Kickstand954
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Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
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Not a problem. After searching for info on this it could be a bad seat safety switch or if it has this, a saftey bar switch and even a seat belt switch. Otherwise if this is a hydraulic Release using the switch to disengage it the locking actuator may not be seeing enough pressure to hold the brake lock out. If that is the case due to rust or low pressure you will need to see if there is a manual release of some kind. Best thing to do now is to find out what this machine has. Dealer or service shop may help you with that. I mentioned the frozen parts due to my Location which is now half of what your temp is. And it is snowing big time. Keep us all posted if you can with any results.
ByggareBobby
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Yes I believe so. Skid steers use hydraulic motors to drive the tracks. If the machine is forced to move while the motors are not operational, the hydraulic fluid may not circulate properly, potentially causing damage to seals, valves, or even the motors. If the drive motors are engaged but not moving, forcing the machine could damage the planetary gears, sprockets, or final drive components. Dragging or forcing movement can cause unnecessary wear or misalignment of the tracks, rollers, and idlers. Many skid steers have internal parking brakes that engage when the machine is turned off or not moving. Forcing the machine could damage these brake components.
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I agree things do happen if over done. I think the reason for all this was to attempt to get the auto park control to release. Just a push pull while trying to release any mechanical device sometimes works. But a long drag not always a good idea. I think this mechanical/Electric lock is stuck locked. How it may work is some hydraulic pressure at around 300 psi is forced into this lock to get it to release so you can move the unit. How and where I don't know. While the machine is running that pressure holds that lock in the unlocked position. Machine off it releases the lock to lock up why all that was done to a machine that move dirt is beyond me. Tracks don't free wheel to easily. If it was my unit I would disable it. To late now. So it could be the pressure is to low to release it. Or it is damaged failed and stuck in the locked position. Some have a manual release and I would go find that out before making a mess of it. That said I don't know any more on that and I am shooting from the hip. So what ever is found out I hope this lady shares that as well. Good Luck me lady!
Do you have anything hooked up to the auxiliary hydraulics. Check if you have a switch for the auxiliary and is it on or off. If your boom and bucket work raise boom and tilt bucked straight down and then push boom down that should tell you if it is frozen down. With pressure on boom try to move it backwards by using the bucket.
Kickstand954
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- Feb 25, 2025
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ITS FIXED!!!!!
First I want to say thank you to everyone who has given advice. We tried alot of different suggestions to no avail but it ended up being simple. However, reading your post has helped me learn so much more about working on my machine. This is an amazing group thank you!!!!
So due to it being in the woods I guess a mouse or chipmunk got up under the seat and back under even further and chewed a wire into. My brother in law was able to wiggle in there and find it. It is now out of the woods and where it's suppose to be!
Again I can't thank you all enough for taking the time to help me! Very much appreciated!!! Now.... let's do some work
First I want to say thank you to everyone who has given advice. We tried alot of different suggestions to no avail but it ended up being simple. However, reading your post has helped me learn so much more about working on my machine. This is an amazing group thank you!!!!
So due to it being in the woods I guess a mouse or chipmunk got up under the seat and back under even further and chewed a wire into. My brother in law was able to wiggle in there and find it. It is now out of the woods and where it's suppose to be!
Again I can't thank you all enough for taking the time to help me! Very much appreciated!!! Now.... let's do some work
[email protected]
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- Jan 27, 2024
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ITS FIXED!!!!!
First I want to say thank you to everyone who has given advice. We tried alot of different suggestions to no avail but it ended up being simple. However, reading your post has helped me learn so much more about working on my machine. This is an amazing group thank you!!!!
So due to it being in the woods I guess a mouse or chipmunk got up under the seat and back under even further and chewed a wire into. My brother in law was able to wiggle in there and find it. It is now out of the woods and where it's suppose to be!
Again I can't thank you all enough for taking the time to help me! Very much appreciated!!! Now.... let's do some work
[email protected]
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Your Welcome. Was the wires going to the pressure switch? Or something else? You stuck with it so that's good. I use dryer sheets during winter and it seems to work or who knows. I stick them under the seat, the floor boards and places these rodent like to hide. They don't like it so it was said so I have done it for some years now. Glad it worked out.
glad you got things fixed
mice can sure be very costly at times, and a pain to deal with, have had my share of them chewing wires on things over the yrs, sop know the pains all too well!
I Never had luck with using dryer sheets(many do though), but I seem to have better l luck with adding bags of moth balls
I keep some in the cab and under floor boards, and in engine bay
I also, leave mice bait in same like places, close any place I think they can in at the easiest, so first thing they find is bait!
(but away from bags of moth balls)
hoping this way if any DO get in to things, they eat that stuff first!, and well, die before they do real damage!
another thing is try to park machine away from any food, if possible
as mice follow there noses to food then seek close places to move into for safety, and machines seem to be something they like to get into for this!
Mice do dislike sounds, I know many guys that have indoor storage as an option, leave a radio on, and they swear it keeps the away, or helps a lot!
mice can sure be very costly at times, and a pain to deal with, have had my share of them chewing wires on things over the yrs, sop know the pains all too well!
I Never had luck with using dryer sheets(many do though), but I seem to have better l luck with adding bags of moth balls
I keep some in the cab and under floor boards, and in engine bay
I also, leave mice bait in same like places, close any place I think they can in at the easiest, so first thing they find is bait!
