goes to the starter from the key switch. Run the new wire from the relay to the terminal on the starter that you took the wire off.
In simple terms: a relay is an electrical switch, your starter has one built in but it draws a LOT more power than this one will. When you have a loose ground, bad connection or long wiring you have a lower current carrying ability to keep the relay in the starter energized. When there isn't enough power to sustain the magnetic field you hear the starter click as the plunger is released and grabbed.
Hopefully that will shed a little light on the subject. If the clicking is due to power loss in your wiring, a relay will fix the problem. These can be bought CHEAPLY at most auto stores, i think mine cost AUD $10 each.
That relay boasts 500A carrying capacity, seriously all you need is like 5A!!!! This relay will not replace the main one on the starter.

Thats good info, now i have to figure out how to wire it and what type of selonoid to use.
Is this what would be required?
http://www.maliburacing.com/starter_solenoid.html
thanks

 

[Tazza]

Thats good info, now i have to figure out how to wire it and what type of selonoid to use.
Is this what would be required?
http://www.maliburacing.com/starter_solenoid.html
thanks

Thats the exact same setup. Any small relay would do the job, remember you aren't switching the main power to the starter, you are just powering the solenoid on the starter so you really only need one that is rated as say 5 amps, but most automotive relays are rated at 30 or more amps. The larger the contact rating, in theory will make the relay last longer (to a point).
If you have any problems just give me a yell.

 

[feral_mamil]

1998 Case 1845c

Had the start issue as has been documented in several forums on the internet. I was going to go the starter solenoid relay route, but I couldn't pull the trigger without doing a wiring check. I looked in the usual, most obvious places first. The issue was behind the control panel up on the top right. There is a flaw in the wire routing from the factory - at least on my machine.

Up behind the control panel where the wire comes out of the loom, the stretch between loom end and key switch connection, the wiring routes past the steel frame pillar - it is a very taught stretch. My pillar was pretty sharp and over time (26 years) wore the insulation down due to friction. Wore it down, but no wires were exposed. My fuel pump fuel shutoff solenoid was on the fritz too. So, this would be a red (start), orange (solenoid) wire to hunt for. Both just didn't have enough slack to remain free of chaffing.

So, repaired the wires, ground the sharp edge, covered with some split rubber hose, and messed with the routing on the rear to give the run about an extra inch of wire so it wasn't so dang tight. Buttoned it all back up - worked as it has for years and should. I don't usually post this kind of stuff, but hopefully it helps the next guy.