case tr270 no start only clicks

[adamk1]

Just curious if anyone can offer any advice.

I have a case tr270 that I can start by jping the starter but when I try with the standard start it only clicks.

changed the 70 amp relay thinking that was it but nothing. when trying to start it the 30 amp fuse for the starter does not have power not that it has power any time. Any one know the process that leads to starting ? is it push button signal goes to computer then to the fuse to 30 amp relay to 70 amp relay ? or is it possible the seat or lap bar sensor would stop the machine from getting power to the fuse ?

 

[mrbb]

maybe try back tracking the wiring from starter to fuse box , fuse box to battery, and look for damaged wires, or likes??

 

[adamk1]

we started to do that and no signs of bad wires. wanted to try to narrow down the segment which is bad assuming it is not the

 

[adamk1]

sorry hit the wrong button.

We are trying to narrow down which segment it is (assuming it is a bad segment) which is why I was asking about the order that the signal would go. trying to eliminate if it was a seat or lap bar issue and bad relay or computer issue before we start attempting to tear open all the loom covering the rats nest of wiring.

appreciate the help so far.

 

[[email protected]]

I read some time ago that some have a switch in the safety bars that pull down in front of you. Not to sure what this unit has but it is possible that the switch in seat or in safety bars could be bad. However if you had it started using the starter only I wonder if that could bypass the whole safety system. Just food for thought.

 

[haymaker]

My 743 would click when I had a bad battery connection or ground somewhere but could be jumped to start.

 

[[email protected]]

My 743 would click when I had a bad battery connection or ground somewhere but could be jumped to start.

Also possible as stated above. Start there. Then see what take place.

 

[mrbb]

we started to do that and no signs of bad wires. wanted to try to narrow down the segment which is bad assuming it is not the

did you find any corrosion on the connections? as corrosion is a big issue with older machines IMO< it can get under the wires insulation too where you cannot see it
so in you find some on bare ends its possible its under the insulation too, and could be causing poor flow, just like a bad connection or ground can couple yrs ago I went thru something like this
replaced , battery, starter(3 of them) , relays, and ended up being corrosion in fuse box and crappy ground connection wires

 

[[email protected]]

did you find any corrosion on the connections? as corrosion is a big issue with older machines IMO< it can get under the wires insulation too where you cannot see it
so in you find some on bare ends its possible its under the insulation too, and could be causing poor flow, just like a bad connection or ground can couple yrs ago I went thru something like this
replaced , battery, starter(3 of them) , relays, and ended up being corrosion in fuse box and crappy ground connection wires

That is all true. Some years ago I was having issues with a Ford Granada. Starting it was a real issue. My dads car. I went from a new battery, starter, selinoid and all that good stuff. Lot of off colored words and finally one day an older tech told me to check the cables for just what you said above. As I ran my hand down the negative cable to the block I found a buldge. And wow twice the size of the cable diameter and no breaks in the coating. Odd I thought but I took it off and cut into it and it was all blue to the point there could not be any cable left. Not sure where Ford came up with that junk but as the old saying goes FORD = (Fix - Or - Repair - Daily.) Never did I come across that again but it can happen. Oh and after that was changed out - Varoom. So people consider all angles when it comes to no starts on old cars, trucks and impements. I spent 40 years on this stuff fixing diagnosis and repair and it never is a walk in the park. Thanks for triggering the past. Good Luck with this.

 

[MX727]

How old is the machine? There was a customer satisfaction program a couple of years ago on the wiring harness and main connector for these Case and NH models. I believe it gets loose and dirty. There is a fix though. Talk to your dealer about it before you start tearing stuff apart and pulling your hair out.