(but away from bags of moth balls)
hoping this way if any DO get in to things, they eat that stuff first!, and well, die before they do real damage!
another thing is try to park machine away from any food, if possible
as mice follow there noses to food then seek close places to move into for safety, and machines seem to be something they like to get into for this!
Mice do dislike sounds, I know many guys that have indoor storage as an option, leave a radio on, and they swear it keeps the away, or helps a lot!
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Thanks for the tips and I now have more to try. Radio, Moth balls and some bait. I have also heard placing a small cup of soda next to Instant potato's works well. They heat the potatoe and drink the soda the little wire eaters then blow up or choke when the potatos swell up. Never tried that due to winter weather. Another good thing is the water or mix of RV fluid with the bucket and can that holds the peanut butter Rod through can and thru the top edge of the bucket The can spins on that rod and the mice go for the peanut butter then end up in the fluid and die when they fall in. Have not tried that either but may now that the weather is warming up. So the way I found it to work was the dryer sheets they do not like them but they have to be changed out all the time. Every three months but they are a cheap method. So far it has worked for me. Easier and so on. Good Day! Folks.
there are a ton of home made things folks use to try and kill or get rid of mice
some are made to be more pet safe than others like the potato deal you stated
what I seen and even used over the yrs however was, instant mashed potato's, or corn meal or even just baking soda, you mix this stuff in something to lure them in and or help hide the taste of the baking soda, and then after they consume it, it more or less causes gas which they cannot release and such die
and then if a critter later on finds the mouse and eats it(or the bait) it won't harm them, as using poison bait might and can!
I do use things like this, but only in places I worry about critters maybe getting into things, and well, in places I know mice live
My issue with making some types of baits is, , the bait itself starts to attract mice, and honestly that's sort of like causing the problem over just trying to keep them out all together!
yes it might kills many, but at same time you luring them into your area's from having them follow there nose to a food source, and then others follow there scent to things and its now a mapped out trail for others to find and follow!
thats again why IF I do add bait to a machine, I try and pl;ace it where the access points are the easiest, so they find it fst and eat it before going on
I am also, the same deal when having bait in any building, I keep it as close to places they can get in, cracks in floors, or spaces where they can get under doors or likes
this way should any get in, they find bait fast and don't be traveling all over buildings looking for food
I also like the 5 gallon bucket traps, where they fall in and cannot get out, in warm weather I add a few inches of water so they drown and replace as needed Things will smell bad in hot weather fast thought, friends I know use used cooking oil to help tame spells as it preserves them, yet they still drown,
on the underside of these bucket traps, I HOT glue seeds to things, this way they can smell the seeds, yet never get to it, and the trap stays baited for a long time, over having to add bait to keep luring them in!
Lots of ways to get mice there not that hard, but they breed way too fast
I know they sell special food that will sterilize them, and I like that idea, but the stuff is crazy costly,
I wish someone would sell it for a cheaper price, as that honestly would be a great way to get rid of many of them in an area, and mice/rats are honestly a huge issue in many places, a shame, they don;t sell it for prices folks can afford, I would think it would save lives and health issues too , as mice/rats can and do cause both!
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Good points. I was going to use the bucket pool again and now wonder if it will lure more in to the spot I park it. I did a cleaning of the garage I park it in. Then put out the dryer sheets etc. I saw no sign of them for a year. And that means I basically eliminated the smell or lure to the inside. I hate the idea of poision due to the many eagles and other critters that may eat them for lunch. Finding the entrys is a good idea and I know now where that is but cannot find a good cure. Yet. Isn't it fun!
I have used spray foam to stop entry into several buildings, I like to add steel mesh in holes before adding the foam too, this way if they do try to cheew thru, the metal slows or stops them
but its not easy to plug every crack, it really helps if you start with a NEW empty building, HAHA
but it can work
I have a few 12x20 f sheds I keep corn and sunflower seeds in( over a ton of each or more ) when I got them new I made a special effort to fill in every possibly entry, any gaps no matter how small for caulking or spray foam, some of these sheds are 15+ yrs old and still critter tight, minus, twice I had car[enter ants get in two of them, but some quick spraying solved that, and no issues since(I do treat them now yearly though for ants and other things)
even the hunting camp I belong to, for years we had terrible issues with mice getting in , in the off season
we gutted the inside to remodel it, and again sealed everything up, and stay on top of anything that opens up(under door gaps or likes) and its been moue free since
now if we could keep spiders out from making webs in the off season , be even better!
we do spray for them , but they still get into some places
but keeping mice out of big building with LOTS of access, is a challenge for sure, , it is possible, but at some point the costs and time to do, might not be worth it!
or if has to have open bays/doors, ell??
I have also found that the cleaner you keep border around buildings the less they want to enter
all the more so if borders are paved or cemented , there not too found of being in the open outside I find!
making your property more appealing to critters that eat mice can help, too
Owl's are awesome at this
Hawkerpilot05
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I would add instead of steel wool, use copper mesh. You can order it from any pest control company. Copper mesh supposedly to a mouse is like a human biting on aluminum foil. Also, it doesn't rust and stain like steel wool. It works good.
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I agree with all you just said. Cleaning in and out and inspecting the walls inside another way fill the cracks etc. It would take me a year or so. All the junk collected and so on. But that is worth the try. I heard of the copper and stainless steelwool. My point of entry is the garage door rubber edge on one corner. Chewed a hole into it and they use it. So to get that first is a starting point. Thanks for sharing some ideas it does help.