 

[adamk1]

machine is 2018 if I recall correctly. I will have to call the dealer and see if they have anything
but sadly I suspect they answer will be bring it in for a diagnosis which is money I am trying not to spend right now. just paid for a new valve body just north of 7k so I want to minimize the repair budget for a bit

 

[rusfarmiowa]

machine is 2018 if I recall correctly. I will have to call the dealer and see if they have anything
but sadly I suspect they answer will be bring it in for a diagnosis which is money I am trying not to spend right now. just paid for a new valve body just north of 7k so I want to minimize the repair budget for a bit

I have 13 tr270; found a bare spot on negative cable fixed it, charged battery, started right up today. Then machine shutdown after 3 minutes. Flashed fault code 1051- I could watch the volt meter falling .1 V every 2 seconds.
What should I do

 

[haymaker]

No Idea what that code is. Did you call a dealer to ask or look in the manual? Really should know what the code means.
That said, my best guess is it is not charging for whatever reason.
You could see how much voltage is coming out of the alternator with your meter. If you have about 14 volts,
find out what the code is.
In the mean time, recharge the battery and see if it repeats.
If it does it probably confirms the battery is either not holding a charge or the charging system is not working as it should.
You can get the battery load tested at an auto parts store.

 

[06Ram3500]

Just curious if anyone can offer any advice.

I have a case tr270 that I can start by jping the starter but when I try with the standard start it only clicks.

changed the 70 amp relay thinking that was it but nothing. when trying to start it the 30 amp fuse for the starter does not have power not that it has power any time. Any one know the process that leads to starting ? is it push button signal goes to computer then to the fuse to 30 amp relay to 70 amp relay ? or is it possible the seat or lap bar sensor would stop the machine from getting power to the fuse ?

Any codes?

 

[rusfarmiowa]

No Idea what that code is. Did you call a dealer to ask or look in the manual? Really should know what the code means.
That said, my best guess is it is not charging for whatever reason.
You could see how much voltage is coming out of the alternator with your meter. If you have about 14 volts,
find out what the code is.
In the mean time, recharge the battery and see if it repeats.
If it does it probably confirms the battery is either not holding a charge or the charging system is not working as it should.
You can get the battery load tested at an auto parts store.

TR270
It seems as though so have a dead short in the charging system. This same problem happened a year ago however then I never received a code. Now I got one-1051.
Titan machinery looked it over and couldn't find an issue last year.
Should I try to cleaning all the ground connections between the components and the frame?

 

[rusfarmiowa]

TR270
It seems as though so have a dead short in the charging system. This same problem happened a year ago however then I never received a code. Now I got one-1051.
Titan machinery looked it over and couldn't find an issue last year.
Should I try to cleaning all the ground connections between the components and the frame?

Got this off of the net to explain the code-
1051 No CAN Communication With Engine Controller. Amber warning. The first thing you want to check on this is testing for power on both sides of each one of your fuses with your voltage tester replacing any fuse with power only on one side. This will also tell you if there is a loss of power before the fuse panel.

 

[haymaker]

Pull each fuse as you go and check for continuity individually. Make sure you have no corrosion on the blades as you put them back in and that they fit properly. Die electric grease is a good idea when inserting them back into the fuse box.
After testing the fuses I would definitely clean every ground and use a bit of die electric grease to help provide contact and prevent corrosion. It is cheaper than buying parts you don't need.
As you clean ground attachments be aware that cables can be bad up into the insulation without looking bad. Any bulges, flat spots, or wrinkled insulation should be investigated as you go.
Electrical problems are or should be a process of elimination situation starting with the least costly working your way up to more expensive options if you don't find anything.
Remember, the more people you talk about your problem to the more likely you will find someone that had a similar issue, even if it was on a different machine.
I just hope more will chime in here to give other opinions and options.

 

[dfb]

Do you have a wiring diagram you can share for the starter circuit?

 

[rusfarmiowa]

Do you have a wiring diagram you can share for the starter circuit?

No. I do not.

 

[Grandpa Chuckie]

I agree with most commenters here, corrosion. Here in NM, our soil is alkaline, and moisture with alkalinity and copper is invitation for corrosion. I have had similar "click" no start issues and found terminal to contact corrosion. Most times you don't see it as it is under the connector, especially the negative battery connection to chassis/engine. Also, check the terminal to wire connection. Dirt/dust gets in cracks/connections and then moisture activates the corrosion.